All posts by dillwat

Climbing

There was a man who swallowed a fly……

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13th June 2023

Butter Hole – Hidden Amphitheatre

Mores the Pity – Severe 4b – Lead

So another beautiful evening at Butter Hole and this one included an epic. Chris’ words to Mike, “Its always an epic with Ian!” rang truer than usual with an outing to a part of the cliff which can only be described as fluid.

As a start we backed up the pretty rusty in situ belay stakes with a couple of our own. Good job really as the abseil went straight over the cave and we all had a bit of air time. I should have know that the upper sections would be loose when a couple of large blocks detached as I gingerly abbed off the grassy ledge.

The hidden amphitheatre, as it is called, is actually very impressive. On a sunny evening like we had with no swell it was idylic. It probably warranted a swim, but we underestimated how long I would faff on the fairly tough 4b crux of MTP. My head is definitely not quite there yet. I feel good in my climbing, but cant combine the two at the moment. It will come.

The crux is through an overhang, into a groove. Good pro for the move into the groove, but the holds run out just above and so does the gear for a bit. Add a desire to not trust the rock and you have the perfect head game.

It seemed a bit unfair on Mike. Only his second outing in a while and we all ended up on a belay at mid height. It turned out to be the right move as everything above moved, fell off or was grass. The size of some of the boulders Chris was moving around as he threaded his way to the ab rope was definitely disturbing.

But, we all made it out alive which is a bonus. In review, a good lower section and a suicidal upper one. No stars this time, but for drama what more could you ask for. The mist at the end added to this as we all left fairly content with our achievements.

As for the fly I inhaled and which got stuck in my throat on the way in. Well, its the first meat I’ve eaten in 30 years.

Climbing

Pick a rope… any rope

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9th June 2023

Dewerstone

Central Groove – HS 4b – Lead
Mambo Slab – V Diff – Lead

Climbing as a foursome, with one leader is always going to lead to a considerable amount of faff. The art of using 3 ropes isn’t easy either. On a single pitch you can get away with it. On a multi pitch with a snug belay… well to describe it as carnage would be accurate.

Tony below the impressive corner of Central Groove

For Tony, it was a return after a long absence. He is pretty much a natural climber though, due to his tree-surgery work. However to plunge him into a multi pitch was quite an introduction.

Tony on Central Groove

Mambo Slab is nothing exceptional. It has a tricky lower section because of polish, but overall fits the grade. It was why I thought Central Groove would be a good call. Follow average with amazing. And it duly delivered. But with a bit of a sting. Rigging a belay to accommodate 4 people was tough and despite careful planning, everything went out the window at the first possible moment. This led to coils of rope everywhere, kit scattered between all of us and a failed attempt for an orderly departure onto the second pitch.

Dave nonchalantly finishes laybacking the final corner of the second pitch of Central Groove.

Still, it was fun and by time we ended (with a very late lunch at 4.30) everyone was smiling, and also a lot more familiar with each other.

Climbing

The furnace

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7th June 2023

Bosigran

Ledge Climb – Hard V Diff – Lead
Alison Rib – Diff – Lead

Bosigran sort of acts like a satellite dish with the sun out. It seems to capture every ray that comes through. Add the heat radiating off the granite and it gets pretty warm.

Barry and me found this out the hard way. Even the strong breeze couldn’t make it through, so both climbs were done in the blazing sun. But having said that, they were both great fun. Its been 18 years since I last climbed Ledge Climb with Chris. 18 Years! And before that I’d done it with Bart, although I dont have a record of the date we did it.

I’d forgotten what a superb climb Ledge Climb is. You get straight into some steep ground on the first pitch (no push-over). A meandering second pitch takes you into the heart of Bosi. And then the ‘Coup de Gras’. A chimney followed by the famous ‘ledge’ or ramp. So much exposure combined with great climbing. Its a joyous climb. One to do if you need cheering up because its guaranteed to put a smile on your face.

For Barry, it was a steep learning curve. (Welcome to MagikRock Barry). His first lead follow was Alison Rib and then straight into multi-pitch. No problem with the climbing and a good head for heights. Barry is a natural. I can see many more adventures ahead.

Climbing

Charlie Brown you Blockhead!

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23rd May 2023

Predannack Head – International Buttress

End of Daze – VS 4c – Lead
Chopper – VS 4c – Lead

Dave has a unique ability. Despite all of us watching him coil a rope, no one has yet to identify how he manages to get a mystery loop included. The result of the mystery loop inevitably concludes with a tangled mess and many minutes of fun having to re-flake the rope before it can be used. It reminds me a lot of the old Shultz cartoons where CB tried to fly a kite which always ended up in a tangle.

