I love Porthguarnon. Not sure what it is about the place, but the climbing always feels great, the rock positive and invariably its a cracking day. And I’ve yet to tackle some of the 2 and 3 star climbs.
Throttle had yet to climb on granite, so this seemed as good a place as any for an introduction. The boulder hop in is so much fun. You can go a number of different lines, either at sea level or via a ledge system about 20ft further up. Both have tricky little sections, but ultimately they’re not too hard as long as you keep your cool. Part of the fun of Porthguarnon for me is the exploration.
Iron Bells is your benchmark corner climb. Nice laybacking, with good pro and no moves that are too difficult. It even throws in a small overhang to keep you interested. Such lovely climbing. We put in a mid way belay so that I could keep an eye on Throttle, but unfortunately this proved to be an uncomfortable half hour for him, as I finished off the climb and he had to hang in the belay. So an early intro into multi-pitch climbing really haha.
To cap it all we lost one of our belay devices to Huey, so we left satisfied with the one route for the slightly arduous walk back to Penberth (but it is incredibly beautiful as well.
Should’ve gone to specsavers – VS 4b – Alt Lead Ghan Fishing – V Diff – Second The Womb Tomb – V Diff – Second Pilot’s Song – VS 4c – Lead
Herding frog’s! Our Via Ferrata team is proving a bit tricky to co-ordinate atm. This was meant to be a test run for the camping with a bit of climbing thrown in. In the end it was really a climbing trip which suits me and turned out to be great fun.
Friday was a return to Predannack. I was determined to find out where the bloody Intermediate area was. Turns out it was staring me in the face all along. The guidebook description is fairy poor really. It references a Zawn, but in truth it’s just the face at the bottom of the ramp in beginners area. Add to that, the fact the route descriptions are pretty sketchy as well, accounts for why there have been so few recorded ascents here. If I’m honest though, sometimes having to work hard to find a climb is all part of the fun of exploring a crag. I sometimes you come across a gem by accident as a result.
Should’ve gone to Specsavers is an ok route, but really the entire climb boils down to breaking through the overhang. This is exciting and exposed, but is over very quickly once you commit. It took me a while to pluck up courage to go, but once you do its fine. Dave and Chris came through with out any dawdling. The route is a bit ‘unsatisfying’, but the other two on this face look quite tasty as well, so I’ll give these a go next time.
A fairly long hike over to Tasmania Zawn let us on Gawn Fishing, a climb I’ve done before but one which is always enjoyable. Described as an adventurous V Diff like a mountain route it runs diagonally across the wall, finishing up a shute of sorts. I know Dave loved it, especially as he got a chance to lead. It was a good finish to the day, before retiring to Henry’s Campsite.
And that is a strange, eclectic place. A warren of hedges, plants and drives which makes up what amounts to a secret garden. It is a bit ‘hippy’ but really enjoable. I would recommend it to anyone camping down that way.
Day 2 was Pen Olver, with Mike joining me and Chris. It was a trip down memory lane in a way. Been a while since I was here, and I’ve done a fair few of the routes. But I got a chance to bag a new one. One that I’m surprised I’d not done, because it is the obvious line up the pinnacle. Pilots song is reasonably straight forward for a VS with the crux being well protected and obvious. Its getting off that can be fluttery. Especially if you are the last to downclimb with no rope. Just take it steady and watch your feet.
Of course we had to do Womb Tomb for Mike’s benefit. What a bizarre but fun climb. Dieting helps in getting to the start. From there its head up into the gloom and be prepared to twist a bit. Climbing gives us so many moments of fun and entertainment. When you come across a route like this, it will send you away with the biggest smile on your face. One of those routes you never forget. Unless you’re Chris of course.
Stormy Weather – HVS 5a – Lead Sunday Bloody Sunday – E2 5c – Second Wreckers Slab – VS 4b – Alt Lead
Cornakey Cliff is not an easy ramble in. In fact its a pretty hard slog from Morewenstow Tea Rooms. But it is worth the effort. With going away so close upon me, I was thinking that a relatively relaxed day was in order. Of course stupidly I didnt factor in Joe. And the location should have screamed ‘adventure’ at me.
