Monthly Archives: November 2012

Climbing

Enter the real fishermen

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23rd November 2012

Cribba Head

Unlike Siobhan – HVS 4c – Lead
Kernyk – HS 4b – Second
Boysens Cracks – E2 5c – Lead (dnf)

Talk  about the lull between storms. This was like climbing in the eye of the storm. Thursday was torrential, with full on gales and Saturday was a never ending downpour. Friday. Well Friday was dry and sunny as most Fridays have been this year. Its been very strange.

The highlight of the day was the pod of porpoise which roamed off the point and into the bay between Cribba Head and Logan Rock. The poor fisherman down below us didnt stand a chance. These critters really know how to catch fish and watching them ‘porpoise’ was wonderful.

Unlike Siobhan – The areteon the right of the chimney

In between this we got some top climbing in. I started on Unilke Siobhan an HVS which follows a set of overlaps up the arete on the left of the main face. Surprisingly I found this really enjoyable. I had to rely on the incredible grippy nature of the granite at Cribba (its very crystalline) as the route requires lots of smearing. Placing gear is tricky too, but its all there. Mind a fall into the gap might result in a few grazes.

OK. Now which way

Dave then got the chance to lead Kernyk. I remember from my own experience that its much harder than it first appears, especially in its upper reaches. Dave managed to contort himself into all the usual shapes the climb dictates, but as has been his forte over the past few months he climbed it in a contrlled and steady way.

Tom high on Kernyk

I dont think it will be long before he moves onto VS’s

Boysens Cracks

We finished on Boysens Cracks. I know I can lead this route, so why I f*#$k*d up so badly is beyond me. It was the crux move that undid me; I just didnt go for it and paid the price. I dont know why,. Pro’s good but my stamina was abit lacking. I’ll be back to do this and a number of the harder routes I’ve failed on recently. Time to get strong….

Gives an idea of how much Boysens Cracks leans out

Tom made a good fist of it making it to the top crack before tying his hands up in knots. A good route for a top rope and getting those fingers working.

Climbing

Just the one Magpie

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16th November 2012

The Dewerstone

Fly on the Wall – HS 4b – Lead
Needle Arete – V Diff – Second

Toms firm belief that he would could to a bad end on his lead was founded in the good old Magpie superstition. Not that I’m immune from it;  I too wave/salute Magpie’s when I see them, but Tom extended this a bit further than I normally do.

For all the fact a single Magpie signifies bad luck, it confined itself to our drive home where we ended up stuck in two road blockages due to accidents which made for a late day. The day itself was great, with The Dewerstone glowing gold in its autumn colours and the upper buttresses drying quickly making for good climbing.

View across to Fly on the Wall P2

I hadnt even heard of Fly on the Wall, but as we arrived at Raven Buttress it seemed the obvious route to pick. The first pitch is fine with a straight forward crack to negotiate, but for me its the second pitch which makes the route. Exposed with positive holds and reasonable pro it traverses under an overhang to a pumpy pull up into a finishing groove. Great fun!

Pitch 1 Needle Arete

Then it was Tom’s turn with all his superstitious baggage in tow. Needle Arete is a superb V Diff. We started on pitch two because of the damp, but this culminates in a strenuous pull up through a niche  to a tree belay.

Damn Magpies!!

The next pitch initially looks unlikely at the grade. A right to left rising crack cuts across a steep and quite blank looking wall. For Tom this was the crux. However with good pro in, he cruised to the arete and the exposed finishing moves. Tom 1 – Magpie 0.

Tom completes the exposed top move on Needle Arete

As Fridays seem to be the best day for weather  in 2012 we shouldnt have been suprised it held off right up to the point we left. Strange that. For such a wet year, Friday has proved as reliable as a clock for turning out dry. Lets hope it continues.

Walking

The bleaker the better

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1st – 4th November 2012

Snowdonia

This is becoming a regular outing, one way or another. On this occasion Dave, Tom, Chris and Tony were along for the trip, with a cameo from Bart and his mate Adam. And each year brings something a little different. Last year it was torrential rain, with the paths flowing like rivers; the year before heavy snow and this year probably somewhere in the middle. Only once have the conditions been spot on for climbing, so maybe its time to move the trip to earlier in the year.

Contemplating the North Ridge

In usual fashion we arrived in the dark to set up on a very wet site. My tent decided it had had enough and became wetter on the inside than outside. For a Macpac I’m a bit disappointed. They are regarded as bombproof but this is anything but, with the bucket sheet losing its hydrostatic ability completely. Still, Macpac have offered to replace it, so it’s not all bad.

Getting stuck in

The two days ended up being centred around walking and scrambling. Not a bad thing, although I’d set my heart on climbing. The hills had a fair amount of snow on them and the decision to do the North ridge turned out to be a good one. Although a bit icy, it was great fun and some sections needed a bit of tenacity to get past slippy and damp slabs and holds. As usual the views from the ridge were stunning.

Success. Close to the summit.

The next day proved a bit of a dilemma. I wanted to check out Criag yr Ysfa with a view to doing one of the V Diffs there, but in the end the cold beat us and we set off on the Carnedd ridge walk finishing at Pen yr Ole Wen.

Craig yr Ysfa but a bit cold for 7 pitches

With strong winds, snow/hail storms and generally inhospitable conditions it was fantastic. Regulating your temperature is so difficult in these conditions. One minute hot, then freezing – I must have taken my jacket off a dozen times during the day.

The weather closes in

Having done this walk, I would like to do a bit more in snow and ice. Maybe some of the scrambles as long as I have crampons.

Descent off Pen yr ole wen

What I have discovered though is that cold is not my favorite condition, as I know from my surfing. Maybe its time for some winter sun destinations instead!

Magnificent Triffan