Looking across at End of Daze with the square cut niche obvious on the top pillar

Today of course proved no different, but once sorted I set off to conquer the innocuous looking End of Daze. However I could be accused of not reading the guide properly which might have helped. All went well until the traverse at the square niche. I would add that whichever way you approach this move it feels bold. All is at your feet except for a small bunch of micros in dubious cracks within the niche.

I spent an inordinate amount of time trying to move into the niche, which was hard and felt very insecure. It was only after moving along the rim that I realised I was way too high. The guidebook does remark on this. Having completed it, it all seemed obvious, however for me it was a minor epic and it felt like I was there hanging around for ages. It was good though to get confirmation of its difficulty from both Tom and Dave who found it unerving.

Dave starting out on the tricky traverse on End of Daze

Chopper was a contrast. No delicate traverse here. It was a get stuck into the wide crack and then go for it with a layback in the top half. Very satisfying and a fitting partner to the other VS because it was such a contrast.

Dave helps Tom out of a Chossey Mess

We’ve now all but climbed out International Buttress with the exception of the E1’s and HVS around on the left wall (facing out to sea). We did drop down to take a gander. My advice here is go off the top block straight down the steep face. The rock on the left is a teetering mass of crap and should be avoided. We used it as an escape route, which didnt go well as big klumps kept coming off in our hands. Queue a saftey line from Dave to just settle the nerves. Avoid this if you can.

The East facing part of International Buttress
Climbing

Its not Witchcraft you know!

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(although by definition Wicca is)

18th April 2023
Wicca Pillar

The sloping ledge climb – V Diff – Lead
The Cracks – Severe 4a – Lead
The Little Mermaid – Severe 4b – Lead

Its not often that we go to a completely new venue, Why I’ve overlooked Wicca Pillar in the past I dont know, but its a really beautiful area. Surrounded by ancient bronze age field systems and on a not so travelled part of the coast it has quite a remote feeling. The walk in from Wicca Farm (bargain £2.00 parking) is lovely down lanes and tracks full of spring flowers and birdsong.

Stunning location as usual

It was Tom, Dave and me today. Looking for some relatively easy climbing as Dave continues his rehabilitation and tests his body on what is and is not possible. To be fair it suits me, as I am still very much in ‘post op’ recovery so gradually easing my way back into things.

The Pillar is basically a volcanic plug, sticking out from the base of the cliff. Accessible even at high tide, if there is no swell. Be warned though, any swell and the spray is likely to get you wet. Queue Dave who took another soaking. Seems to be a habit at the moment.

The Pillar. Note the sling on the left which we used as a final abseil

The rock is pretty crystalline and definitely needs care when you pull on it. The higher you go the more fragile it gets. There is also a surprising dearth of protection. For V Diff’s and Severe’s you would expect a lot more. But the climbing itself is straight forward. Getting off again is not as straight forward as the guidebook suggests. We rigged a temp abseil so we could go up and down, but the final climb meant throwing an old sling around a spike and leaving it there. I think we could of done the downclimb of the southern end of the pillar, but sea spray made it a bit slippy so we took the easy option.

Me on The sloping ledge climb

The gully containing The Little Mermaid is a good option when waves are spraying the main pillar. The rock on the flat topped ridge is even more unsound, but its sheltered and makes for a continuation of the day. The latter climb is given 4b purely for the opening moves. Its then all over. Again protected by micro’s which seem a bit extreme for a Severe.

Dave on The Cracks (Severe 4a)

The best of the routes I did was the V Diff in fact. Bold to start, but interesting technical moves. This is a good location for when you just want to rock up and get some easier routes done. Once again, Dave paid for past indiscretions with another soaking. You could say this is Karma. The sound of a raging sea around us definitely added to the atmosphere. Once a again a great day out with good mates.

Climbing

The mind is willing….

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7th April 2023

Predannack Head – International Buttress and Beginners Area

The Kyrgyz Boofalow – V Diff – Lead
Adder Skin – Diff – Lead

I knew I’d been to Beginners area before, but for the life of me I couldnt initially remember. Then it can flooding back. A day out with Pete where we were exploring this part of the headland.

Dave on Adder Skin. A Diff?? mmmh.
The line of Adder Skin

This day though it was Tom, Dave and Me. Beginners area is probably a bit of a misnomer. There are actually a number of E grades and a couple of stern VS’s. I think its well worth coming back here to give these a shot. On this day we tackled the most obvious line there, wending its way up the edge of the bounded slab. It looks like it should be harder, but it is a fairly straight forward outing. Keep tight to the vertical edge to make it slightly harder and more interesting.

Tom after the tough opening moves on The Kyrgyz Boofalow

The V Diff in the gulley at International Buttress ‘Kyrgyz’ has a bold and tense start. No obvious good holds, no pro and the prospect of a fall onto a ledge focus the mind for the first few moves. Once into the groove proper it relaxes and is straight forward. Not one for a novice V Diff leader I think. It also provided Dave with probably the hardest move he’s done since his return. Tom made easy work of it and it was time to pack up and avoid the tide once again.

