13th May 2011

Bosigran

Andrew – Severe 4a – Lead
Trapese – HVS 5a – Lead

I wasnt sure Bosi was the right place to climb, because of the stiff westerley but as it happened we were fine climbing in the recessed area around Andrew. Also having sunshine always cheers things up and for Dave who had never been to Bosi it brought out all of Bosi’s magical scenery.

I realised I wasnt climbing with an ordinary mortal when Dave posed for pre climb shots. Clearly no one would pose like this unless they had super powers! Then I remembered how he hobbled just as much as I did on our walk on Bodmin and realised this was just bravado. Anyway a couple of good pitches at Bosi would wipe the smile off his face (or put a bigger one on it)

I hadnt climbed Andrew in a long while and it was my first multi pitch route so what better place to introduce Dave to multi pitch. I had also forgotten how good a climb it is. A bit meandering but each pitch brings something new: an arete followed by a delicate traverse, then an exposed balancy ‘shuffle’ and finally (and the best bit) a chimney which calls for some working out. Its not difficult if you climb it right. But thats the why so many peole find it hard, as I did the first time. Dave made a briliant job of it working out which way to face which is the key.

Popping up at the top we met a Swiss girl walking the Penwith coast, the only other person we met all day. Its not often you get Bosi to yourself.

Climb two was a different proposition. Trapese is a great climb, if only a little short. Well protected, you have to make sure you dont place your gear where you want your hands and feet to go. The Crux for me was the move up into the vertical crack. It took me ages to work it out and by then I’d thoroughly pumped my arms. I left just enough to pull through to grateful resting postion near the top. A large Hex set sideways will protect the top crack, just… or a large CAM which I didnt have. Still a great climb.

I wondered how Dave would find the climb as he hasnt climbed a lot recently, but he went through it with no problems. Its only when you are at the top that you realsie how overhanging the corner is. Another HVS tick for me which I am really pleased with.

Little Brown Jug had to wait as the wind was a bit fierce on the main face, so thats the next target when I return. The end of another fantastic days climbing and a pat on the back for having this on our doorstep.