Tag Archives: Aire Point

Should have gone Surfin…..

24th January 2020
Aire Point
Night Flight – Severe – Second

On the odd occasion you realise you’ve picked the wrong sport. This was one of those days. We rocked up to Gwenver for a stroll to Aire Point, only to see an amazing left peeling in towards the point. Low tide with the bank almost exposed, I rekon it was about as good as it gets.

Unfortunately there wasnt a board between us and so we had to settle for a chilled day mooching around the point. It was just the wrong side of damp so many of the routes were not in condition for climbing, but our explorations identified a cluster of routes tucked away at the head of the small zawn that cuts through the seawrd face. These are going to be worth a return visit, but maybe when it is warmer and drier. Would suit a nice sunny evening.

Instead we sat around a lot (either side of Daves excellent lead on the cruxy Night Flight) and talked about how luck we were to spend relaxing days, doing very little with good mates. A little bit ‘Last of the Summer Wine’ really 🙂

Unfinished business

Aire Point / John Wayne Memorial Crag

14th March 2013

Biggles Flies Undone – HVS 5a – Second
Hit The Deck, Here She Comes – HVS 5b – Lead
Stagecoach – VS 5c – Lead

The first day of proper spring is what it felt like. Actual warm sunshine and blue skies. Deceptive because coming in behing this day were gales and heavy rain. Still we made the most of the window with a trip to Sennen Cove.

Back towards Sennen

The views on this day were stunning. As Tom said, the granite seemed to cahnge colour all day depending on the height and intensity of the Sun. A couple of very spectacular venues.

View back towards Aire Point with the prominent lines of Airplane and BFU

After checking out John Wayne Memorial Crag we spotted the lines we wanted to do but they needed a little more drying so we started on Aire Point. Chris and Tom on Aireline, a tough VS taking on the definative chimney in the centre of the crag and Joe tackling Biggles Flies Undone, an HVS I had had my eye on for a while but which I deferred to Joe because I didnt want him to cry and humiliate himself in front of the rest of the crew.

Joe mid crux on Biggles Flies Undone

Turns out it was tougher than first appearances suggested. The real problems are short lived but require a bit of commitment. There is little for your fet at first and placing pro is strenuous. Joe made a good job of it before blasting up the top thank god flake. A top start to the day.

Making our way back to JWMC

We returned to JWMC and set about the two HVS 5b’s. Chris on Regans Regression and me on Hit The Deck, Here She Comes (variation) We both suffered the same ignominious defeat. For me, it was my stamina that let me down. I’ve got to get that sorted. Howver HTDHSC is a very good climb and I want another go at it to clean it. Chris and I intend to return soon to complete our respective ‘projects’.

Tom on the deceptively difficult Sheriff VS 4c

As a finale Chris and Tom went for Sheriff, an outwardly innocuous VS but one which proves decidedly move difficult with technical moves on the upper slab.

The balancy final moves of Sheriff

Suprisingly Joe wanted a go at the 5c route Stagecoach (insert irony here). Clearly he hadnt fallen off anything yet and wanted the opportunity. Stagecoach provided it. It is really a one sequence wonder with excellent pro.

Joe tops out the 5c section of Stagecoach having given blood to the cause

Get a couple of nuts in and go for it (Pete that’s your red Metollius we scratched up).

Pete. Do you recognise this!……

After going up and down a couple of times I eventualy went for it and suprisingly made it. The barn door potential is the problem as Joe found out. However in the end we both did it and capped off a grand day out.

A day which left everyone knackered but feeling good. A word of warning though. The walk out from Aire Point is a beast after a long day and with a heavy pack. Be prepared.

 

Dont use your knees!!

23rd January 2010
Aire Point

Various E numbers on the overhangs

Top Roping

Aire-Point_Jan10

After my last outing in the freezing cold up at Sheeps Tor I was wary about just jumping on a climb until I’d tested my fitness and what better way than a session of top roping when you can just go for it.

Aire-Point_Jan10---Sennen

Aire Point is amazing. Immaculate fresh granite, with loads of little problems and some big ones too. Given Joe’s penache for overhangs we couldnt resist the ledge at one third height with a series of breaks all of which looked feasible.

Aire-Point_Jan10---Joe2Aire-Point_Jan10---Joe
Aire-Point_Jan10---Ian2Aire-Point_Jan10---Ian

However once on them we were taught a quick lesson that what looks possible is sometimes a bit harder. We practiced on Dick Dastardley E2 5b, Spitfire E3 5C and Wiki Wiki Wheels E3 6a.

Aire-Point_Jan10---Chris4Aire-Point_Jan10---Chris2

At the end of the day we managed two of the three overhangs, Spitfire getting the better of us and none of us made the face climbs which proved very difficult. However these were not beyond us and given a few months of climbing and getting fit, I rekon we could make them all.

Aire-Point_Jan10---Chris3

Aire-Point_Jan10---Chris

Its good sometimes to concentrate on climbing rather than the other aspects of leading. It becomes more of a physical challenge rather than a mental one. The overhangs provided the grunt work on the day, forcing you to go on power from the offset. It is a case of postioning your feet right to assist getting your hands on the right holds. Once you got it, it became easier. It didnt help that by time we made the face we were knackered, but Chris made a good job of getting high up before reach defeated him.

Aire-Point_Jan10---contemplAire-Point_Jan10---Crag

Despite constantly telling Chris not to use his knees he showed blatant disregard for this advice throwing himself off a rock on the descent and using his knee as a break pad. I think he did this deliberately so that Joe and I would carry his gear out. And the crutches were just for a simpathy vote. Lame…

Aire Point is great and has now beedn esacallated to one of my all time favourite places to climb… that is until we go somewhere else.