Tag Archives: Nick

Getting your tactics right

July 28, 2013 dillwat Leave a comment

28th July 2013

St Gova’ns Head and Stuntsman’s Buttress

Tactician – HVS 5a – Second
Big Sea Running – E1 5b – Second

Sometimes you just have to get on with things and take a chance. Today was one of those days. We woke to heavy rain rattling the tent; an unlikely start for a good days climbing. But once it stopped and we stocked up on breakfasts, the sun was out and everything was back on.

We dropped into St Govans at a different point this time. Aiming for a large ledge system at the base of Tactician. This climb seems innocuous enough from the bottom, but soon moves into tough territory. Despite being 5a, I found that the crux move was as hard as anything I did during the entire trip. Possibly I just didnt do it very well, but it was powerful and committing. V Good lead by Nick on this one.

We re located to Stuntsmans Buttress following this, watching a rescue going on off Stennis Head for an unlucky climber who’d taken a fall. By all accounts he was thankfully OK.

Nick’s enthusiasm for climbing never seems to wain. While I was admiring the spectacular Huntsmans Leap and keeping a close watch on the weather, Nick was contemplating having a go at an E1 near the mouth of the Leap. Passing by rather unusual litter in the form of a Starburst shell (This whole area is right next to a massive military range) we headed out onto Stuntsmans Buttress. My personal drive was on the ebb and the couple who’s ab rope we used to drop in on decided to sit it out and wait for the weather to improve.

This explained the disappearing rope once we had descended as they abandoned their climbing day. So we’re at the base of an E1 in the drizzle, with what looks like an approaching deluge. What could go wrong? Nothing as it happens. Nicks full on optimism came up trumps. The rain missed us, the climb dried out really quickly and the route turned out to be very entertaining.

Nick eyeing up the descent to Big Sea Running

The perfect end of a trip and proof that if you think positively you make the most of every situation. The drive back was a good chance for reflection on what had been a brilliant trip. My first experience of Pembroke will ensure that I return time and again. I feel another climbing trip coming on.

Climbing

The adventures of Jimmy Noropes

July 27, 2013 dillwat Leave a comment

27th July 2013

Mother Carey’s Kitchen

Crithmum – VS 5a – Lead
Joyous Gard – HVS 5a – Second
Rock Idol – E1 5a – Lead

Mother Scaries as Nick told me it is sometimes called is just that. Scary. You pitch up at the top of what looks like a shear cliff (it is) and abseil into nothing.

It helped that Nick knew the area because I would image it is hard work getting your bearings on a first trip. Today was to be a day of real highs and sort of lows. But mostly highs!

We started off on Crithmum, which proved to be a puzzling beginning. However hard we tried we couldnt match the guide book description with wht we were looking at. In the end I followed what I thought was the closest to the line described. The top turned out to be a real liability with loose rock and insecure holds. It turns out from online comments that Crithmum fell down around 2010 and the remains are graded at HVS not VS. I think this is more due to the precarious nature of the rock though.

Nick on the brilliant Joyous Gard after emerging from the cave.

Nicks lead on Joyous Guard was one of the most impressive of the trip. Strenuous with a really technical section high up, it was fantastic climbing. One of my favorite climbs of the trip to be honest. Moving out of the cave at the bottom gave a real sense of adventure and the suddenly appearing on a shear face gives this climb amazing exposure.

During the course of climbing Crismum I managed to chuck a whole set of nuts, krab included into the sea. My usual form in recent times. This seemed to cause me to completely lose my mind and led to an surreal moment back on the low tide platform where I frantically searched my body for the blue rope with the growing realisation that it was still at the top of the crag. In most places this would be a problem. In Mother Careys Kitchen it seemed a disaster.

Fortunately ‘Marine Boy’ Nick thought nothing of swimming across the bay to ascend and retrieve it, thus saving my bacon. This was after he had also found my drowned nuts. All he needed was a cape!

What Nick did sort out by his actions was my opportunity to climb Rock Idol – thank God he did. It’s an amazing climb which contains everything. From the bottom I was seriously thinking that I was out of my depth as the route soared up through the corner and overhangs.