So it was my first proper HVS lead of the season, followed by an E2 and then a crumbling, run out VS to finish. Nice and relaxed.
Stormy Weather is just brilliant. I t steepens as it gets hight. Pro starts off fiddly and gets better. The perfect way around. It took a few moves before I got my head properly in the game, but then the added fitness from my hours at the wall kicked in and I thoroughly enjoyed myself. Even placing pro mid crux. Just shows how strength can be a bonus.
Joe’s E2 was a fitting partner. Much more airy lower down with a poorly protected traverse. As it gets higher you need to work hard on your foot placements. Everything is there, but it needs a bit of thought. Joe made an excellent job on the lead. Looks like he’s going to carry on right from where he left off. I can foresee some brilliant routes ahead.
We had left our bags near the top of the descent. A good idea, but remember to take water. Thanks to Joe and his fitness for sorting this one out.. This meant we could climb out on Wreckers Slab which tops out right at the top of the cliff. No need to drop back down, unless you stupidly throw a set of nuts off the second pitch! The climbing on Wreckers is steady but with spaced gear. 4b is about right, but you need a steady head on some sections as you move a long way above your gear. I loved it. Adventure at its best and would recommend this to anyone who is competant at VS. Pitch 1 is the run out one, although the final section gives it a run for its money. P2 is just great climbing with regular good gear.
What a day. A good lead into summer and a chance to test myself on some challenging climbs. Will be back up to visit Joe soon methinks.
With my confidence overflowing due to a miraculous washing machine repair job, this was a day to check out Sea Fury, a tough HVS or E1 depending on who’s climbing it. I’d not really looked at it properly before and unfortunately the intimidation factor got me on this occasion, but it looks so good from below it will be one for a little later in the year.
Sea Fury
Chris picked out Helmet Ridge Direct for his route. From below it does what many a route does. It looked straight forward. But reality led him into a route with a number of mini crux’s, each of which was awkward and challenging. Maybe worth a little more than HS imo. The adjacent climbs look equally as tough
Dave on Helmet Ridge Direct
Little Cracker was exactly that. A little cracker. A surprising find. After all the times I’ve been here I was really surprised I’d not done this before. It wasnt Sea Fury but it was a good consolation.
Meteor – VS 4b – Lead Three Tiers (Variation Finish) – HVS 5b – Lead
If I’m honest, my target for this day was Kafka’s Wound, an HVS in the Micronut Wall area of Green Lanes Cliff. However the tide was still a bit full, so we returned to the Cull area.
Kafka’s Wound
I’m still struggling with moving up the grades. Confidence really, but time at the wall has helped me trust my endurance and strength, so jumping in at VS seemed ok.
Dave about to start Comet
Comet is a climb which gradually gets harder, culminating in a steep top wall with dubious rock and nervy gear. Its a great climb to get your head in the game and Dave and me were ready to up the anti.
Dave on the middle tier of Three Tiers
Three Tiers is just that. A blocky but easy bottom tier which we solo’d. Followed by a steep wall with small holds and foot placements and little gear. Followed by a steep, slightly thuggy headwall which just completes a challenging overall climb.
Dave on the upper tier headwall of Three Tiers
Finding gear on the second tier was a real mission. I ended up with a shocking cam and a solid micronut in a split which didn’t look like it would last long under load. Still I didn’t need it, but the climbing is technical and thoughtful. I loved it. Dave also had the biggest smile when he topped out. And its testament to how much he’s come along since getting back into climbing, that he got up an HVS. And 5b no less!
Green Lanes Cliff area
Meanwhile Chris and Tom were also pushing, with Chris getting on Meteor as well and providing a very vocal audience for Dave while he climbed Three Tiers.
Carn Boel (Terrace) Four Directions – Severe 4b – Lead Carn Boel Cleft – V Diff – Solo
I really am impressed with how easy the Lands End facility make getting a locals permit for parking. It is a welcome change from those rip off bastards at Porthgwarra who are charging £8.50 a day! Disgraceful really for winter parking.
