28th October 2016

Cuckoo Rocks/Combeshead Tor/Down Tor

Too many problems to note…  But some of the best-
Pooh Slab – f5 – Down Tor
Flat Sausage – f4 – Down Tor

Ummm… Bouldering? I’ll be honest here and say that bouldering doesnt really do it for me. I suppose its a demonstration of physical prowess, but where’s the 50ft chasm’s gawping below you; the setting off into the unknown. I think its the adventure that attracts me in trad and its missing from bouldering. Except of course the walk in and the location which in Cuckoo Rock’s case is stunning.

Set near to Burrator Reservoir, there are vista’s all around and its nice to get a walk in at the same time as climbing. You park up on the loop road and set off up the valley and rocks appear out of nowhere. There were four locations we visited. A small Tor on the way up, Whale Rock and then the two main Tor’s of Cuckoo and Down.

As is usual anything harder that f5 spanked me, but trying is fun and I almost unlocked a great traverse at Cuckoo. One to aspire to and one to get stronger for. What was really nice was being out with Tom and Joe and being in the situation where we could relax and just mooch around. A day very well spent and of course we got the weather as well… just.

21st October 2016

Bosigran – Great Zawn

Omen -E2 5b – Second
Raven Wall (Optional Start) – VS 5a – Lead
Zig Zag (Optional Start) – VS 4c – Lead

The title suggests this was a nightmare, but actually this was a brilliant days climbing and Joe was on top form, smashing through a difficult and bold E2. Very impressive.

I’ve not really climbed anywhere in the Great Zawn, so this was a cool introduction and in an unexpected part of the zawn. Coming in from the top level above Commando ridge you get a birds eye view of Desolation Row and hidden neatly away is a steep wall below. I think Joe had been eyeing this one for a while and could see why. A very good, steep line with just enough pro to make it OK, although the opening few moves are bold.

That said, I think the crux is actually later in the climb, just when the pro gets thin again. Of course I managed to leave a piece of pro in when I seconded, so having done the hard lower section, I had to reverse it all and start again. Second attempt was clean and I have to say one of the most enjoyable climbs I’ve done for a while.

It was also good to be back climbing with Joe. It seems ages since we have been buddying up together and it was great fun. I had intened to have a go at vatiety show but my indifferent confidence and the large volume of spray blowing over the lower ledges deterred me, so it was off to the main face.

With not too much drive to get stuck into anything too difficult we had a play on the lower routes below Raven Wall. These are a bit polished but fun. Both had their moments, but they are really just a pre-cursor to the main event which is of course the main face above.

All in all a good day out, with the Omen providing the memorable moments in the splendor of the Great Zawn.