A Beast when its East

January 17, 2024 dillwat Leave a comment

17th January 2024

Carn Boel (Terrace)
Four Directions – Severe 4b – Lead
Carn Boel Cleft – V Diff – Solo

I really am impressed with how easy the Lands End facility make getting a locals permit for parking. It is a welcome change from those rip off bastards at Porthgwarra who are charging £8.50 a day! Disgraceful really for winter parking.

I know LE’s a tourist attraction, knocked by many, but it has always had its own charm and I have always enjoyed going there. Not least because it is situated on one of the most stunning bits of coast in the UK. The walk in always sets the mood and despite the cold Tom, Chris and me were looking forward to getting on the rock.

I had tried Four Directions with Barry a while back and backed off for a number of reasons. The main one being that it felt quite tough and it was one of Barry’s first outings. Strangely, it was even tougher when your fingers and toes were numb and you are dressed up to the nines.

So it was on with the fannying around getting gear in and trying to sort the ropes out. The crux is about 8 meters up, above a ledge. Its a overhang and to get through it you have to move up left and into a short v groove. The problem is that holds run out as you get into the steeper area, not something you’d expect on a severe. But the cold definitely played a part. If I’m honest I couldnt tell if there were better holds. Once I latched something I had to trust I could hold it because my fingers were so cold. There’s also an interesting wall above the overhang with small foot placements and dubious looking rock. Oh yeh, and the gear goes thin.

Not selling it really am I. Strangely though I did enjoy it. I was also relieved when both Tom and Chris found it hard. It wasnt just me being a pansy.

The cleft was a great ending to the session. Squeezing between trapped boulders and bridging up the narrow cave like recess is so much fun. You emerge back into the light through a narrow opening in the roof. Straight forward as a solo, but dont fall off. You’d rattle on the way down.

Climbing

Have a word with yourself Ian!

January 11, 2024 dillwat Leave a comment

11th January 2024

Chair Ladder
Pegasus – HS 4b – Lead

I last climbed Pegasus in March 2007, 16 years ago. And prior to that and unrecorded in my logbook, I climbed it with Tony H and Bart on what was probably the most adventurous climb I had ever done up to that point.

So returning with Barry, who would be in the same stage of his climbing initiation as I was, was very apt. A bitterly cold day, we managed to find a spot of warmth and sunshine, at least for part of the day. Having checked out Panda buttress and declined, the tide was low enough and the swell small enough to get on Pegasus.

I always find the first pitch more difficult that the technical grade suggests. I think its because it is nearly always a bit greasy and wet. It makes the move out of the top of the groove just that bit insecure. But I did remember the ‘secret’ hold, which sorted me in the end after I’d told myself off for dithering.

From then on it was plain sailing. The slab pitch didn’t disappoint. Its one of the best pitches at its grade anywhere imo. Amazing exposure, good holds and just generally all around fun. The hard move is just that. Harder than anything else on the climb. Many give it 4c and I wouldn’t argue with that. I think there is an easier and more difficult way to tackle it. However one feels a lot bolder than the other. Barry did a fine job of getting through it (the bold way) and it wrapped up a fantastic adventure.

Smug we were having completed one of Cornwall’s more iconic routes. And we finished in sunshine. Luck was with us on this day.

Climbing

The rise and fall of the Underbeanie.

January 8, 2024 dillwat Leave a comment

8th January 2024

Carn Barra
Taurus the Second – Severe 4b – Alt Lead

Wow, it was brass monkey’s today. Easterly cold breeze and air temperature of around 4 degrees. A beautiful sunny day though, that delivered on so many fronts except for the wet foot from treading in the lake that blocked the lane leading through to the southern end of Carn Barra.

Chris and I mooched around the Weasle area, checking out the fierce looking offwidths of Criss and Iron Cross. Some good climbing to be had here I think, but maybe on a day when you can feel your hands (or maybe thats a good thing ofr these thrutchy fella’s)

We settled on Taurus the Second on the upper buttress. Strange how I,ve not done this considering how many times we’ve been here. Still it was an ok climb. A hairy V notch with few hand holds gets you working hard. Good gear, but it feels a bit sketchy because of all the vegetation. Good to do something a bit different though and with the sun out I actually got a bit of a sweat on, which was good reason to not wear our beanie’s under our helmets.

I think both Chris and me were just glad to get out for a bit given all the rain recently. One climb was enough and so it was off to Spoons in Penzance. End of a good day.