5th August 2010
Black Head

White Russians – VS 4c – Lead

It is noticeable that walking in to a crag always seems easier and quicker than walking out. Black Head is a good 30 – 40 mins from the car park and gives your legs something to think about by time you get there. Couple that with our zig zagging down the bouldery slope to get to the climb and we were well warmed up to say the least.

I found it quite tricky locating the main face, despite my previous visit and Pete and I found a less than direct route to the foot of the crag. This then leaves you with another awkward drop down to a belay stance below White Russians.

We left a short ab rope in situ which we also used to anchor Pete into as part of his belay. If the swell had been bigger the gulley he was in would not have been the place to be!

White Russians is a brilliant climb. Not hard technically, but committing with a sting in the tail. Its the sting that makes it really forcing you out and upwards in an exposed position. What I would say is watch out for loose rocks particularly on the left face of the top arete. There are some football sized lumps just begging to be released. The sea on this evening looked magnificent, turquoise in places studded with rocks and islets. While sat soaking in the spectacle from the belay ledge, Pete found an ankle strap from a racing pidgeon. Turns out it was on its way to Ireland but the fact it was on the ledge next to a pile of feathers suggests it met up with something significantly bigger and more hungry.

As I pointed out at the beginning, the walk back seemed to take forever, but the lights of Coverack were welcoming as we eventually staggered into the pub car park. Amazing evenings climbing, but I was knackered. I think age is gradually catching up.