Monthly Archives: April 2016

Climbing

A load of one horned bull!

1 Comment

29th April 2016

Black Head

White Russians – VS 4c – Second

Once again a farmer has succeeded in making life difficult for the average walker/climber. It seems the permissive path to Black Head has been shut since October 2014 because of calving and a bull. The calves must be slow growers??

I understand why a farmer doesn’t want idiots scaring his/her cattle, but a blanket ban on using a permissive pathway, where I might add the fields are segregated except for the final one, is excessive. Anyway, using a liberal amount of common sense we checked the field and used the path anyway. The one horned bull and his harem were safely tucked away in an adjacent field. Of course Joe and I made sure Dave and Tom were safe by protecting our get-away, while they went ahead…..

The med or atlantic?
The med or atlantic?

So why were we at Black Head? Well, we’d been to Coastguard cliff and it was windy and freezing. It was good to get an eye on ‘Aboriginal Sin’ an amazing E3 5c on the Sirius Wall. It looks well protected and stren-u-ous. I think I’ll give that one a go during the summer.

Dave starting the traverse on White Russians
Dave starting the traverse on White Russians

So over to Black Head where we were out of the nasty wind…. NOT!! It was a bit more protected but the wind seemed to wrap around the point and blow back up the watershoot. It was a lovely sunny day, but harsh hanging on the belay below White Russians. Not that I would have denied Dave his lead. WR is one of the best VS’s in Cornwall imo. The traverse under the overhang is committing and exposed and Dave did a great job leading it. My third go on the route was as good as ever, despite not being able to feel my feet and it only takes a bit of climbing to get the blood flowing and the warmth back.

Dave on the top pitch of White Russians
Dave on the top pitch of White Russians

Dave and I both have target climbs here. I want to lead Rebel Yell and Dave Archangel. I know Joe is scouting an E3 as well, so a return is on the cards shortly. Hopefully on a slightly warmer day.

Climbing

The patience of St Piper

Leave a comment

27th April 2016

Tater Du

Willie’s Way – HVS 5a – Alt Lead
Flake Wall – VS 4c – Alt Lead

There are times when you wonder how your body and your mind get along. The body is willing, but the mind says ‘No!’. It doesnt matter how hard you try, it is sometimes very difficult to conquer this.

the pro in the 'relatively' secure chimney/overhang
the pro in the ‘relatively’ secure chimney/overhang

Poor Dave had to watch me going through a mental epic on the overhang of Willie’s Way. I knew I could do it. I felt strong, but my head had no intentions of giving in easily.

And so I went up and went back down again numerous times before Dave gave some sound advice and said to come back down, compose myself and rest, and try again. And so on about the 7th attempt I just went for it and surprise, I made it. It was good to know that Dave also found it hard, so I had at least some justification for my hesitancy. Many thanks to Dave for being so patient and positive.

The ab in. You cant see the rock pool cleverly placed at the bottom.
The ab in. You cant see the rock pool cleverly placed at the bottom.

We went to Tater Du because of the wind conditions and it turned out to be a good call. Sun for most of the day and good shelter. Willie’s Way has been on my ‘To do’ list for ages. Ever since I went to Tater Du with Bart and did Bus Route the adjacent V Diff. All three pitches are worthwhile with a rising degree of difficulty. The main event is the short V Chimney and capping overhang.

These are big moves on relatively big holds, but you are effectively on a 90 degree slope for the overhang. It is a case of finding the right sequence because once you commit (eventually 🙂 ) there’s no going back. But the pumpyness is short lived and the pro good. The rock looks suspect, but is solid and seems reliable. Great route and maybe I’ll do it again just to prove to myself I can get over that fear factor.

Joe going for the move over the overhang on Lamorna Wall.
Joe going for the move over the overhang on Lamorna Wall.

Tom and Joe meanwhile were on their own epic Lamorna Wall. A fantastic looking E2 going up through the middle of the main wall. By all accounts its all about the move through the overhang which looked nails.

Joe moving up the face
Joe moving up the face
Tom and Joe high on Lamorna Wall
Tom and Joe high on Lamorna Wall

But the situations looked incredible. Of course this was just a prelude to Tom finding a nasty chimney to do in Fat Panda! How come Tom likes chimneys so much – I dont see the attraction lol . By all accounts this one was sparcely protected too.

Our second climb (if we were anywhere near on the right route) was Flake Wall. The first pitch parallels WW but hugging the arete with a final bold pull onto the big ledge. The guide book description says to cross the blocky overhang, so thats what Dave did. Whether it was the right overhang I have no idea, but Dave set off and encountered his own epic.

