18th April 2014
Trewellard – Main Face
Sundog – E1 5b – Second (dogged)
Shambhalla – E1 5b – Lead
It has been a while since Joe and I have climbed together, so it was really good to get back to old ways again. I had forgot Joe’s habit of looking at the hardest route on a crag and then going for it. But this time it paid dividends.
I’ve been on a few of the faces at Trewellard but Joe’s abseil dropped us straight onto the main face and a couple of really top routes. The first, led by Joe was Sundog.
Even from below the crux looked tough, going through a slightly overhanging bulge of rock with little pro and small finger holds. It was a top effort by Joe who pulled through the section after getting in some high gear. Unfortunately I wasnt so fortunate. The small crimps beat me and with only inches to go I peeled off. Its a shame because the rest of the climb was tricky but manageable. Clearly Joe’s efforts on the training walls we have scattered at our various houses has paid off and I think I might be following him up some even harder routes this year.
Meanwhile Bart and Tom were gradually working thier way through the routes on the West Face which was basking in warm sunshine. I always found these to be bold for their grade, but quality climbing. Both Tom and Bart were leading building up their confidence no doubt for Sardinia.
Speaking of which, this was the first occasion the full island crew were together as Dave and Chris were have an exciting time on Return of the Lemming a bold VS on Goldsworthy Buttress. So this is what we can look forward to??
My lead was on Shambhalla, an HVS in the book but an E1 on UKC. I think it was probably somewhere in the middle. A hard HVS or an easy E1. Although I didnt find the crux and mid section easy, struggling again to get my head into gear. I did it though and that is great and a real confidence booster. Definitely not as hard as Joe’s E1.
Bart, Tom and I succumbed to ‘lightweightedness’ a left a bit earlier as the temperature dropped quickly. The sun was still shining on the other three as they grabbed a final Severe on the Main Face. I’m looking forward to climbing with Joe a bit more this year. It pushes my grades and adds a bit of excitment and fun to events.!!!
