Monthly Archives: March 2023

Climbing

Return of the Piper

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27th March 2023

Predannack Head – International Buttress

Entente – Diff – Lead
Cordiale – Diff – Lead
Golden Slab – Diff – Lead

So Dave and I are feeling our way back into climbing and Predannack Head seems to have an abundance of low grade routes, ideal for testing the body, but not stressing it.

Dave abbing into International Buttress

It is also an advantage that International Buttress is relatively close to the parking so provides a short walk in. However what is not so good, is route finding. At least until you ab in when all becomes clearer. The topo diagram in the Climbers Club book seems to distort the actual positions of the climbs. Basically, if you drop down what is an obvious, not too steep gulley to the right of the main buttress you will start to recognise the descriptions.

The line of Entente, just to the left of the ab rope on the lighter coloured rock

Considering we spent the day on Diffs, it was great fun. They are all nice routes. Not demanding, but interesting, and ideal for getting your head back in the right place for leading.

Dave does getting wet

Todays highlight was of course seeing Dave get a soaking while trapped down in the gulley. Ahh, so now you know how it feels Dave! On a serious note, had the swell been bigger it would have been quite dodgy. One to do when things are calmer I think.

Predannack of course just keeps delivering on the entertainment front.

Climbing

Two days at Bosi

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1st and 2nd March 2023

Bosigran

Kate – V Diff – Lead
In Between – V Diff – Second
Alison Rib – Diff – Second
Oread – HV Diff – Lead
Oread Bypass – HV Diff – Lead

It is strange how the difficulty of grades becomes distorted as you progress through them. A couple of years ago Chris and me were comfortable at the VS grade and looking at them as a warm up to harder climbs.

So targeting V Diffs as a sort of training day, we were thinking they would be a push over. Of course we were quickly reminded that all climbing has its moments and although not hard, the V Diffs were mentally challenging when you are stiff, out of condition and your head is not in the game.

The climbs around the Alison Rib area all turned out to be worthwhile. I’d go as far as to say a novice V Diff leader would probably have found Oread in particular, a harrowing experience. Unprotected mantelshelves are not usual at this grade. In between also had a tricky move. I think in general none of these should be underestimated, but they do provide a testing transition into this and the Severe grade.

Day one was Chris and myself and day two Tom and me. It was good to get some mileage in and my op scar didn’t trouble me, so that bodes well for the future. Climbing out with packs up Alison Rib proved a good call. It all downhill back to the car. Bonus!

Days like this often come down to being in good company and both days progressed my feeling of wellbeing in the right direction.