17th May 2013
The Horse (The Lizard)
Tie That Critta Down – VS 4c – Alt lead
A day for some exploration and a day where location was all important. We spent much of the day watching huge cumulonimbus forming over central Cornwall and unloading their payload.
However the Predannack area missed it all and was in beautiful sunshine for most of the day. More importantly we had planned it that way so boy were we smug!
The Horse, a remote venue is not just round the corner from the Predanack Farm parking as Chris and I had assumed. It’s actually a good 30-40 minutes walking, snaking along the coast path providing one stunning vista after another. On a sunny day with no wind and calm seas, this coast becomes magical. If the water temperature was higher for longer I dont think there would be anywhere better in the world. It’s a real privelege to be able to call this your backyard and take advantage of it so often. It’s why I stayed in Cornwall.
There is a remarkable ridge feature on the walk in. A sort of mini Commando Ridge, but somewhat less stable I think. It does look like a classic though and Chris and I have marked it for an early return this year. There could be some issues getting down to it but it looks a proper adventure.
The Horse is a startling promontory with a long access ridge finishing in a rounded pinnacle. The guide is not that clear on how to find the climbs and we spent a good amount of time getting our bearings. Basically, from the top point on the promontory, the routes are down to your right looking out to sea. Scramble down the broken and somewhat grassy slope as though you were heading towards Carn Vellan. Its a bit dodgy here. We used an ab rope for assistance but you could just scramble it. You eventually get to a sloping yellow ramp. Ab off left and it takes you down to the sea level ledges.
The coating of yellow moss adds another dimension; catch it wrong and you find youself starting to slide. At times it feels like you’re walking on butter! On the other hand it turns the cliffs into ‘Monet’ like paintings with the amazing yellows it produces.
Be warned if you anchor the rope at the top of the main promontory you intend to use it for the final ab you have about a foot of spare rope on a 50m so put a knot in it! Also it only gets you to the higher ledges; a 60m will get you to the bottom ledges.
Even when we got down there the routes are not obvious. They should be cos theres a striking crack and niche which is part of TTCD. We couldnt track down Queen of May at first and even later I’m not sure we got it right. We’ll need to come back and spend more time checking it out.
TTCD though was worthwhile. A tough and strenuous first pitch was tackled by Chris. It looks easier than it is (I’ve heard that a few times before). A tricky move gains the niche and exposed bridging gets you to the ledge. The rock I think is serpentine like, with a purple tinge to it. Not quite granite, but solid nevertheless. The top pitch is more broken- Chris described it as prehistoric which seems apt as it looks ‘old’.
Pitch two takes on the more suspect rock higher on the crag. Traverse right and move through jenga territory it some pretty exposed positions. Great climbing but the fact I pulled a fist sized lump of rock off tells it all.
A great day out and like old times for me and Chris. This is a ‘must return’ venue with loads more potential. and anyway the walk in is worth it in its own right,
