6th July 2012

Vessacks West/Vessacks Point

Phallus – Severe 4a – Second
Elizabeth – HVS 5a – Lead
Vessactomy – Severe 4a – Second

Vessacks is not the easiest place to find. The directions in the guide book referred to a balanced boulder which we never found. Approaching from St Levens Church we went further west and came back along the coast path. The most prominent feature is a rugged island sat to the west of the main point and this is a good landmark for finding Vessacks West which is down to the right facing out.

It’s tidal so it took a while to dry and to make the most of the drying time we scouted out the point. There are a series of Severe’s and V Diffs here and Dave set off on Phallus for the first lead of the day.

The clue is in the name. A series of ledges leads to a top wall and a striking appendage. This forms the crux of the route with an exposed move through the overhang. During the course of Dave’s ascent we were lucky enough to see our first ‘Basker’ of the season. It’s always brilliant to see these huge ceatures cruising by and a good sign summer is here (as long as you ignore the rain).

Back at Vessacks West we were struggling to find a route not wet. Elizabeth being an arete seems to be fairing better than the corners although it too had damp patches. I think the wet always undermines my confidence and this was no exception. I faffed around for ages before finally moving up into the second niche. The pro wasnt brilliant and the holds greasy so it was all a head game. The fact Chris had pulled a ist sized chunch of rock away while we were bouldering around probably didnt help either.

Once underway the route is fine although another tricky section awaits near the top. The climb is a little spoiled by a chossy top ramp which is vegetated. But the location makes up for it providing a belay with a stunning view over the rock pools below the buttress.

The final climb of the day lead by Chris proved to be deceptive. The guide indicates going straight up the central top spike. A series of tricky rounded ledges leads to a totally unprotected and rounded top slab. Not possible at Severe and most likely in the E’s realistically. The groove to the right gives a better finish at the grade.

This capped off another terrific day out. I want to try Madonna of the Waves next time. Harder, but if dry I think it will be good.