Hawk’s Tor
19 th May 2011

The Cat’s ‘ere – Severe 4b – Lead
Recollection – HS 4b – Lead
Black Beastie – VS 4c – Lead

The stroll up to the tor through the fern and bracken  brought about another deer sighting. Every time I’ve been to the North Hill area I have seen deer. This one broke cover, sprinting back towards the trees having been stood right in our path. Dominic’s keen eyesight picking it up.

Once again this was a day when we saw no one. A bit windy and unsettled, we made the most of the changing conditions trying to climb in the lee of the tor. This was the first time Dominic and I had climbed as buddies and it was a good chance to test out his progress. So the aim was to increase a grade on each climb.

The Cat’s ‘ere was first up. I had seen a couple of climbers struggling on the top move of this one last time I was at the tor, so I thought it could be tricky.

It’s really a one move wonder of a climb, well protected, but favouring the taller person. Get your body shape right and its OK, otherwise I thinkit requires a strenuous pull up. A good warm up for what was to come.

I spent all day forgetting the name of the second climb we did, which is ironic cos its called ‘Recollection’ Duhhh!! This was completely different, requiring bridging and a finishing with a nervy top out. Again well protected if you have Cam’s for the horizontal breaks. The 4b move was not as difficult on this as TCE imo, but I suppose different moves suit different climbers. Dominic also found this one easier, but it does feel a little more exposed.

We saved the best until last though. I’d eye’d up Black Beastie last time I was here but ran out of time. No excuse this time, so we geared up. The start is really interesting. It can be done two ways. As a step over from the opposing boulder or straight up. Have faffed around on the step over for a few minutes I climbed it direct which improved my balance no end.. The Rowan tree is a pain, but offers good pro. I tried not to use it as a hold, which made the move into the crack awkward. Still it adds character to the climb.

At this point my common sense deserted me; why bother using two ropes on a meandering climb when you can thread them as a single and generate huge amounts of rope drag. Which is precisely what I did meaning I made the precarious and balancy top move with about 4 ft of slack in the system for fear of being pulled off. It would have made for a fine ‘whipper’. The route though is great, with lots of slopers, jams and pinches. Gear is there when you need it, although the top move is protected by a lonely cam in a fairly shallow placement. Its enough and I’m posative it would hold.

Well worth climbing is my feeling. Maybe the sunshine and drop in wind helped make it seem better but I would give it stars.
We finished off with a bouldering session, working our way around the tor. Having met Sean Hawkin last week at Gold Digging quarry I’m looking forward to his revised data on bouldering routes here and on Kilmar Tor across the valley. There seems to be loads of it around.