11th July 2010 Carn Kenidjack

Saxon (Original) – HVS 4c, 4c – Alt Lead P1
RockDancer – E1 5b – Second

After our previous attempt (Nick and I ) to climb at Kenidjack which ended in a thorough drenching we were hoping for more favourable weather. We had cancelled our arrangements for both Friday and Saturday because of the weather report so this was our last chance and things turned out well.

We had targeted three climbs. In the end Thane turned out to be a bit ambitious in the time (especially given my turn of speed) and an attempt at Gneiss Gnome ended in retreat when I found fledglings on a ledge part way up. So it was straight into Saxon and what a climb!

A strenuous start sees you pull up onto a long sloping ramp. The guides are a bit all over the place here in terms of route finding. One says to go to keep going almost to the end of the sloping ramp/crack. The opther suggests tackling the smooth large niche directly. The latter is bold with little gear and does not seem right and the first avoids the main face which is at the heart of Saxon.

So instead I went just to the left of the niche and followed a logical line from there. Great holds and foot placements and adequate gear takes you up the exposed face. Its brilliant fun and once my nerves were settled I loved it. The traverse is straight forward but exhillerating and to cap it I made a hash of the belay in my excitement. Safe, but not making best use of the large block.

Nick finished the top pitch off leaving me to untangle myself. The move off the belay is tricky and you have to move a few metres before gear becomes available, but it caps Saxon off in a suitable way. For me, this is one of the best climbs I’ve done and I want to do it again!

Climb two was equally as good. Bold in places needing a lot of work to find good gear. Again a strenuous start and for half the climb the holds kepp coming. Then you pass a central horizontl crack and the climb ramps everything up a notch. From here on you have to work hard, culminating in a fantastic move up onto a thin ledge (the crux for me). Find the hidden holds……

An excellent lead from Nick who as usual climbed with style. For me… I was left feeling really satisfied with the route which challenged me and pushed me into moves I dont often have to make when on my usual VS’s. A great confidence booster making me want more.

The weather held off and Kenidjack provided its usual spectacular scenery from our lunch spot.

Cornwall just keeps providing. Role on next week.