24th May 2013

Pedn-men-an-mere

Zip – VS 4c – Lead
Panos – HS 4b – Second
Bandwagon – E1 5b – Lead
Midnight Express – E1 5b – Lead (dog)

A brilliant day marred by my nemesis which as usual bit me on the arse.

Sheltered from the wing St Levans Wall was the perfect venue. With a good low tide we had plenty of time to play on the climbs on the lower tier as well.

To start though I had a go at Zip a VS with a tough start. I keep forgetting that VS are not there to warm up on and this one as usual reminded me of that as I struggled up the initial crack to be halted at a slightly bold mantleshelf. I actually enjoyed it though, the same of which can be said for Chris.

He started on Panos, an HS with a bite. The opening V goove isnt easy but the top move onto the pillar is made spicy if you stay right which seems to take you away from anything useful to pull over on. Tom and Dave intelligently went left which seemed a far more amenable finish. Still, one to get the heart going.

Bandwagon looks good from below and it didn’t disappoint. Good delicate climbing which requires good footwork and a steady head through the crux. Just our type of route really and we both loved it.

And so to the finale. What could go wrong after such a good start. Midnight Express beckoned me, and proceeded to teach me a lesson in humility and trash my bank account at the same time as 5 of my Nuts cascaded into the deep water filled trough below. Thats my third attempt. Its got to be fourth time lucky?

Still, it didnt detract from a great day out although it took a little while for the red mist to clear. One to get on again soon methinks.