Monthly Archives: September 2010

Climbing

You and who’s arm’ees

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24th September 2010
The Dewerstone

Silken Thread/Imperialist – HVS 5a, 5a – Second
Gideon – E1 5b – Second

The trip up to Devon was not an auspicious start. Numerous traffic jams and road blockages started me thinking that maybe climbing wasnt on today. This was all put firmly behing me once I ‘d met up with Nick and trekked into the Dewerstone. What a beautifull place, especially when the sun shines through exposing the tall buttresses which poke up elusively through the tree tops.

I’d been here before both walking and on a climbing trip with Bart a long time back, and we ended up on a vegetated crag which was entertaining but not a proper route. This was different. I got a chance to view the main face which has a number of cracking climbs on it.

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As it happened we started off on Raven Buttress on a tricky HVS. The first pitch is balancy and not well protected at first. The move around the corner is great though, but not designed for taller people. I must have banged my helmet a dozen times on the way around. The second pitch is a steep chimney followed by some grunt work past a overhang and up onto the slab above. A great varied climb which reminded me what arms are for in climbing.

Gideon just built on this. The first pitch is amazing, although it proved a bit too much for me. Lots of mental and physical battles up to the crux. As it says in the book, “He who hesitates is lost”. So I lost! A shame really because I actually made the move to the first juggy hold but ran out of gas with my arms turning to stone. A brief rest and I was back on it. All credit to Nick for a top lead in drizzle no less. I need to improve my stamina if I am serious about getting on E numbers. Still, what an amazing afternoon.

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The walk out in the dark capped a great outing and left a satisfying feeling of using up the whole day. Not a minute of wasted daylight. Oh yes, and the new rockfax guide is brilliant. So if you get one, keep it close….

Climbing

Return of the Cruncher

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12th September 2010
Pentire Point

The English Way – HS 4b – Second
Nipped in the Buddha – VS 4c – Lead
Our Stars, Our Sky – VS 4c – Alt Lead P2

This was a day for calendar shots so we took a couple, ensuring the magazine pose was just right. I think I’ll need to stick with the day job though.

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Pentire Point in my mind was the playground of ‘grown up’ climbers. People who see E5 as a reasonable grade. So it was great to discover that there is a real mixture of climbing here and some amazing routes. Nick and I ended up doing three great climbs.

Black Zawn is aptly described in its name. It is a place that the sun does not often reach and therefore is a bit forbidding when you first drop down on an abseil. It is also wet in places, mainly due to run off. Having said that there is something magnetic about the climbing there. The two routes we did were both great. The English Way was just a means to climb out at first, but turned out to be worthwhile in its own right. An awkward move at mid height destroys all pretences of elegence and makes your mind work hard.

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Nipped in the Buddha was not dry enough in the morning so we considered a couple of options: play around on a top rope on the more difficult climbsor have a go at a route I remembered from somewhere callesd Our Stars, OUR sKY. The latter won out and we lucked into a fantastic route, which provided a great deal of adventure and two good pitches. I led the second pitch which follows a line across the shield face just above the undercut. It’s amazing, one of the best pitches I’ve evr led. Not  the hardest, but committing with perfect foot and hand placements where you need them. I had my crunchy moment, as I stepped into a crystalline pocket, but this seems to be a trend with me. Of course my attempts to follow Nicks instructions on communicating with my second went slightly arrae so we sat there like lemons for ten minutes waiting for a signal to move. My fault, but as Nick said, a lesson well learnt.

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Still buzzing, I managed to get the lead on Buddha as well. This one is much harder climbing, with some wet areas. To be honest this didnt effect the route and I think I got it as good as you can get it in the dark, dank zawn. Once again, brilliant climbing, pushing me all the way with a tricky crux a few metres above the slab. Its great to have routes where the rock feels really positive and all of them were like this. It can be brittle in places, but take care and you can climb with confidence.

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With the sunny day fading we climbed back towards Pentire Farm (just long enough to get another calendar shot). Another new venue for me and somewhere else to add to my long list of places to return to.