But once on the route I found some rhythm and was progressing well until I arrived at the overhang. A crisis of confidence ensued which I finally overcame launching upwards and finding that the holds just kept on coming. It is a special climb and one I will not forget for a long time.

The day was capped off with fajita’s and ginger beer ( and a bit of Italian wine). All’s well that ends well despite my attempts to sabotage the day.

There are some pretty spectacular caves at Mother Ivys

OK so we’ve got three mediocre anchors… lets go!

Climbing

If Carlsberg made crags……

July 26, 2013 dillwat Leave a comment

26th July 2013

Pembroke – St Governs Head

Army Dreamers – HVS 5a – Lead
But Incest is Best – E1 5b – Second
Bomb Bay – VS 4c – Lead
The Loosener – HVS 5a – Second
The Arrow – E1 5b – Second

Pembroke is surprisingly further than you think. Looking at the map it shouldnt be so far, but a small matter of the bristol Channel gets in the way. Having said that Nick and I made remarkably good time getting up there on Thursday night turning up at St Petrocs campsite full of curry ( a re-occurring theme of this trip) and ready to get a good nights sleep in before hitting the crags the next day.

I had no idea what to expect from Pembroke except from Nicks comments on how good it was. In fact I didnt even realise it was limestone and not granite. So after a short walk in to St Governs Head we duly abseiled onto the high tide platform in Army Dreamers area.

View down the Coast towards Stennis Head

At this point I probably experienced what many new climbers do in an area of such steep rock. Awe. The whole cliff is vertical (it sounds obvious, but so much of what we climb in Cornwall is not) and when you look down the coast each way it goes on for mile after mile. I’ve never seen so much climbing packed into one part of the coast.

I kicked off initially on Army Dreamers mistaking it for a VS instead of an HVS. It didnt matter, The climbing is completely absorbing. A nervy traverse turns into some full on crack climbing. The whole route is excellent and was a brilliant intro to Welsh limestone. By time I finished my arms were suitably pumped. Nick said this would be good training for stamina and I was starting to understand why.

But Incest is Best is much harder. More sustained and overhanging it has a really difficult section at mid height which takes some working out and a bit of nerve if you are on the lead like Nick. Although shorter it too eats into your stamina. I was realising that one aspect of climbing here was to keep moving if possible.

I never go anywhere without having at least one mare. Looking down from BIIB I saw a crack running up the opposite wall. Believing myself to have suddenly turned into a crack climbing maestro I decided this would be a good challenge. It stopped me dead in my tracks. Saty hands and a lack of technique did for me and I had to hand over to Nick to show me how it should be done. I have a way to go before I get the hang of this ‘jamming’ thing.

The amazing The Arrow - Nick near the rising flake. — The amazing The Arrow – Nick near the rising flake.

Bomb Bay flattered to deceive. It looks brilliant from the ground, but a very loose top section detracts from it. I enjoyed it, but there were some worrying moments.

Nick just before the hard moves onto the upper slab. The Arrow

Now The Arrow is in a class of its own. Nick, not satisfied with picking a cracker of a route also wanted to see his belayer drown as entertainment. With the sun setting and the tide rising Nick set off up a great climb. A bold start leads to a rising flake. This in turn gives way to a thin section leading to the upper slab. A final traverse gets you to the top. It is a classic climb which takes advantage of all the features in that area. I loved it and managed to jump up onto a large rock to escape a soaking which looked inevitable earlier.

Tired we both returned to the campsite for a plateful of Rogan Riddell (minus the tomatoes which gave it a very un appetising grey colour). St Petrocs is a really nice site. Not too busy on this weekend, but with good facilities and a flat pitch. Definitely a good base when in the area.

Bomb Bay before the loose stuff near the top.

Climbing

Interplanetary travel

July 14, 2013 dillwat Leave a comment

13th July 2013

Carn Gowla

Mercury – E2 5b – Alt Lead

Guaranteed adventure. That’s what Gowla always promises and that’s exactly what it delivered on this day and by the bucketful.

This had been a long sought after route for Nick, especially as he started it a few years back but had to abandon the top pitch because of the damp. So on a glorious morning we set off to complete the mission.