Abbing into International Buttress

There is though unfinished business at International Buttress. The two VS’s look very enticing and I’ll be back soon to give these a go.

Climbing

Return of the Piper

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27th March 2023

Predannack Head – International Buttress

Entente – Diff – Lead
Cordiale – Diff – Lead
Golden Slab – Diff – Lead

So Dave and I are feeling our way back into climbing and Predannack Head seems to have an abundance of low grade routes, ideal for testing the body, but not stressing it.

Dave abbing into International Buttress

It is also an advantage that International Buttress is relatively close to the parking so provides a short walk in. However what is not so good, is route finding. At least until you ab in when all becomes clearer. The topo diagram in the Climbers Club book seems to distort the actual positions of the climbs. Basically, if you drop down what is an obvious, not too steep gulley to the right of the main buttress you will start to recognise the descriptions.

The line of Entente, just to the left of the ab rope on the lighter coloured rock

Considering we spent the day on Diffs, it was great fun. They are all nice routes. Not demanding, but interesting, and ideal for getting your head back in the right place for leading.

Dave does getting wet

Todays highlight was of course seeing Dave get a soaking while trapped down in the gulley. Ahh, so now you know how it feels Dave! On a serious note, had the swell been bigger it would have been quite dodgy. One to do when things are calmer I think.

Predannack of course just keeps delivering on the entertainment front.

Climbing

Two days at Bosi

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1st and 2nd March 2023

Bosigran

Kate – V Diff – Lead
In Between – V Diff – Second
Alison Rib – Diff – Second
Oread – HV Diff – Lead
Oread Bypass – HV Diff – Lead

It is strange how the difficulty of grades becomes distorted as you progress through them. A couple of years ago Chris and me were comfortable at the VS grade and looking at them as a warm up to harder climbs.

So targeting V Diffs as a sort of training day, we were thinking they would be a push over. Of course we were quickly reminded that all climbing has its moments and although not hard, the V Diffs were mentally challenging when you are stiff, out of condition and your head is not in the game.

The climbs around the Alison Rib area all turned out to be worthwhile. I’d go as far as to say a novice V Diff leader would probably have found Oread in particular, a harrowing experience. Unprotected mantelshelves are not usual at this grade. In between also had a tricky move. I think in general none of these should be underestimated, but they do provide a testing transition into this and the Severe grade.

Day one was Chris and myself and day two Tom and me. It was good to get some mileage in and my op scar didn’t trouble me, so that bodes well for the future. Climbing out with packs up Alison Rib proved a good call. It all downhill back to the car. Bonus!

Days like this often come down to being in good company and both days progressed my feeling of wellbeing in the right direction.

Climbing

When Sennen goes full Ice Rink

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21st Feb 2023

Sennen

Corner Climb – V Diff – Lead
Intermediate Route – Hard V Diff – Second

My first day back climbing since my op. This was more of a tester to see how it would behave and whether I was starting back a bit too early.

However it wasn’t too bad. Not perfect by any means. I realised yarding on holds was out and full stretches were uncomfortable. But what a great feeling to be out on the rock again.

So two V Diffs on the Demo Route face was the order of the day. Fairly basic, but when you’re rusty it provides enough of a challenge. I’ve done Corner Crack before, so this time it was Corner Climb a slightly softer variation, but entertaining moves and really enjoyable. Chris opted for Intermediate Route, found just to the left.

Chris on Corner Climb
Chris on Corner Climb

Both of us didn’t strictly stick to the topo. Mixing sections with adjacent routes, but it was fun. The glass like rock on the wave washed platform was probably the most challenging part of the day. Getting across it without falling and breaking something was an accomplishment.

Climbing

40 doesn’t make a Right Angle

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1st September 2022

Gurnards Head

Right Angle – VS – 4b (variation) Lead P1, P3

Climbing seems to be becoming a very intermittent activity for me at the moment. So it was really good to get out with Chris and get back on the rock.

The blank looking 2nd Pitch

A return to a classic is always worthwhile and Right Angle is unmistakably a classic. Never hard, but continually interesting with three distinct sections. A fairly juggy and contorted first pitch, leads to an unlikely second with a bare looking wall 9if you do the variation VS version which tbh feels no harder than the original line). And then of course you have the vertical corner pitch. Glorious climbing in a great position.

Chris’s hanging belay

We only did the one route. It seemed enough on the day. I think sometimes you just have to make the most of a route like RA. Chatting with the Royal Marines added some interest. What an amazing job they have, although I wouldn’t fancy it in times like this.

The grand final corner

So Chris and I are going to revisit some classics now. Check back through the log book and pick up on some of the early routes we did when we were ‘learning the ropes’. Oh yes. And 40m ropes are not quite long enough. 50’s are better for RA.