22nd January 2016
Boscawen Point
Lucretia – VS 5a – Lead OS

God this winter has been awful for rain.  Never ending since November so it was a real GodSend that we had a sunny Friday (even our eternal optimism was getting dampened)

However when Joe suggested Boscawen as a venue,; fair enough because it dries fast, I hadn’t anticipated that most of the rain that had fallen this winter was lying on the path in. To say we scated our way there would be fairly accurate. However, despite this it was brilliant to be back on the coast getting an eyeful of Cornwall’s best gift.

Despite a bit of wind it turned into a great day out. For me it was a return to a climb that had properly spanked me on a previous visit. To the extent I didnt even get off the ground. Hence my onsite claim 🙂 On this occasion Dave and I tackled it with zest (almost) and I grunted my way to the top never really feeling in full control but getting through each of the hard sections.

Lucretia is a great climb. A bit lichenous, but not so much it cant be done. Some strenuous jamming leads to an awkward niche. I spent a while here summoning up the courage to break out into the layback needed to make the next section. Its a head game really because having made the move I found it ok, if a bit tricky to place gear. Lay of the amazingly grippy edge and walk your way to the top, with a final pull to make the top jug.

To say I was pleased is an understatement. To say I was f#*!ked is an understatement. I need to climb more! We retreated to the main face where Joe and Tom were climbing something very hard. Lord Lucan I think which is 6a on the bottom moves. Fortunately I left my shoes with the bags so had a good excuse to dose off before a edgy solo out up the right hand blocks.

Joe pointed me at Luke Skywalker, a really good looking VS up the main face for next time, so I have something to aim for. The E1 looks good too, if a bit bold.

The walk out with the sun setting capped off a good return to the crags for our little gang. Lets hope the weather improves as I’m up for a good season.