Category Archives: Uncategorized

Rain Shadow

Cheesewring
2nd August 2012

Agent Provocateur – F7b – Worked
Potential Energy – F6c+ – Worked

The Cheesewring is not the first place that springs to mind when you are considering finding a crag on a showery day, but the secret is to make sure you know which direction the wind is coming from.

The Agent Provocateur wall faces North East, so if the wind is from the South West it blows any rain straight over the slightly overhanging wall and keeps it dry. And this was the case, with only the belayer getting a bit damp.

I clipped a load of drawers on all the bolts and we pre clipped  the rope on Agent Provocateur as a start, which is an alternate start for Potential Energy. The beginning of this is tough and takes time to work out (particularly if you’re not used to this grade).

We gradually worked our way up. I can now link the whole route with the exception of the last move onto the shelf. I intend to try and lead it next time there and also have a crack at Double Agent a more realistic finsh than that of AP.

Tom and Dave had fun on their first experience of hard sports routes spending the required amount of air time. It’s strange how what seems impossible at first gradually becomes a posibility as you find the little holds and foot placements.

I find the whole exercise good practice and it definitely improves your climbing. There are loads of other routes there for us to explore, so I imagine we’ll be back shortly to try again.

Maybe next time I’ll actually get to climb at the Cheesewring in dry sunny weather.

 

A late lunch

12th April 2012

Black Head

Spriggans Chimney – VS 4c – Lead
Archangel – HVS 5a – Lead

I love climbing at Black Head. There’s something about the place that just makes you happy. It’s a hidden amphitheatre with turqoise sea and stunning vista’s across the bay. I never tire of the walk in and on this occasion we managed to get quite a bit closer thanks to a friendly local who told us where to park.

Traversing to the abseil point above Sprigans Chimney

Dave and I were looking to have a go at Archangel, a climb Dave had tagged last time we were there. But the tide was high for the morning so we took on pitch 2 of Spriggans Chimney. To be honest, pitch 2 is the best pitch starting with a steep crack and leading into a corner bypassing a large overhang. As usual it took me a little while to get going, the bottom crack being a little akward with footholds that dont inspire confidence. But the top moves are fun and the traverse across the top of the overhang is exposed and exciting.

Top of Sprigans Chimney

We decided to push straight on with Archangel. A solo down Black Dyke and we were at the belay. This route is superb. Great climbing up the striking corner crack gets you to a small roof. Traverse right here across the face in a great position to find the first belay. Not hard for the grade, but the crux requires good footwork and commitment.

Ian on Pitch 1 Archangel

The top half is fairly easy climbing, disjointed, but fun with strange rock and peculiar moves. By this time we had lost all track of time and we ended up having lunch at 6p.m.! This probably accounts for why I felt rubbish for the next couple of hours.

Belay at the trop of pitch 1 Archangel

Dave however was still raring to go and tackled Rebel Yell, the E2 which goes up the steep headwall. Small holds and balancy moves put him to the test, but he wasnt found wanting, and made it up with a big smile on his face.

Fortunately we didnt have the long walk out. My blood sugar levels were still grumbling so I probably would have struggled. And so ended a fantastic day out. Only Rebel Yell to return to now, which I fancy leading at some point.