Monthly Archives: March 2013

Climbing

Wolves in sheeps clothing

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Pentire point
Redwall Cliffs

28th March 2013

Warrior Mouse – HVS/E1 5a – Lead
Cradle of Filth – HVS 5a – Second

OK. Leaving you climbing shoes behind three times is beyond a joke. I need a new system whereby I keep my shoes with my bag instead of in the shed where they so often seem to be when I need them?

Fortunately Tom came to my rescue, sharing his red chillis with me which did me fine for two difficult routes. Redwall Cliffs are to be found at the end of the path from Pentire Farm, so access is straight forward; just walk past the bench and head towards the sea. Watch out for the outlandishly large sheeps poo which Chris assured us came from the famous Pentire wolves……… Whatever it was, Tom shouldnt have stepped in it.

View to the Rumps

As with a lot of the Atlantic Coast routes, the rock is not as solid as Penwith granite.  In fact around this cliff there is a lot of looseness. Tom detaching a grapefruit sized lump of rock from the cliff did not instill confidence. But Warrior Mouse is a great looking line leading up a steep groove and then out onto a steep face.

After my usual faffing moments where I started…stopped..started…etc I got stuck into the bottom chimney/groove. It is very steep which makes it tough to place gear, but once I had placed a key nut my confidence leapt and and the rest of the climb came together nicely. There is an atmospheric traverse followed by some excellent face climbing where the rock deteriorated with altitude.

Gearing up on Cradle of Filth

Creating belays is troublesome as there are no anchors directly behind the crag. On WM you can anchor to a side bluff, but for Chris he ended up using a concrete water trough some 55 metres back connected by Tom’s 10mm rope (just a little stretch in the mechanism).

Concentration

Chris chose another HVS further across on the main cliff. Cradle of Filth is aptly named due to a muddy step early on in the climb. But after this it is anything but dirty. The meat of the climb starts when you reach the headwall. This is also where the crux is. The move up from the ledge is precarious and technical. Once you work the sequence out it is OK but you have to rely on some less than positive holds initially.

The loose top out

There’s also another exciting finish to the climb with loose rock abounding. Having said all of this, Redwall Cliifs turned out to be a good venue. The views across to the Rumps and Pentire Point are startling and on this day the sea was calm and clear.

View to Pentire Point

 

Climbing

Unfinished business

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Aire Point / John Wayne Memorial Crag

14th March 2013

Biggles Flies Undone – HVS 5a – Second
Hit The Deck, Here She Comes – HVS 5b – Lead
Stagecoach – VS 5c – Lead

The first day of proper spring is what it felt like. Actual warm sunshine and blue skies. Deceptive because coming in behing this day were gales and heavy rain. Still we made the most of the window with a trip to Sennen Cove.

Back towards Sennen

The views on this day were stunning. As Tom said, the granite seemed to cahnge colour all day depending on the height and intensity of the Sun. A couple of very spectacular venues.

View back towards Aire Point with the prominent lines of Airplane and BFU

After checking out John Wayne Memorial Crag we spotted the lines we wanted to do but they needed a little more drying so we started on Aire Point. Chris and Tom on Aireline, a tough VS taking on the definative chimney in the centre of the crag and Joe tackling Biggles Flies Undone, an HVS I had had my eye on for a while but which I deferred to Joe because I didnt want him to cry and humiliate himself in front of the rest of the crew.

Joe mid crux on Biggles Flies Undone

Turns out it was tougher than first appearances suggested. The real problems are short lived but require a bit of commitment. There is little for your fet at first and placing pro is strenuous. Joe made a good job of it before blasting up the top thank god flake. A top start to the day.

Making our way back to JWMC

We returned to JWMC and set about the two HVS 5b’s. Chris on Regans Regression and me on Hit The Deck, Here She Comes (variation) We both suffered the same ignominious defeat. For me, it was my stamina that let me down. I’ve got to get that sorted. Howver HTDHSC is a very good climb and I want another go at it to clean it. Chris and I intend to return soon to complete our respective ‘projects’.

