Monthly Archives: January 2010

Climbing

What a difference a week makes

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30th January 2010

Clodgy Point
Undercut Wall Area

Problem 60 4a
Problem 63b 4b

Clodgy_Jan10-009

Last week we were basking in temperatures in the teens with bright sunshine. Today it was 5 degrees, windy and snowing at times. Clodgy is about 10-15 mins pleasant walk from the beach. If it had been warmer it would have been a bit more friendly, but it was brooding with dark snow squalls passing by off the coast.

Clodgy_Jan10-003Clodgy_Jan10-002

Joe was recovering from a bad back so this was never intended to be a full on session – more of a scouting mission. On arrival we dropped down to the Undercut Wall Area which was a bit more sheltered. I had a go on a couple of nice short routes, although the slab 0n 63b feels high up. It snowed during both which was strange, especially in Cornwall.

Clodgy_Jan10-004

There is so much climbing around this area its unbeleivable. Route after route. I played on a 6a traverse but ultimately I was not strong enough. With a bit more effort I think I could complete it so I’ll be on this one again. Joe and i have earmarked this as an after work venue for the Spring. A good place to beef up the muscles, but good fun too.

Climbing

Dont use your knees!!

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23rd January 2010
Aire Point

Various E numbers on the overhangs

Top Roping

Aire-Point_Jan10

After my last outing in the freezing cold up at Sheeps Tor I was wary about just jumping on a climb until I’d tested my fitness and what better way than a session of top roping when you can just go for it.

Aire-Point_Jan10---Sennen

Aire Point is amazing. Immaculate fresh granite, with loads of little problems and some big ones too. Given Joe’s penache for overhangs we couldnt resist the ledge at one third height with a series of breaks all of which looked feasible.

Aire-Point_Jan10---Joe2Aire-Point_Jan10---Joe
Aire-Point_Jan10---Ian2Aire-Point_Jan10---Ian

However once on them we were taught a quick lesson that what looks possible is sometimes a bit harder. We practiced on Dick Dastardley E2 5b, Spitfire E3 5C and Wiki Wiki Wheels E3 6a.

Aire-Point_Jan10---Chris4Aire-Point_Jan10---Chris2

At the end of the day we managed two of the three overhangs, Spitfire getting the better of us and none of us made the face climbs which proved very difficult. However these were not beyond us and given a few months of climbing and getting fit, I rekon we could make them all.

Aire-Point_Jan10---Chris3

Aire-Point_Jan10---Chris

Its good sometimes to concentrate on climbing rather than the other aspects of leading. It becomes more of a physical challenge rather than a mental one. The overhangs provided the grunt work on the day, forcing you to go on power from the offset. It is a case of postioning your feet right to assist getting your hands on the right holds. Once you got it, it became easier. It didnt help that by time we made the face we were knackered, but Chris made a good job of getting high up before reach defeated him.

Aire-Point_Jan10---contemplAire-Point_Jan10---Crag

Despite constantly telling Chris not to use his knees he showed blatant disregard for this advice throwing himself off a rock on the descent and using his knee as a break pad. I think he did this deliberately so that Joe and I would carry his gear out. And the crutches were just for a simpathy vote. Lame…

Aire Point is great and has now beedn esacallated to one of my all time favourite places to climb… that is until we go somewhere else.