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Climbing

Mix and Match

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10th September 2010
Carn Boel

Kari – V Diff – Lead

Not happy with having caned our legs last outing, Pete and I decided to march into Carn Boel. Why pick a crag close to the road when you can get away from it all?

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Still, it was well worth it. Heavy discussions on Religion and life did not result in the outbreak of hostilities (like it normally does in the world) but helped pass the time as we wandered past the petting zoo. Carn Boel is another exercise in crag finding, although easier than Black Head.

Having found the decent chimneys we made our way to the Terrace ramp only to be faced with trying to work out which route was which. I think in the end we did a Wandering Worlds – Kari – Four Directions combo.

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Whatever we did, it seemed harder than V Diff, or else Kari is hard. We ended up doing four pitches but it probably should have been five as we solo’d out the top section. There are lots of holds and foot placements throughout, but pro can be hard to place and particularly on the last narrow sloping ramp there is a committing move which draws you out left forcing you off balance and requiring a bit of boldness. The ramp is steep and slopes away from the cliff making the whole exercise awkward as it says in the guide. As a V Diff leader I would  be surprised to be faced with a pitch like this, but alternatively I could be making too much of it.

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Pete and I were  pleased at how entertaining the whole climb was. Each pitch different technically (the overhang  on P3 requires a bit of brute force), whereas the bottom crack is fingery and more balanced. Lots of lichen and vegetation in places, but nothing you cant get around. Altogether another fantastic evening on Cornish granite. Beats being at work!

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Climbing

How far?

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5th August 2010
Black Head

White Russians – VS 4c – Lead

It is noticeable that walking in to a crag always seems easier and quicker than walking out. Black Head is a good 30 – 40 mins from the car park and gives your legs something to think about by time you get there. Couple that with our zig zagging down the bouldery slope to get to the climb and we were well warmed up to say the least.

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I found it quite tricky locating the main face, despite my previous visit and Pete and I found a less than direct route to the foot of the crag. This then leaves you with another awkward drop down to a belay stance below White Russians.

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We left a short ab rope in situ which we also used to anchor Pete into as part of his belay. If the swell had been bigger the gulley he was in would not have been the place to be!

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White Russians is a brilliant climb. Not hard technically, but committing with a sting in the tail. Its the sting that makes it really forcing you out and upwards in an exposed position. What I would say is watch out for loose rocks particularly on the left face of the top arete. There are some football sized lumps just begging to be released. The sea on this evening looked magnificent, turquoise in places studded with rocks and islets. While sat soaking in the spectacle from the belay ledge, Pete found an ankle strap from a racing pidgeon. Turns out it was on its way to Ireland but the fact it was on the ledge next to a pile of feathers suggests it met up with something significantly bigger and more hungry.

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As I pointed out at the beginning, the walk back seemed to take forever, but the lights of Coverack were welcoming as we eventually staggered into the pub car park. Amazing evenings climbing, but I was knackered. I think age is gradually catching up.

 

Climbing

On the not often beaten track

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28th July 2010
Rosemergy Towers

Finger Winch – VS 5a – Lead
Flash Back – Severe 4a – Lead
East Tower Arete – Diff – Lead

Considering its proximity to the coast road, Rosemergy Towers gives you a sense of being in the wilderness. Within minutes of dropping down the track to the Coast Path you feel remote and from the state of the access trail it is a not often climbed venue.

For me and Pete it was our first venture to this area. Viewing the crag from across the valley, we were not aware of the variety of climbing that was going to be available. Once down at the crag it gradually reveals its secrets as you skirt the southern face.

We picked a severe to start on and it proved to be a challenge at the grade. Pleanty of pro except on the crux crack, high on the climb. This proved tricky, but added a level of excitment I was not prepared for. Saying that, it woke me up and prepared me for Finger Winch and different proposition entirely.

I enjoyed this climb, even if it did force an early retreat for me to gather my strength and go go again. Its name does what it says. Small but positive holds enable you to pull up into a series of rounded buttresses. Very rewarding. We finished up the Arete due to dwindling levels of energy and tiredness and made our way to the tea rooms. I can recommend these to all, especially if you catch them like us in the sun and evening warmth.

We’ll go back to the Towers. There is an HVS and E1 which I would like to have a crack at.