Tom on the deceptively difficult Sheriff VS 4c

As a finale Chris and Tom went for Sheriff, an outwardly innocuous VS but one which proves decidedly move difficult with technical moves on the upper slab.

The balancy final moves of Sheriff

Suprisingly Joe wanted a go at the 5c route Stagecoach (insert irony here). Clearly he hadnt fallen off anything yet and wanted the opportunity. Stagecoach provided it. It is really a one sequence wonder with excellent pro.

Joe tops out the 5c section of Stagecoach having given blood to the cause

Get a couple of nuts in and go for it (Pete that’s your red Metollius we scratched up).

Pete. Do you recognise this!……

After going up and down a couple of times I eventualy went for it and suprisingly made it. The barn door potential is the problem as Joe found out. However in the end we both did it and capped off a grand day out.

A day which left everyone knackered but feeling good. A word of warning though. The walk out from Aire Point is a beast after a long day and with a heavy pack. Be prepared.

 

Climbing

It’s raining frogs and fruitbats

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8th March 2013

Trewellard – Goldsworthy Buttress

Return of the Lemming – VS 4c – Lead
Bright Morning – V Diff – Lead (P2)
Sea Fever – Diff/Severe 4b – Second

Trewellard was looking a little different from the last time Dave and I climbed here. On that day the wind was about 40mph and it was pretty grey. This time, sunshine and good conditions.

View towards Bible Wall

That said, it is not the most attractive of venues unless you like industrial backdrops of broken ground, churned earth and arsenic. Yes arsenic, something worth keeping in mind – if it’s green dont touch it, lick it or dip your lunch in it cos it’ll probably kill you!

Belay Platform – Wide Ledge

A number of places show the vivid green streaks seeping out of the cliffs, but Goldsworthy isnt one of them. On this day it was relatively dry and we stuck to the buttress climbs and not the zawn which did look damp. One for another day as there are some cracking looking climbs there.

Pete styling on ROTL

ROTL looks a bit like a cliff which is rotting in front of your eyes. Similar to Coastguard Cliffs actually. The first pitch looks bold and pro (at least good pro) is difficult to find. I’m not sure I would have wanted to fall on half the gear I placed and there is a run out section in the middle. But, it is laced with small foot placements and little sharp edged holds. They look brittle but I found then solid and none snapped on me.

Chris leading P1 ROTL

All the above taken into account, the first pitch is great. Balancy, technical and just good fun. The other two match up well. Pitch two’s overhang is committing but well protected and Pitch 3 has a hard start and a camera friendly finish.

Top Pitch of ROTL

It was getting late when we all finished, but we had enough time to get another climb in. Chris and Tom went for Bright Morning, a climb Dave had led earlier. A difficult V Diff is the best way to describe it. Probably more towards Severe actually. Dave took Joe and myself for a wander onto the seaward face of the buttress where booming surf greeted us and a very wet chimney on Double Take.

Booming Surf below the belay on Sea Fever/Double Take

Dave wisely left this alone but contrived a new line between the Diff of Sea Fever and Double Take which was probably at around Severe 4b. A tricky mantel into a sparsely protected groove made for a good pitch. Well done to Dave for climbing this blind effectively. Maybe its worth listing as a new route.

Dave new routing

I finished on the second pitch of Bright Morning, an excellent pitch in its own right. Meanwhile Joe went off soloing the arete, probably looking for something hard to get stuck into.

P2 of Bright Morning

We were greeted by persistent rain as we packed up (perfect timing) which made the journey back interesting with strange animals flying past the van and the road littered with suicidal frogs.

View back to Pendeen

Cant wait to get back a do the traverse Chain Link in the zawn. looks scary and classic!

 

 

Climbing

Not real Rock

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2nd March 2013

My Garage

Not quite the same as Carn Barra but it’s good enough for a bit of fun. My new wall is now complete. It’s rough around the edges but should do the job.

Wall 2

There’s music and as much tea as you can drink! All welcome.

Wall 1