23rd November 2012

Cribba Head

Unlike Siobhan – HVS 4c – Lead
Kernyk – HS 4b – Second
Boysens Cracks – E2 5c – Lead (dnf)

Talk  about the lull between storms. This was like climbing in the eye of the storm. Thursday was torrential, with full on gales and Saturday was a never ending downpour. Friday. Well Friday was dry and sunny as most Fridays have been this year. Its been very strange.

The highlight of the day was the pod of porpoise which roamed off the point and into the bay between Cribba Head and Logan Rock. The poor fisherman down below us didnt stand a chance. These critters really know how to catch fish and watching them ‘porpoise’ was wonderful.

In between this we got some top climbing in. I started on Unilke Siobhan an HVS which follows a set of overlaps up the arete on the left of the main face. Surprisingly I found this really enjoyable. I had to rely on the incredible grippy nature of the granite at Cribba (its very crystalline) as the route requires lots of smearing. Placing gear is tricky too, but its all there. Mind a fall into the gap might result in a few grazes.

Dave then got the chance to lead Kernyk. I remember from my own experience that its much harder than it first appears, especially in its upper reaches. Dave managed to contort himself into all the usual shapes the climb dictates, but as has been his forte over the past few months he climbed it in a contrlled and steady way.

I dont think it will be long before he moves onto VS’s

We finished on Boysens Cracks. I know I can lead this route, so why I f*#$k*d up so badly is beyond me. It was the crux move that undid me; I just didnt go for it and paid the price. I dont know why,. Pro’s good but my stamina was abit lacking. I’ll be back to do this and a number of the harder routes I’ve failed on recently. Time to get strong….

Tom made a good fist of it making it to the top crack before tying his hands up in knots. A good route for a top rope and getting those fingers working.