2nd May 2025

Upton Slabs/Upton Arrowhead Pinnacle
Two Pints To Capel – VS 4b – Lead
Pewter Crack – VS 4c – Second
Foaming Jugs – HVS 5a – T/R dnf

It’s not often that I’ve run out of quickdrawers and this was not really the time for me to do it. It definitely made for a very nervy and exciting finish to Two Pints to Capel.

As a VS I was not expecting a route which felt so bold. The rock was the main issue, being unreliable on many occasions and this sows the seeds of doubt about gear placement. There are some good pieces, but a lot are small wire slots which I would not like to load, particularly in a leader fall.

The fact I ran out of quickdrawers and cams is testimony to how much gear I placed. It’s a long route, that accumulates in your toes. I found it tested my calmness to it’s limit. At one point, 8ft above my last piece of dubious gear (micro nut) I did question my life choices. Of course as soon as I toped out, it became the best route I’d climbed in ages. It’s all a case of the moment.

Our next destination was almost as opposite as you could get. A leaning stack of rock. Good gear, big holds but overhanging and very powerful. A proper contrast.

Joe dispatched the VS, but we chose to top rope the HVS. In hindsight, it was well within Joe’s capabilities, but when you havnt been climbing as often, a sense of doubt quickly sets in. It was too much for me with my puny muscles, but it was a great route. I’d like to return with more bravado and power. Maybe then it is within my sights.

So two crags in one day. Not bad. Good to see Joe again as always and good to climb ‘up North’. Will return soon.