Half of the difficulty in tackling Mercury is in the preparation. You need a pre placed belay rope because of the loose nature of the top out. This has to be positioned above the main slab. However you also need an ab rope which is positioned across to the right facing out. This requires an 80m odd diagonal descent to reach the starting ledge.

So it was some last minute skills training for me in how to pass a knot. To be fair I love all of this. It’s part of the overall event of climbing a route like Mercury. But what it does do is add to the nerves. Mercury is a serious route. Probably not the most technically difficult route, but the difficulty level is high because of all the paraphernalia that accompanies it.

The first pitch strikes up the corner crack aiming for a very convenient ledge at half height. A series of jamming and bridging moves gets you to the offwidth crack. This stopped me dead in my tracks. To be fair I initially didnt have a clue how I was going to get up it. A few nervous giggles later I launched into a series of udge’s and grunts (technical lingo) that enabled me to gain enough height to take advantage of a convenient foot placement and the placing of a ‘thank God’ cam in a small undercut. Dutch courage restored I gave it everything to pull up through to the flake making it by the skin of my teeth. How satisfying was that!

View from the crux offwidth having made it halfway. Little cam in!!

My work done I relaxed on the ledge as Nick came up choosing to completely reverse my technique facing left rather than right. It worked though and we both contemplated pitch two from the ledge.

The pre requisit pose before starting on the bold Pitch 2 of Mercury

Woo Hwoo. Pitch two is a different proposition completely. It didnt help that we’d left the guidebook behind and the line is not obvious. Nick set about making it ten times as difficult as it should be. Bloody show off! Commiting to a really thin traverse across to a dubious looking peg in the middle of the upper face I muttered encouragement. 25ft out with no gear, the peg decided to fall off as Nick clearly looked at it too harshly. Three rubbish bits of gear later Nick set off up the head wall finding little else in the way of protection and finally deciding to traverse back left a put some gear in the top of the original groove.

As it turned out this is where he should have started the traverse, but Nick clearly wanted to the crux moves at least three times to get full satisfaction out of the climb. It was an amazing effort in my opinion. Having made the same set of moves a bit later I know I wouldnt have been able to keep my head together.

In the end though it all turned out well with loads of whoops accompanying the completion of a really memorable route, probably the high point of my climbing so far in terms of an overall accomplishment and a fantastic day out at Gowla.

I’ve done Mercury for God’s sake!!!!

Top of the groove. Where we should have been.

The mist just added to Gowla’s awe inspiring scenary.

Nick disappearing in the fog. All we needed was pirates.

Climbing

Dont forget your vitamin supplements

April 19, 2013 dillwat Leave a comment

Chudleigh Rocks

19th April 2013

Great Western – VS 5a – Alt Lead
The Slot – HVS 5a – Lead
Sarcophagus – VS 4b – Alt Lead

At last we have the first proper summer day. Chudleigh delivered on the sunshine and the fun and gave our wintery white pasty bodies a treat of Vitamin D and a boost of energy.

After a number of alternative locations had been considered we chose Chudleigh and as it turned out it was the right place to be. Sometimes Chudleigh suffers from seepage, but the rain had kept off the limestone for a few days and it was in perfect condition.

Nick and I started off on Great Western, a VS which weaves its way up the most southerly face. Its brilliant and Nick was considerate enough to let me link pitches 2 & 3 together so I got to tackle the testing overhang on P3. P1 is no push over though. A delicate traverse up to the belay which is capped off by a tricky mantle which Nick cruised through.

I was not quite so smooth on the overhang. Dithering over a micro which I eventually backed up by clipping the peg (should’ve done that in the first place). Its a great move though and once I got going it was fine.

Meanwhile Tom and Pete were working their way up the glassy Barn Owl Crack which I gather is not so enjoyable. However they made up for it with ascents of Salome and the inappropriately named Wogs, both of which were very good. Considering it was their first time on Limestone, they both seemed to take to it well. Limestone is very different from Granite and Chudleigh acts the additional dimention of ‘polish’ which can make even the easiest climb seem treacherous.

Dave on the exposed top pitch of Never on a Sunday

Dave and Chris started on an HS called Never on a Sunday. This takes a striking line up the face with the final pitch being very photogenic. By all accounts the exposure on this pitch is equally dramatic. And then of course Inkerman Groove, a must. Both Chris and Dave were raving by the end; quite understandably because it is an outstanding climb with one of the most memorable traverses you’ll find.

