Bosigran Main Face
16th April 2021

Andrew – V Diff, Severe, VS3c+ (take your pick) – Alt Lead
Black Slab – Diff – Solo

There are days in climbing where you just don’t want any pressures. Where the ultimate enjoyment is going to be moving on the rock, effortlessly, with no pressure to put yourself out of your comfort zone. Chris and I decided this was going to be one of those days, although Andrew does provide a few surprises even at V Diff/Severe.

Some of the old V Diffs just don’t feel like V Diffs. Andrew is definitely one of those. Hovering around the Severe to V Diff grade in the guides, it has a couple of pitches which are guaranteed to give new V Diff leaders a run for their money.

Pitches 2 and 4 provide dilemma’s for the novice leader in different ways. And even for Chris, who would cruise V Diffs all day, the moves are perplexing. Pitch two start off a broad ledge with a step up onto a face. Looks easy 🙂 but its off balance and your feet never feel comfortable. Hands are not right either. I dont know how many times I started off when I first led it, and Chris found it exactly the same. Definitely a trust move.

And of course the final pitch. As out there as V Diff/Severe’s can be. Top of Bosi with an overhanging V groove/chimney. Everything’s there, but its intimidating and atmospheric. What a pitch to finish on.

And that was it for the lead and roped climbing. We dropped down to the seaward face to check out Geronimo which provided endless fun. Its not an easy climb down and we seemed to find a different way out up some sloping ledges. It seemed the only fitting way to end things was a solo of Black Slab. And how good is that. Big holds, big foot placements and a birds eye view across Bosi.

Two very satisfied climbers stopped for a quick Guiness at the Gurnards Head. My first post COVID bear out and sat in the sun in the garden there it was our own little bit of paradice as we congratulated each other in our smugness.

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