Monthly Archives: March 2016

Climbing

Woods for the trees

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25th March 2016

Bosigran

Rapture – VS 4c – Tom

I dont know how many times I’ve been to Bosi and yet it still seems possible to pick up new lines, even in an area like Red Slab.

Tom and Dave synchronising
Tom and Dave synchronising

Rapture actually takes an obvious line through the overlaps, but cuts across about 4 routes in doing so, so not one to do on a busy day… It has two committing step ups but the gear in general is good and the holds are really positive. You get the full exposure of the Ding face, taking a line slightly higher than the Ding alcove but below the flake of Belle.

Tom on Rapture
Tom on Rapture

Its just really good climbing at the grade. The second pitch swings out wide on the flank of the wall, but Tom included the chimney of Ding to spice things up and then broke out onto a great slab near the top. This gives exposed climbing but up a friendly slab. All in all a top VS and it should have stars in the book.

Bosigran_Mar16 (12)

Neanwhile Dave was bagging an HVS in the form of Belle, another terrific climb on this wall. This takes the higher flake which is abit more committing. Good job on this for Dave this early in the year.

Dave on Belle
Dave on Belle

Unfortunately the morning was marred by wet rock as Joe and I were unable to tackle our main objectives. Joe wanted to try Kohima and I was looking at Dolphinarium and Variety Show in the Great Zawn. Still, thats for next time.

 

Climbing

This takes the biscuit..ist

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23rd March 2016

Carn Gowla

Sluice – HVS 5a – Lead 

Well this was good for a leg workout. I decided to take the right hand buttress down from the Coastguard lookout in the mistaken belief I could get to Sluice from the ‘Crystal’ section of crag. All this got me was a long walk back out with a full pack so I could drop down the other side.

The waves always create the mood on any climbing day
The waves always create the mood on any climbing day

Then of course I lobbed my belay device into the sea (wouldnt be the same if I didnt sacrifice gear at Carn Gowla) so had to haul another one up just to ab in. Not an auspicious start. But it did get a lot better.

A slab like biscuit
A slab like biscuit

I arrived a bit late to find Joe on something rediculously hard and overhanging. Desire an E2 5c with a wicked strenuous crack. Nothing new there then! After sorting out a lack of a second rope, Dave and I finally got started on Sluice a strange but enjoyable HVS on the corner of the buttress. With a good swell running the whole area was pretty dramatic and Sluice added some spice being crumbly and unreliable on the hold front.

Dave nearing the top of the upper slab on Sluice
Dave nearing the top of the upper slab on Sluice

There is a short but slightly bold start which leads to a couple of ‘bomber??’ threads. Then you move up and over the overhang onto the upper slab. Its a great exposed move onto some thin foot flakes. Tread lightly as they dont take much to break as Dave found out. Then a final nervous sequence up the wall on good but strange and sharp holds. I didnt want to load them son spent most of my time getting my feet right. For our first evening out this was great fun and hopefully lots more Gowla adventures to come.

Carn Growlerrrrr
Carn Growlerrrrr

I might even go back and try Desire one day if I’m feeling particularly strong đŸ™‚

Climbing

Climb Hard with a vengence

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19th March 2016

Pelitras Point

Lardus – E2 5c – TR
Red Snapper – E2 5c – TR

Now I will readily admit I dont often Top Rope, but there are some days when it is by far the best choice. This of course was one of them. It was overcast, cold and there was a chill SE blowing.

Pelitras is an amazing piece of rock, but in general the climbs here are hard. The easier variations all looked a bit wet and un-appealing, so Joe kindly set up a top rope. It was nice to sit back and let someone else organise my climbing, although I did my best to try and get the tr in the wrong place.

It was good to really test myself against something harder and both climbs delivered on the front. Red snapper has some hard opening moves to get established and then a perplexing move on the upper arete. This is off balance and the climb forces you to come at the holds from the wrong direction. Still, I got it in the end and was mighty releived.

Lardus is all about the top crack. Joe reckoned harder than 5c and I would agree, not that I’m that familiar with 5c but i can normally haul my arse up 5c. I dont know about 6a. Got it on my second attempt but only just.

I want to return here and bag all the VS’s and maybe something a bit harder, but on a sunny day perhaps.