8th February 2013

Carn Barra (Carn Barra)

Super Crack – VS 4c – Lead
Angel City – Severe 4b – Lead

It had been a few weeks since our little band of climbers had been out on the cliffs so to say we were a bit excitable was an understatement. Choice of venue came down to getting out of the northerly wind and the midday high tide – Carn Barra fitted the bill and the Upper Tier was an area we hadnt yet explored. Turned out to be a good decision.

The Cornish Sea Cliffs are just starting to come alive with spring. Lots of new green shoots, a bye product of all this rain. Even the Seals were getting amorous in the surf below us.

The Upper Tier at Carn Barra is reminiscent of Bosi. Perched above the main area it doesnt take long before ou get a real sense of height and exposure. Its a bit gritty, probably from lack of climbers and you have to be wary of brittle holds in places, but on the whole its top stuff.

Tom and Chris were the first to do battle. Tom on the excellent Chicken Head Crack, a V Diff which travels up to the right of Great Central Chimney and Chris on Super Crack, the aptly named route to the left of GCC.

Super Crack was a real surprise. The first pitch looked a bit disjointed but turned out to be really tricky. Fingery wall climbing becomes a groove/crack which is difficult to get established in. Some testing moves here leads to a ledge below the start of the second pitch.

From here you get a grandstand view of the top crack which is as good as it looks. I found it tough, but with a two month layoff  this shouldnt have been unexpected. Really sustained and exposed. It’s just brilliant. Pete found it a good early season test as well, a proper bicep buster, especially negotiating the early overhang.

Tom and Dave made short work of their route, a statement of intent for the rest of the year I think with both of them leading confidently. Thats why they went looking for something a bit more challenging and ended up on Taurus the Second. Despite snapping holds and a run out at the top of the tower, they both seemed to enjoy this one. One I now have marked down for the future.

Chris, Pete and I randomly chose Angel City, mainly cos we were a bit cold. Turned out to be the right choice. I led the first pitch in what was a reversal of SC. The first pitch would be very bold for a Severe if led as per the guide. There is a dirty crack on the left but more importantly the face is fingery and difficult. I used the corner to balance things out and it felt more reasonable.

Pitch two was the main event though. The huge Sharks Fin of rock dominates the face, but the route actually follows the crack leading right up the wall. However its hard to ignore the lump of rock when you’re on the route as its so tempting to climb. As a belayer its hard to ignore the fact you are stood underneath a mass of rock that has no right to still be attached to the cliff. It looks completely undercut and precarious. So Pete and I moved the belay around the corner like the cowards we are. At least Chris would be on top of the block if it came off.

As the sun set we wandered away feeling pleased with ourselves. A good start to 2013 and the discovery of a venue we’ll be back at shortly.