Dave on the traverse on Flake Wall
Dave on the traverse on Flake Wall

You’d think it was a lot easier than tackling the overhang direct, but the reality is that its just as committing. Same initial gear but then a wild swing out left and some awkward foot placements on the crumbling ‘flake wall’. Then its up andover. Less steep, but still lots of exposure.

Me finishing Flake Wall
Me finishing Flake Wall

So two great routes and Dave and I were both buzzing. Add to this one of the most beautiful locations in Cornwall and you have an ‘epic’ day.

Climbing

Where did that f@*!ing train come from!

Leave a comment

21st  April 2016

Sennen

Slippery Slab – VS 5a – Lead
On Your Marks – HVS 5a – Alt Lead

That was basically what I was thinking as we left Sennen after a great but fairly gruelling days climbing. My body felt like it had been hit by a train – sore arms and shoulders, cuts everywhere and feeling drained.

But what a day….

Everything I’d read about Slippery Slab suggested it was great, but being self descriptive I had wanted to ensure it was in condition. So what better than a dampish day, with puddles indicating the remnants fo the previous days showers. What could possibly go wrong.

Dave, after moving off the bottom ledge and finishing the perplexing traverse.
Dave, after moving off the bottom ledge and finishing the perplexing traverse.

Well route finding for a start. Dave and I both initially  looked at the wrong line. The clue is the description of the high nut. The guide books are vague at best but basically do the following:-

Climb up onto the big slightly sloping ledge. Move to its back in the large V Groove and place some high gear. Then return to the bottom edge of the ledge and move right (facing in) into a much smaller hanging groove and pull up onto the slab. It takes some working out, but the holds are there as well as a camny hidden protection slot. Keep looking and you’ll find it.

One of the great moves on Slippery Slab
One of the great moves on Slippery Slab

I managed to blow the move up. I worked out the hard moves, got up and placed a good nut and then slid off the wet hold my left hand was perched on. So it was lower off and do it again, this time with no incidents. The rising crack is fantastic. Well protected and with loads of great moves.

Dave nearing the top of Slippery Slab
Dave nearing the top of Slippery Slab

Dave suffered from the same symptoms as I had, spending a while working out the moves, but eventually getting it.  Warning beta! There is a jug at the end of the difficult moves so dont give up.

Having spanked ourselves on SS the obvious decision was to go looking for something even more strenuous and with a harder crux. Why not? It was Dave’s idea anyway.

The line of On Your Marks
The line of On Your Marks

So I set up for the bottom pitch of On Your Marks and proceeded to completely run out of gas and make a feeble attempt at the opening cracks (which wernt actually that bad). So Dave stepped up, announced that “Your feeble. Watch how a man does it!” and cleaned the cracks in one go. I managed to get up them on the second, thanks to Dave, so we were left with a dilema.

The second pitch had an overhang. I thought it looked technical but not too hard. Dave figured it was nails. Dave was right, but in my usual inherent stupidity I grabbed the lead and set out on an epic.

Half an hour later, with my hands and legs bleeding, my shoulders dislocated and not enough strength to hold the ropes I ended up on the ledge above the overhang. It wasnt easy, it was friggin difficult. I actually nearly made it. Pulled out of the cosy recess, pulled up into the main event and even got my foot on the rim and pulled partially over. But then I didnt spot the jug hold and that was the end of it. 4 tries later I woosed out and went left to a treacherous finish that way.

Hayloft area - On Your Marks
Hayloft area – On Your Marks

Dave then rubbed humiliation into my wound by cleaning the overhang, albeit with the red-est face I’ve seen him pull yet. Good job it was and Dave can tick another HVS lead and a good one at that.

And so ended a brilliant day, with yet more adventures ticked. The ride home was fairly quiet compared to normal. Probably because we’d both emptied the tank, but what a great feeling. I think I may have to try that overhang again 🙂

Climbing

On Belay! Just don’t fall off…..

Leave a comment

17th April 2016

Kellan Head
Hidden Amphitheatre

Gambit – Severe 4a – Alt lead

Its a shout that doesnt instil massive confidence. Mind you I should have realised this was no normal belay stance Dave was on when a football sized chunk of rock went whistling by and plummeted into the sea!

Slightly wet strat to the E1.
Slightly wet strat to the E1.

This trip turned into a great adventure. We had set off to climb a couple of fairly hard routes in the E1 range but they were still a bit out of condition. Seepage meant the opening moves were a bit dicey (no pro and wet foot placements) so we left them for next week hopefully.