I know LE’s a tourist attraction, knocked by many, but it has always had its own charm and I have always enjoyed going there. Not least because it is situated on one of the most stunning bits of coast in the UK. The walk in always sets the mood and despite the cold Tom, Chris and me were looking forward to getting on the rock.
I had tried Four Directions with Barry a while back and backed off for a number of reasons. The main one being that it felt quite tough and it was one of Barry’s first outings. Strangely, it was even tougher when your fingers and toes were numb and you are dressed up to the nines.
So it was on with the fannying around getting gear in and trying to sort the ropes out. The crux is about 8 meters up, above a ledge. Its a overhang and to get through it you have to move up left and into a short v groove. The problem is that holds run out as you get into the steeper area, not something you’d expect on a severe. But the cold definitely played a part. If I’m honest I couldnt tell if there were better holds. Once I latched something I had to trust I could hold it because my fingers were so cold. There’s also an interesting wall above the overhang with small foot placements and dubious looking rock. Oh yeh, and the gear goes thin.
Not selling it really am I. Strangely though I did enjoy it. I was also relieved when both Tom and Chris found it hard. It wasnt just me being a pansy.
The cleft was a great ending to the session. Squeezing between trapped boulders and bridging up the narrow cave like recess is so much fun. You emerge back into the light through a narrow opening in the roof. Straight forward as a solo, but dont fall off. You’d rattle on the way down.
I last climbed Pegasus in March 2007, 16 years ago. And prior to that and unrecorded in my logbook, I climbed it with Tony H and Bart on what was probably the most adventurous climb I had ever done up to that point.
So returning with Barry, who would be in the same stage of his climbing initiation as I was, was very apt. A bitterly cold day, we managed to find a spot of warmth and sunshine, at least for part of the day. Having checked out Panda buttress and declined, the tide was low enough and the swell small enough to get on Pegasus.
I always find the first pitch more difficult that the technical grade suggests. I think its because it is nearly always a bit greasy and wet. It makes the move out of the top of the groove just that bit insecure. But I did remember the ‘secret’ hold, which sorted me in the end after I’d told myself off for dithering.
From then on it was plain sailing. The slab pitch didn’t disappoint. Its one of the best pitches at its grade anywhere imo. Amazing exposure, good holds and just generally all around fun. The hard move is just that. Harder than anything else on the climb. Many give it 4c and I wouldn’t argue with that. I think there is an easier and more difficult way to tackle it. However one feels a lot bolder than the other. Barry did a fine job of getting through it (the bold way) and it wrapped up a fantastic adventure.
Smug we were having completed one of Cornwall’s more iconic routes. And we finished in sunshine. Luck was with us on this day.
Carn Barra Taurus the Second – Severe 4b – Alt Lead
Wow, it was brass monkey’s today. Easterly cold breeze and air temperature of around 4 degrees. A beautiful sunny day though, that delivered on so many fronts except for the wet foot from treading in the lake that blocked the lane leading through to the southern end of Carn Barra.
Chris and I mooched around the Weasle area, checking out the fierce looking offwidths of Criss and Iron Cross. Some good climbing to be had here I think, but maybe on a day when you can feel your hands (or maybe thats a good thing ofr these thrutchy fella’s)
We settled on Taurus the Second on the upper buttress. Strange how I,ve not done this considering how many times we’ve been here. Still it was an ok climb. A hairy V notch with few hand holds gets you working hard. Good gear, but it feels a bit sketchy because of all the vegetation. Good to do something a bit different though and with the sun out I actually got a bit of a sweat on, which was good reason to not wear our beanie’s under our helmets.
I think both Chris and me were just glad to get out for a bit given all the rain recently. One climb was enough and so it was off to Spoons in Penzance. End of a good day.
Doorway – Severe 4a – Alt Lead (P1) Doorpost – HS 4b – Alt Lead (P2)
This was an occasion for re-visiting some old favourites and picking up on the theme of doors, we opted for two absolute classics.
