30th July 2011
Bosigran
Little Brown Jug – VS 5a – Lead
Grendel – E2 5c – Second (dnf)
This was to be an iconic day for me. Little Brown Jug has been watching me for years now, waiting for me to climb it. Sometimes you get into a rut – LBJ was like this. I desperately wanted to do it, but every time I went I found an excuse not to. Anyway, Nick put paid to that. His advice of “Get on it before it gets too busy” drove me to climb it.
It was worth the wait. Chris tackled an alternative start which made a lot more sense than the traditional route. We headed up the first pitch of Doorway and Chris who’s getting right back into his leading made short work of it.
The top pitch of LBJ is just remarkable. It’s challenging from the begiining. The move off the belay ledge stopped me in my tracks and took some figuring out. It pays to be bolder here and move out from the inviting corner. The holds then start to arrive.
The crux is just that. The crux. The peg is gone now (I was at the BMC meeting when someone brought the remnants of it along!) but there is protection there if you look for it. It pays to be a little taller for this but you find it by gradually moving up. Delicate and balancy moves get you through this section which is amazing. Heart in mouth stuff but its what climbing is all about and I loved it.
The final section is a crank for the top. Wild but with good holds and is an exhilerating end to one of the best climbs I’ve ever done. Chris, Nick and I were full of smiles at the end testimony to why LBJ is so iconic.
Now Grendell…… This was up a few levels in difficulty. It didnt help that it was baking hot at this point leading to sweaty hands and greasey foot placements. (Thats the excuses out the way early). Nick made abrilliant effort on this. The bottom crack is tough and the niche which imo is the crux of the route was very difficult for me and Chris. There is a point where the holds run out and you have to rely very much on foot friction. In my case this wasnt quite enough and I slid off twice. Very frustrating as I am sure I can do this.
That said, Nick worked hard for this which is an indication to me of its difficulty. A small fall on the crux did not take away what was a brilliant lead.
So now it was a choice between an HVS or a jump in the sea to cool off at Halladrine Cove. Of course the sea won and quite rightly on this day. It was take your breath away entries into the water but after that I got the light burning sensation you get on your skin from swimming in a cool sea. Amazing feeling and a stunning way to end the day.
I think by this time Guiness and Mutley had just about had enough having been dragged all around Bosigran and all they were thinking about was curling up and sleep. We hover headed for the Gurnards Head for chill down pint and to discuss the days highlights of which there were many.
