Tag Archives: Limpet Slab

Ochre’s my favorite colour

Bosigran / Halldrine Cove
10th August 2012

Ochre Slab 1 – VS 5a – Alt lead (P2)
Ding – VS 4c – Alt Lead (P2)
Limpet Slab – V Diff – Second

On occasions the Ochre Slab area of Bosi is almost like a seperate venue to the main cliff. A large gulley seperates it from Raven Wall and whilst the well known multi pitch routes around the Doorpost area can be busy, this area has the feeling of seclusion.

Looking out towards Commando Ridge

And it was like that on this day. I’d earmarked Paragon initially, but OSR1 was clear and I’d always wanted to have a crack at the wild chimney on its final pitch.

With Dave and Tom tackling the classic Black Slab we scrambled our way across to the start via some soloing. OSR1 has two completely contrasting pitches. The first is all about finesse with a crux that involves traversing blind around the arete on the right. Pro’s ok but it’s a tricky move and you have to have faith that there is something there for your feet and hands. Chris made it look easy, finding the invisible holds and foot placements and looking like he was thoroughly enjoying himself. The whole line flows very nicely and although the top slab is bold, the climbing is not tough as you get higher.

Dave on Black Slab

The chimney is entirely different. Still requiring a bit of faith that holds will come, it’s all about pulling up into the space and then searching out the jugs. My first attempts, while Tom was belaying directly below were abandoned on account of my landing on his head if I fell. After a nervous couple of minutes I hauled up and ‘behold’ it all becomes clear how its done. Just have faith!

Dave leading Ochre Slab Route 2

Chris and I moved onto Ding while Tom and Dave went for OSR2 a fitting companion to our previous route and a brilliant climb as well. Chris got the first pitch of Ding which to be honest is the best one. He remarked later how all the climbs on this day seemed to flow and this is particularly the case with Ding. It follows a superb line up the face with a series of hard moves.

Ian demonstrating how not to chimney

My ventures on the second pitch once again exposed my failings on chimneys. Still, I had fun and the final swing out on the overhang (we were off route by this time, probably on Dong) capped two amazing routes. Big smiles all around then and only one course of action…..

To the Cove for a swim!!!!

and jump!

Having cooled off nicely on what was a baker of a day we finished on two side by side routes at Halldrine Cove, which Dave and Tom led. Contrasting, mine which Tom led, was an exposed arete and Chris’ which Dave led was an akward chimney. Both done really well by their respective leaders.

Dave and Tom leading at Halldrine

Tom and Dave are coming on really fast with their leading. I remenisced with Chris on the fact that it took a couple of years for us to get to the same stage that they are at after a few months. The big difference I suppose is that Chris and I had to learn everything for ourselves and we had no one to push us. Didnt stop us having fun though and this year we’re checking out E1’s so we got there in the end.

Chris on Shrimpet

Oh Yes! Nearly forgot about the encore. A pod of Risso’s Dolphins appeared literally as we finished the day. Could it get better. Yes. A stop for a beer at Zennor capped what was a truly memorable day.

Tom checking out the dolphins off Halldrine