Top pitch of Never on a Sunday a tough HS

For me, climb 2 was The Slot. Nicks smile should have given away what the Slot would deliver. My smile was firmly absent whilst I tried to work out how to move up into ‘the slot’. Having got there things didnt get easier. The main crack is seriously hard work, but the higher you go the less strenuous it becomes. I was really pleased to get this one as it was a tough.

The best though was saved till last. Sarcophagus is a fantastic journey up a corner with truly three dimensional climbing. According to all that you read it is a nightmare of polish but this is only part of the story. Yes the opening moves are tense and Nick had to take care with pro and the moves over very polished foot placements. But once past this you get so absorbed in the climbing through grooves and overhangs that both of us agreed you become oblivious to any wear. I thought it was engrossing and in the end over too quickly. Even the top pitch (Nick ran the bottom two together which made a lot of sense) finishes off the climb nicely leaving lts of smiles.

A pint of local ale on the way back topped off a great day out although probably we would have been wiser to drink water not alcohol. But where’s the fun in that!

Opening moves are a bit polished on Sarcophagus

Dave on Never on a Sunday with blue skies!

Chris on the belay at the top of P1 NOAS

Climbing

One demon down. Another one added…..

September 8, 2012 dillwat Leave a comment

8th September 2012

Pordenack Point / Carn Boel

Friends – VS 5a – Lead
Immaculate Groove – E1 5b – Second

A really foggy morning greeted us from our tents at Treen. Treen has a great campsite and was a good choice of venue for the BMC meet. Shame then that most of the BMC was at Treverven Farm campsite on the other side of the valley! It appears Treen hadnt been warned so we ended up on the wrong site.

Even with an inauspicious start the day turned out to be a cracker. The previous evening in the Logan Rock I’d arranged with Nick to meet at Pordenack which would give me a chance to have another go at Friends, the VS that had bested me previously.

P9080394 — Hot. The weather that is... not me!

With everything heating up nicely Tony and Joe set up for the tricky Nothing Much. I set off hoping that things would be easier second time around. They werent. But Friends is such a good climb. Once you are past the overhang the pressure is on to get through it. There are no good rests so by time I reached the atmospheric top out I was fairly pumped, but well chuffed to have made it clean this time.

P9080399 — Tony on the final section of Nothing Much

For Tony, it was straight in at the deep end on Nothing Much but he made a good fist of it, making it clean and getting Joe’s pro out, including the bit he fell on doing the difficult traverse. I think after three HVS’s in a row Joe was pretty knackered.

P9080402 — Me and Nick after some strenuous climbing on Immaculate Groove

Nick had his eye on an E1 on the point across the bay called Carn Boel. Immaculate Groove turned out to be just that. A brilliant technical slab leads to a brutal overhang which needs to be dealt with through jamming. Nick made the slab look straight forward, but found the crack tough on the overhang. Fair play though, he made it even if it cost a little blood. I didnt fair so well, slipping on the slab and then just running out of energy and strength when I needed it most.

So a fair trade. One nemisis conquered in Friends and another created in Immaculate Groove. I will return…

The upper section of Carn Boel, called Terrace Cliff has some meandering routes. From the bottom they look poor, but actually they offer good climbing. I’ve done Kari before which turned out to be a tough V Diff. Tom led Bitter End, another challenging climb which goes up through the heart of the cliff.

P9080403 — Pordenack Point from Carn Boel

And so ended another great weekend. Lots of good routes and good company.

Climbing

Sugar Rush (ish)

May 21, 2012 dillwat Leave a comment

19th May 2012
Sennen

Zig Zag – HVS 5a – Lead
Dextrose – HVS 5a – Second

Meeting up with Nick later in the day seemed to suggest that we would be struggling for time, particularly as we both had arrangements for later on. However being Sennen and only single pitches we bagged two classic HVS’s.

We also met up with Rowena and James who were just finishing off Demo Route. It was watching them that drew my attention to Zig Zag a route I had long admired. Its a truly striking lightning slash down the wall at the north end of the crag. Watching another climber wrestling with the succession of niches and cracks gave me a hint of what was to come, although once on the climb I got a full on sweat on.

