Monthly Archives: February 2013

Climbing

Days of the week.

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22nd February 2013

Sennen
Sunday and Monday Face

Dexter – VS 4c – Second
Slim – VS 5a – Lead
Vertical Crack – VS 4c – Second

OK. The thin snow drifting around when we arrived gave a clue to the days conditions. Cold. And i therefore offered myself some advice. Stick to climbs with big holds and stay away from finger routes.

Looking across Monday Face with Dave on CWD.

It’s a shame I cant follow my own logic then. But over confidence will do that to you forcing a disregard for the blindingly obvious. Your hands are going to get cold!

Tom leading the tough bottom crack of Church Window Direct

Tom and Dave kicked things off with an attempt on Church Window, Tom preferring the direct and harder start to the traditional flop onto the high shelf. For an initial pitch it is a pumpy start, but Tom made good work of it, finishing via the corner in the alter niche.

Chis hangin.. on Dexter

Meanwhile Chris was leading the tricky and exposed Dexter. This route is all about the top traverse and finish. Moving off the pinnacle at the top of the crack you’re faced with a swing out onto the main face using the rising flake as a rail. It feels very bold, but not as bold as the step up at the end. That’s special. All in all a great lead by Chris in the conditions.

Pete on Dexter.

Pete found it difficult, but to his credit he stuck at it and made it through. I also found it exposed. The conditions meant your hands felt cold and it was difficult to trust your grip at times.

Chris about to go for the top move on Dexter.

Which is why it was all the more surprising that I chose a tasty finger crack  Slim for my lead… which proceeded to remind me that I was not as good as I thought I was. More of a mental state though, than a lack of physical ability. Four attempts later I finally cleared the early 5a move and the remainder of the climb was stright forward. Looks like I’ll have to come back and repeat this one.

Dave on the top cracks of CDW… just after taking to the air.

Both Dave and Chris lead vertical crack on this day. It’s been upgraded now to VS which is understandable so Dave has now bagged a VS which is brilliant going for so early in the year. It is well protected so it helps to settle the nerves, but is still technically a challenge.

Tom on CWD.

The same can be said for the top section of Church Window Direct, although Dave decided to put in some air time after peeling off on the tough top moves. CWD is one of my favorite climbs at Sennen. I want to give it another go next time we’re back.

Dave looking relaxed on CWD. He shouldnt have been???

Hopefully things will now warm up for the rest of the year. I’m definitely looking forward to summer.

Climbing

My legs have gone to a Disco!

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The Dewerstone

19th February 2013
Spiders Web – HVS 5a – Alt Lead

It was good to have a few dry days in a row. The issue now was a freezing South Easterley wind to deal with so the shelter of the Dewerstone seemed an obvious choice.

Our own private stream for the day.

Having had an outing on a VS recently I felt ready to give an HVS a go and I’d often wanted to try Spiders Web. Three stars and two pitches it seemed ideal for Chris and I to have a crack at it. Strangely this was the first multi pitch HVS we have done so it was a step in the right direction..

Starting out on Spiders Web

I set out on Pitch one very tentatively and after faffing around for ages finally got going. I think I had forgotten that HVS’s are difficult and expected to just breeze through it. We P1 woke me up and negotiating the crux corner made me work very hard.

Crux 2. The move onto the first slab.

A step up onto a small right hand foot placement saw my leg begin to break dance. There is not a lot for your hands except a thin jam, which is jut enough to pull through. Look out for a perfect cam slot to settle the nerves.

About to head out onto the delicate top slab.

Chris’s pitch was very different. This time it was balancy traverses with lots of smearing and small hand holds. The top slab is special, especially the first move out from above the tree. Gets the heart pumping, but pro is very good so you can proceed with confidence.

Topping out.

After much patting each other on the back, we decided to quit while we were ahead. An easy thing to do in a beautiful place like The Dewerstone. The walk back through the woods by the stream allows for some smug reflection on what was a blinding day.

Climbers on Devils Buttress

And there are a few more HVS’s for us to do yet….

Climbing

Seal Dogging

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8th February 2013

Carn Barra (Carn Barra)

Super Crack – VS 4c – Lead
Angel City – Severe 4b – Lead

It had been a few weeks since our little band of climbers had been out on the cliffs so to say we were a bit excitable was an understatement. Choice of venue came down to getting out of the northerly wind and the midday high tide – Carn Barra fitted the bill and the Upper Tier was an area we hadnt yet explored. Turned out to be a good decision.

The Cornish Sea Cliffs are just starting to come alive with spring. Lots of new green shoots, a bye product of all this rain. Even the Seals were getting amorous in the surf below us.

The Upper Tier at Carn Barra is reminiscent of Bosi. Perched above the main area it doesnt take long before ou get a real sense of height and exposure. Its a bit gritty, probably from lack of climbers and you have to be wary of brittle holds in places, but on the whole its top stuff.

Dave sets the belay scene.

Tom and Chris were the first to do battle. Tom on the excellent Chicken Head Crack, a V Diff which travels up to the right of Great Central Chimney and Chris on Super Crack, the aptly named route to the left of GCC.

Super Crack was a real surprise. The first pitch looked a bit disjointed but turned out to be really tricky. Fingery wall climbing becomes a groove/crack which is difficult to get established in. Some testing moves here leads to a ledge below the start of the second pitch.

Pete entering the tricky groove/crack on pitch one of Super Crack

From here you get a grandstand view of the top crack which is as good as it looks. I found it tough, but with a two month layoff  this shouldnt have been unexpected. Really sustained and exposed. It’s just brilliant. Pete found it a good early season test as well, a proper bicep buster, especially negotiating the early overhang.

Tom and Dave made short work of their route, a statement of intent for the rest of the year I think with both of them leading confidently. Thats why they went looking for something a bit more challenging and ended up on Taurus the Second. Despite snapping holds and a run out at the top of the tower, they both seemed to enjoy this one. One I now have marked down for the future.

Tom at the top of Chicken Head Crack

Chris, Pete and I randomly chose Angel City, mainly cos we were a bit cold. Turned out to be the right choice. I led the first pitch in what was a reversal of SC. The first pitch would be very bold for a Severe if led as per the guide. There is a dirty crack on the left but more importantly the face is fingery and difficult. I used the corner to balance things out and it felt more reasonable.

Pitch two was the main event though. The huge Sharks Fin of rock dominates the face, but the route actually follows the crack leading right up the wall. However its hard to ignore the lump of rock when you’re on the route as its so tempting to climb. As a belayer its hard to ignore the fact you are stood underneath a mass of rock that has no right to still be attached to the cliff. It looks completely undercut and precarious. So Pete and I moved the belay around the corner like the cowards we are. At least Chris would be on top of the block if it came off.

Chris testing out the fin on Angel City

As the sun set we wandered away feeling pleased with ourselves. A good start to 2013 and the discovery of a venue we’ll be back at shortly.