Monthly Archives: September 2024

Climbing

What Euromillions can do for you

Leave a comment

18th September 2024

Boswednack Cliff
No Justice – V Diff – Second
Groovy Justice – Severe 4a – Second

Having your own private beach would be amazing. Having two private beaches would be next level. If I win the Euromillions I might just have this. Or at least I’ll know where I can get it.

Boswednack is a little bit more remote than many venues we visit. Takes about 35-40 mins to walk in. Requires an abseil to remove the ball-ache of a slippery downclimb and is pretty intimidating as a crag. It also doesnt get the sun until much later in the day, so if shady climbing is your thing, fill your boots.

I really like it here. The climbs feel different from those of many crags. Greenstone cliffs do that. The rock as a whole is ok, but you have to be prepared for loose stuff and alter your climbing to suit this.

Chris eyeing up the start of Groovy Justice

Chris’s opener on Groovy Justice was quite a challenge. The bomber gear placement is just out of reach, so you need to commit before you can place it. A good one for Chris to get his head back in the right place for leading. The climb is also a little off kilter, but it is a fun adventure up the right side of the crag.

Dave about to start the final headwall of No Justice

Dave went for the obvious ramp of No Justice. Again a tough opening which needs commitment. Seems to be a theme here. Once on the main arete/ramp the climbing is steady, although it has a sting in its tail which includes large chunks of loose rock. Again a good lead by Dave and another step up. The team is excelling!

The Main Face area

I had to make an alteration to my log book. I had originally added Rough Justice HVS 5b from my only previous visit. Turns out I had actually climbed Last Minute Reprieve E1 5c. So a bonus to the grade. It does though mean I have to go back an do Rough Justice properly. Does look good though.

The walk out included a swim in the now flooded beach, but was still great and finally capped off with a pint at the Gurnards Head. All in all a very good day.

Climbing

This snake bites a bit

1 Comment

12th September 2024

Predannack Head – Beginners Area

Adder Skin (Variation Finish) – VS 5a – Lead
Zig Zag – Mod – Second

A recent online chat reminded me of a different finish to Adder Skin. I’d done the original which is excellent in it’s own right, but the vertical crack arising from the original face is a tempting line. Also the wind and conditions meant this area was at least partly sheltered on a NW.

Adder Skin – Variation Finish

It was also great to have Dave back with us. Although maybe a bit unfair to launch him at a really tricky VS for a starter. The climb is all about the move into the crack. I found it hard to get a good high piece of gear in (which I really wanted as a fall would mean a bounce off the face below) because to see into the crack require some delicate manoeuvring. Once you’ve got the gear though you can launch at it.

Dave moving into the crack of Adder Skin Variation VS 5a

Its not as burly as you might imagine from the ground. More a case of judicious use of the foot placements and committing out onto the left hand face. A really good climb imo. Chris and I commented that we’ve been lucky recently to bag a succession of great routes. Chris climbed it very smoothly, obviously finding the holds to unlock it first time.

Chris on his way up Zig Zag

And Dave got to lead Zig Zag. Not hard climbing, but loads of exposure and a brilliant route. One of my favourite on the Headland, just because of how it slants up a really imposing slab. So good.

Fantasia E2 5b – Through the twin horizontal breaks into the niche and then up the headwall.

I also checked out Fantasia, the E2 at the bottom of the ramp. Will be doing that next time I’m here for sure.

Climbing

Don’t hang on the Chicken… Stand on it!

Leave a comment

4th September 2024

Chair Ladder
The Mitre – VS 4c – Lead
Asterix in Cornwall – VS 5a – Lead

The Mitre has been on my wish-list forever. It’s the description in the guidebook that always put the frighteners on me in the past. “A difficult move around the arete leads to instant exposure”. And yes it does, on a grand scale.

About to set off on the Mitre

The initial cracks are really enjoyable, leading to the obvious chicken head. Remember to keep going here. The low traverse looks nails and unprotected. Whereas the higher one, although scary has good holds and foot placements. I actually found the move into the crack on the face the more technical and difficult. All in all though a brilliant climb. Shame the bottom section fell down but its still well worth doing.

Alternative ending to Asterix in Cornwall

Asterix in Cornwall is the sister to Nutcracker. Not as hard, although still thuggy, with a tough mantle-shelf onto the large ledge. I challenge people to do this with elegance. Me and Chris both failed in that department. I would also add that if you continue, then its difficult to protect your second on this move. I chose to belay on the large ledge.

Dave’s number 6 walnut??

Chair Ladder as always was magnificent. Such a magnificent setting. Chris and I used to climb here regularly when we more of a double act. I think the consensus is that we will get back into doing more of this. Maybe go for some of the harder classics next time.