27th February 2010
Bosigran
Doorway (Pitch 1) – Severe 4a – Second
Doorpost (Pitch 2ish) – HS 4b – Lead
Anvil Chorus – VS 4c – Second
Heavy rain the night before and some intermitant showers made this an unlikely classic day, but you never know how things will turn out. A quick decision at Tesco’s in Penzance meant we were en route to Bosi. The sun kept peeking out between dark rain clouds but the forecast was good. This was the first time Joe and I had climbed with Nick so I was hoping for a good day and so it turned out.
Having said that we arrived at the base of the crag to see everything soaked by a short shower. Surrounded by rainbows we decided on a Doorway/Doorpost hybrid to warm up, which turned out to be great fun. The doorway pitch proved testing in the damp conditions, but it is amazing how fast the cliffs dry. After Nicks lead (I wimped out in the wet) I set out on the last two thirds of Doorposts second pitch. Brilliant exposure on great holds – love it – leads you out onto one of Bosi’s great pitches. I seconded this one last time here so it was good to have a go on the lead.
Nick had mentioned he wanted to have a go at Anvil Chorus so after lunch it was back onto another classic climb.
With the light becoming ever more spectacular as dark clouds formed up around us, Joe set out on the first pitch (linking the two bottom pitches into one. On the second part of this is a dark niche passed on the right by a bold move up onto the arete. Joe made a brilliant job of this, clearly enjoying himself up there.
The third pitch of AC is the classic pitch, although I think the climb as a whole has great variety. This pitch, follows a vertical double crack and then breaks right in a traverse to a final mantelshelf. The fact I found it difficult as a seconder makes me understand that it must be a difficult lead. Removing the gear needs good strength and stamina, so placing it must be hard as well. Having said that, it must be one of the all time great pitches of Bosi, exposed and technical. There are foot placements that allow you to use the faces as well, but ultimately laybacking is the approach.
When Nick set off, it was almost a ‘Little Big Horn’ situation with the weather. We were surrounded by black clouds with squalls off the coast and a haze of rain over towards Pendeen lighthouse. If I’m honest I thought we would make it, but Nicks call was perfect (for me and him). Unfortunately Joe ended up climbing the pitch in a rain shower which soaked everything. Powerful arms and determination saw him to the top finishing one of the best climbs I’ve ever done.
You feel like you’ve achieved something when you sneek in ahead of the weather like this. Rain either side of out session, but in between great climbing and great fun.
The rest of the phots can be seen here.
We are so lucky to live down here.