Nick’s monster cam came in very handy in protecting what was the crux move. This is an akward move, one that felt as though I could be off at any moment. Instead of jamming I went for the layback which is what probably made it feel more precarious. By time I topped out I was fairly pumped but chuffed to bits that I’d made it. Nick was also chuffed I made it as he avoided a soaking from the fast rising tide which had tried to get him earlier on.

Then it was across to the Southern side of the crack and Dextrose. I’d had a go at Dexter a while back but was defeated by the cold. No problem with that this time, but Dextrose turned out to be a cracker. Its a weird climb really, not taking the obvious line, but taking a loop across the face and finally approaching from the other direction. It’ sthis that makes it so good.

It’s hard too. I wouldnt have had a problem with giving it E1. The stretch across the face is made more airy because you have to move up when really all you want to do is go sideways. The rounded groove is also tough and this is capped off by gear which you have to work hard to place. A good lead from Nick and imo one of the Classic routes at Sennen.

The final move over the top provides a suitable sting in the tail as well. The rock though is superb. All in all great fun and one I may try leading in the future.

Climbing

The wait is over

August 5, 2011 dillwat Leave a comment

30th July 2011
Bosigran
Little Brown Jug – VS 5a – Lead
Grendel – E2 5c – Second (dnf)

This was to be an iconic day for me. Little Brown Jug has been watching me for years now, waiting for me to climb it. Sometimes you get into a rut – LBJ was like this. I desperately wanted to do it, but every time I went I found an excuse not to. Anyway, Nick put paid to that. His advice of “Get on it before it gets too busy” drove me to climb it.

It was worth the wait. Chris tackled an alternative start which made a lot more sense than the traditional route. We headed up the first pitch of Doorway and Chris who’s getting right back into his leading made short work of it.

The top pitch of LBJ is just remarkable. It’s challenging from the begiining. The move off the belay ledge stopped me in my tracks and took some figuring out. It pays to be bolder here and move out from the inviting corner. The holds then start to arrive.

The crux is just that. The crux. The peg is gone now (I was at the BMC meeting when someone brought the remnants of it along!) but there is protection there if you look for it. It pays to be a little taller for this but you find it by gradually moving up. Delicate and balancy moves get you through this section which is amazing. Heart in mouth stuff but its what climbing is all about and I loved it.

The final section is a crank for the top. Wild but with good holds and is an exhilerating end to one of the best climbs I’ve ever done. Chris, Nick and I were full of smiles at the end testimony to why LBJ is so iconic.

Now Grendell…… This was up a few levels in difficulty. It didnt help that it was baking hot at this point leading to sweaty hands and greasey foot placements. (Thats the excuses out the way early). Nick made abrilliant effort on this. The bottom crack is tough and the niche which imo is the crux of the route was very difficult for me and Chris. There is a point where the holds run out and you have to rely very much on foot friction. In my case this wasnt quite enough and I slid off twice. Very frustrating as I am sure I can do this.

That said, Nick worked hard for this which is an indication to me of its difficulty. A small fall on the crux did not take away what was a brilliant lead.

So now it was a choice between an HVS or a jump in the sea to cool off at Halladrine Cove. Of course the sea won and quite rightly on this day. It was take your breath away entries into the water but after that I got the light burning sensation you get on your skin from swimming in a cool sea. Amazing feeling and a stunning way to end the day.

I think by this time Guiness and Mutley had just about had enough having been dragged all around Bosigran and all they were thinking about was curling up and sleep. We hover headed for the Gurnards Head for chill down pint and to discuss the days highlights of which there were many.

Climbing

What a difference the sun makes.

July 29, 2011 dillwat Leave a comment

9th July 2011

Carn Gowla

Four for Texas – E1 5a – Second

Rainbow Games – E2 5b – Second

After three weeks away in Corsica where I worked my legs hard but not my arms, this was a short sharp reminder on how to climb.

Carn Gowla is renown as a scary location. High seacliffs, with shear drops toward the sea and a forbidding darkness make them feel threatening. However add a dash of sunshine like we had and the place feels a lot more amenable. Part of the scariness comes from the steeply sloping grassy cliff tops which appear to disappear at the cliff edge.