Kellan Head_Apr16 (4)

Instead we went exploring. The guidebook suggests an abseil into the Hidden Amphitheatre, but there also looked to be a traverse around the point. Green and slimey in some places, but not where we climbed, it was possible to get around the nose of the zawn/bay and onto the main slab.

Sitting amoungst the slime.
Sitting amoungst the slime.

Its great fun, especially when you dont have a clue whats coming. As it turned out it wa a spectacular area of rock. High and a bit intimidating, but with plenty of obvious lines. It took us a while to get out bearings and sort out the routes. Still not sure about some but we did find a massive VS which looks epic. Next time though, as we were running out of light, so we settled on the Severe called Gambit to climb out.

Top pitch Gambit
Top pitch Gambit

Probably not as straight forward as the guidebook suggests. It’s described as ‘slight’ which in comparison to the other routes it probably is. But ti shouldnt be underestimated in the context of the rock, which in places is loose and unreliable.

For the most part it follows good rock and has a couple of good sections. The start of pitch two which Dave led was great, but again not easy. Well worth Severe 4a/b and possibly higher in the severity grade because the pro is there, but will it hold?

The final hanging slab gives good exposure and lots of dodgey rock. Dave’s belay was more likely to caused a cliff collapse than hold me in a fall. Still you have to work with what you have. I think I might run a rope down from the fence posts if I know we will be topping out here next time. Safer and easier.

After Gambit
After Gambit

We finished with a stunning setting sun and the whole area glowing gold as the lichen caught the suns rays. Truly amazing, but a little cold as I only had a wind stopper. So back to the car park in what must be one of cornwalls most scenic places to climb.

Climbing

Convenient

Leave a comment

14th April 2016

Kellan Head (Upper Buttress)

Big Dave’s Serpent – VS 4c – Second

This was a new venue for me and Dave. I have to be honest and say I didnt even know it was there. I’d heard of the Waterslide and Hidden Amphitheatre but not the upper buttress.

Enjoying the view
Enjoying the view

To be honest, the rock is not brilliant and the area is a bit green, probably through lack of traffic. It could clean up, but on some routes (Daves for example) I don’t think there is any escaping the loose rock.

Big Dave's Setpent
Big Dave’s Setpent

Dave’s VS was not technical or difficult, in fact 4c is a bit high, but it was VS if only for the top 10ft of precarious flakes. The fact I stood over to one side describes my reaction. Still, it has some good moves, but I think the E1’s and HVS further along are probably the better climbs.

The terrace
The terrace

It was raining or drizzling for much of the time we were there and we got soaked on the walk out, but its a venue that’s easy to get to and non tidal so I’m sure we’ll be back shortly. And of course its in a stunning location.

Climbing

Time to go back to Skool

Leave a comment

7th April 2016

Trewarvas

Joy Direct – VS 4c – Lead
William’s Chiney – HVS 5b – Lead

Your laces should not really be an issue in climbing, unless you lose the ability to tie them. This seemed to be the case on Williams Chimney with both of mine coming undone. The Virgo in me then kicked in and I couldnt get settled until I’d re-tied them. What a faff. Back to school then where I can learn to double knot them.

Shoes aside it was a great afternoon. First time back at Trewavas for a while and two good climbs bagged.

Joy Direct is a climb I mistakenly thought I had already done. I have done Joy and I have done a variation which breaks left, but not the correct route. So this was a good one to pick. Except that it was a lot more difficult than I thought from the bottom. Gear is good, but you place it on power. The route is slight akilter, so you’re never really comfortable. And it sprobably not the best warm up as your straight into it. Still good fun, although Dave had a traumatic time trying to remove a nut stuchk on the crux. His arm’ ees were soon sorted out and I think it took the rest of the session for him to recover.

Dave approaching the chimney on Williams Chimney
Dave approaching the chimney on Williams Chimney

Williams chimney I knew would be reasonably tough, but I didnt realise how good it was. A bit of everything- thin groove and face climbing, crimpy pulls and a narrow chimney. For me the crux was lower down negotiating the groove. For Dave it was the move into the chimney where my height probably gave me the advantage. Only just 5b and definitely more HVS than E1 which some have suggested. That said it is top of its grade.

The walk out on a perfect evening
The walk out on a perfect evening

Still a really satisfying climb and a good bit of progression in what has been a poor year so far for climbing. I now need to return and do South Groove and West Wing. A definite for my next trip there.