May | 2025 | The Magik Rock

15th May 2025

Whirl Pool Buttress
Earthly Powers – E2 5c – Alt Lead

There are occasions when you find yourself outside of your comfort zone. Then there are occasions when you find yourself outside of the outside of your comfort zone. This was one of them.

From the moment I peeked over the top of the headwall while abseiling down, I knew this was going to be an adventure to remember. And it was and for all the right reasons.

All credit for Joe in finding the correct abseil point, which is important as you’ll need that rope later! And also credit to Joe for spotting that this route was going to be in condition after the dry spell we’ve had. Azure sea’s greeted us on the approach and a pristeen little beachonce we landed.

You get a birds eye view of the route on the descent, so it’s easy to see whats coming. It’s steep imposing and in the shade. Being North facing it just doesnt get the sun. This doesnt detract from its quality. Perfect granite ( a little moist in the very early stages) and moves to match.

The first pitch is the crunch one. Joe led this, reaching the reachy move out of the niche fairly quickly. Getting into the niche is not so eay either. However the stretch, is a commiting move. One which you need to get right. And Joe duly delivered. On my go, I have to be honest I felt like it could have gone either way. But as is supported by the comments on UKC, once you go, it’s not so bad.

What follows is no pushover either. A dropping rail, with little for your feet leads to a commiting rock-over. A great pitch of climbing by any standards.

My pitch was definitely easier. It meanders back and forth up the headwall. Good gear keeps the nerves at bay. I went slightly wrong at the top getting a bit off route and barndooring when I reached the grass. But the climb is over by this point, with only the hideous exit up 12ft of vertical grass to contend with.

I am so grateful to have a partner like Joe, who consistently gets me pushing myself. I would not dream of tackling a route like this, without the knowledge that I’m with someone who can get us through the tough bits.

A day that will long stay in my memory.

2nd May 2025

Upton Slabs/Upton Arrowhead Pinnacle
Two Pints To Capel – VS 4b – Lead
Pewter Crack – VS 4c – Second
Foaming Jugs – HVS 5a – T/R dnf

It’s not often that I’ve run out of quickdrawers and this was not really the time for me to do it. It definitely made for a very nervy and exciting finish to Two Pints to Capel.

As a VS I was not expecting a route which felt so bold. The rock was the main issue, being unreliable on many occasions and this sows the seeds of doubt about gear placement. There are some good pieces, but a lot are small wire slots which I would not like to load, particularly in a leader fall.

The line of Two Pints to Capel follows the ab rope

The fact I ran out of quickdrawers and cams is testimony to how much gear I placed. It’s a long route, that accumulates in your toes. I found it tested my calmness to it’s limit. At one point, 8ft above my last piece of dubious gear (micro nut) I did question my life choices. Of course as soon as I toped out, it became the best route I’d climbed in ages. It’s all a case of the moment.

Joe just about to move onto the upper headwall

Our next destination was almost as opposite as you could get. A leaning stack of rock. Good gear, big holds but overhanging and very powerful. A proper contrast.

Joe dispatched the VS, but we chose to top rope the HVS. In hindsight, it was well within Joe’s capabilities, but when you havnt been climbing as often, a sense of doubt quickly sets in. It was too much for me with my puny muscles, but it was a great route. I’d like to return with more bravado and power. Maybe then it is within my sights.