In reality the drop offs are not so bad. There are a number of platforms which you can use as gearing up ledges and we duly located one above the Triple Buttress area. An ab down saw us on a fairly substantial belay ledge, although with a rising tide and some swell it felt a bit exposed.

Nick had a couple of E grades in mind and from the gearing up ledge they looked brilliant. Once at the base they looked even better. Nick has been pushing his grades recently and it showed as he cruised up Rainbow Games, a very pumpy and sustained E2. The pro is pretty good and the holds excellent, but you are on power the whole time. I would have struggled leading just on the basis of sustained effort. The move off the ledge is no pushover either. At the end of the day though it was an amazing climb and I managed it cleanly which boosted my confidence no end.

Four for Texas is actually an easier climb, but the pro is not as good and more care is needed with the holds which are more brittle. It is still very good though and because of the juggy holds is a real pleasure to climb. If I had to choose to lead one it would be RG.

So ended a great return to climbing which has inspired me to want to go on and add to my lonely E1.

Climbing

Old woods and suntan lotion…. but no Devil!

April 8, 2011 dillwat Leave a comment

8th April 2011

The Dewerstone

Central Groove – HS 4B – Alt Lead
Leviathon – VS 4C – Lead
Climbers Club Direct – HVS 5Aa – Second

According to something I read on the net (not always the most reliable source of ‘true’ information), “The Dewerstone, on the southern edge of Dartmoor is supposedly a favourite haunt of the Devil. With his pack of wisht hounds he would drive sinners to the edge of the cliff, never once touching them, where they would then fall onto the jagged rocks below.”

Well, from my perspective the woods would be better described as stunning and mythical. A beautiful stream flowing through and sunlight beaming through the gaps in the trees does not make them threatening at all. And the climbing is amazing. This must go down as one of my favorite days. Three contrasting climbs, gradually building in intensity.

Bart, Chris and I turned up early and set about Central Groove straight away. This is an amazing line following the main groove and then breaking right for a final finish up an amazing corner. Unfortunately I forgot that the 1st belay point would be in the full sun and so I paid the price with a thorough ‘cooking’ on an exposed ledge. The views though made up for it, with a vista across the tops of the trees across and up the valley.

Dewerstone_DSCF0011

The climb itself is slightly polished, but not so that you notice. It is so compelling with good gear throughout. Just complete fun climbing and one of the best routes I’ve done. Bart enjoyed himself as well – his first multi pitch route for a while, but he breezed up it as did Chris, who led the second pitch and the final corner/crack, which is the icing on the cake.

Dewerstone_Apr11-031

Leviathon is a bit more committing. A tough Groove which I found best to bridge. More powerful and needs more thought, but fine at the grade with adequate pro. I loved it and I can understand why it makes it onto the list of top VS’s in the country. A little slip got my heart going and the final pull over on slopers made me nervous.

OK. Now Climbers Club Direct is a different kettle of fish. Many of the climbs at Dewerstone need jamming, but CCD needs lots of it. Nick did a brilliant job of leading it and made the initial crack look straight forward. Which it is, until you actually try to climb it. Chris joined my ‘keep trying’ club from the previous week. I struggled to work out the way to move up, but it boiled down to a small foothold and plenty of faith.

Dewerstone_Apr11-059

Dewerstone_Apr11-095

For me though the suprise was the second pitch which turned ut to be exceptional. Given 4c in the book this is better thought of as 5b territory and very bold in places for the leader. A series of amazing jams and bridges got me up and a pitch I will not forget any time soon.

So ended an exceptional day and all I want to do now is get back on the rock. Role on next FRiday.

This links to all the photos

The Magik Rock

Tag Archives: Nick

Getting your tactics right

The adventures of Jimmy Noropes

If Carlsberg made crags……

Interplanetary travel

Dont forget your vitamin supplements

One demon down. Another one added…..

Sugar Rush (ish)

The wait is over

What a difference the sun makes.

9th July 2011

Carn Gowla

Four for Texas – E1 5a – Second

Rainbow Games – E2 5b – Second

Old woods and suntan lotion…. but no Devil!

Why it never rains on a Friday!