End of Pitch 1 Doorpost
To be fair it was great to just spend time on the rock and both routes are challenging enough to keep you sharp. I absolutely love climbing at Bosigran. It was one of the first places Bart ever took me when we started climbing. And what a revelation it was. I remember doing Andrew and realising that climbing was going to be the source of my adventures going forward.
F#@k surfing and crowds with bad attitude.
Chris leading Pitch 1 Doorpost
Here you can be with mates in the solitude of some of the most beautiful parts of Cornwall surrounded by good vibes and excitement. I have said before that it gives me the same buzz as I had when I started surfing back in the 80’s with no crowds and just mates for company.
Having fun on Doorpost
Sat on a belay ledge 200ft up a cliff makes you reflect on these things and realise how lucky you are. I think I’ll always think of myself as foremost a surfer, but the reality now is that I climb a lot more than I surf.
So another beautiful evening at Butter Hole and this one included an epic. Chris’ words to Mike, “Its always an epic with Ian!” rang truer than usual with an outing to a part of the cliff which can only be described as fluid.
As a start we backed up the pretty rusty in situ belay stakes with a couple of our own. Good job really as the abseil went straight over the cave and we all had a bit of air time. I should have know that the upper sections would be loose when a couple of large blocks detached as I gingerly abbed off the grassy ledge.
The hidden amphitheatre, as it is called, is actually very impressive. On a sunny evening like we had with no swell it was idylic. It probably warranted a swim, but we underestimated how long I would faff on the fairly tough 4b crux of MTP. My head is definitely not quite there yet. I feel good in my climbing, but cant combine the two at the moment. It will come.
The crux is through an overhang, into a groove. Good pro for the move into the groove, but the holds run out just above and so does the gear for a bit. Add a desire to not trust the rock and you have the perfect head game.
It seemed a bit unfair on Mike. Only his second outing in a while and we all ended up on a belay at mid height. It turned out to be the right move as everything above moved, fell off or was grass. The size of some of the boulders Chris was moving around as he threaded his way to the ab rope was definitely disturbing.
But, we all made it out alive which is a bonus. In review, a good lower section and a suicidal upper one. No stars this time, but for drama what more could you ask for. The mist at the end added to this as we all left fairly content with our achievements.
As for the fly I inhaled and which got stuck in my throat on the way in. Well, its the first meat I’ve eaten in 30 years.
Why it never rains on a Friday!
Cookie Consent
We use cookies to improve your experience on our site. By using our site, you consent to cookies.
Used to determine whether a user is included in an A / B or Multivariate test.
18 months
_ga
ID used to identify users
2 years
_gali
Used by Google Analytics to determine which links on a page are being clicked
30 seconds
_ga_
ID used to identify users
2 years
_gid
ID used to identify users for 24 hours after last activity
24 hours
_gat
Used to monitor number of Google Analytics server requests when using Google Tag Manager
1 minute
_gac_
Contains information related to marketing campaigns of the user. These are shared with Google AdWords / Google Ads when the Google Ads and Google Analytics accounts are linked together.
90 days
__utma
ID used to identify users and sessions
2 years after last activity
__utmt
Used to monitor number of Google Analytics server requests
10 minutes
__utmb
Used to distinguish new sessions and visits. This cookie is set when the GA.js javascript library is loaded and there is no existing __utmb cookie. The cookie is updated every time data is sent to the Google Analytics server.
30 minutes after last activity
__utmc
Used only with old Urchin versions of Google Analytics and not with GA.js. Was used to distinguish between new sessions and visits at the end of a session.
End of session (browser)
__utmz
Contains information about the traffic source or campaign that directed user to the website. The cookie is set when the GA.js javascript is loaded and updated when data is sent to the Google Anaytics server
6 months after last activity
__utmv
Contains custom information set by the web developer via the _setCustomVar method in Google Analytics. This cookie is updated every time new data is sent to the Google Analytics server.
2 years after last activity
Jetpack's built-in visitor analytics. It records page views, referring sites, search terms, and outbound link clicks, and also carries the shared visitor-tracking library used by Jetpack Instant Search and WooCommerce Analytics.
