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Climbing

Ambiguous Grades

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22nd July 2011
Zennor Cliff
Rosebud in June – HVS 5a – Lead
The Bumbles – VS 5a – Lead

As is often the case the day started out a bit grey with some drizzle. West Penwith though has its own micro climate and its always worth persevering. As it turned out it was the right choice.

Additionally, Alex had decided to come along too, a rarity these days so I wanted to make sure it was a good one. Equally Dominic was keen to keep pushing his grades, so it was going to have to be a good day.

Rosebud in June is the line to the left of The Royal Forrester and one I’ve had my eye on for a while. It looks like it is covered with lichen, but dont let that deceive you because it isnt. RIB is split into two parts really. A more technical bottom section followed by a magnificent crack leading all the way to the top.

The bottom section section has a tricky move across and up into the niche. Described as poorly protected in the guidebooks it is not really the case. You can get good solid pro in before you move which will protect you but then it is a few metres before the next arrives. As the move is low down it is a bit intimidating, but as long as your belayer is on the ball they will catch you.

The rest is brilliant. Well protected climbing on a line that sores above the deep zawn below. The views around are beautiful and on this day the colour of the sea was a fantastic blue. Dominic and Aletx arrived at the top with the biggest smiles on. Pumped, full of adreneline and raving about how good the climb was. Rare praise indeed from Alex. We all sat at the top in silence just trying to take it all in.

Now The Bumbles was a grade lower and considerably shorter. I had scouted this last time I was here and wanted to have a go. It looked hard for the grade and so it proved.

Its well protected and steep. In fact overhanging slightly. It looks like its full of holds, but they are suprisingly hard to come by, at least ones that are useful. Once on it I found that it didnt let up. No obvious rest spots so its a case of keep on going to a final and awkward move onto the slab. I laced it with gear which didnt help, but found it considerably harder that RIB. OK its short, but technically and physically its more demanding. Still a really good climb which showed no mercy with Dominic and Alex shrugging them off on the top moves. All persevered and made it, while for Dominic it was probably too much too soon. I forget he’s only been out a few times with little indoor practice. Taking that into account he did really well. Its one to come back to.

To top an excellent day we stopped at The Tinners Arms for beer. Many inuendo’s later I took a slightly light headed Alex home to face the music from his mum. Top day..

 

Climbing

What a difference the sun makes.

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9th July 2011

Carn Gowla

Four for Texas – E1 5a – Second

Rainbow Games – E2 5b – Second

After three weeks away in Corsica where I worked my legs hard but not my arms, this was a short sharp reminder on how to climb.

Carn Gowla is renown as a scary location. High seacliffs, with shear drops toward the sea and a forbidding darkness make them feel threatening. However add a dash of sunshine like we had and the place feels a lot more amenable. Part of the scariness comes from the steeply sloping grassy cliff tops which appear to disappear at the cliff edge.

In reality the drop offs are not so bad. There are a number of platforms which you can use as gearing up ledges and we duly located one above the Triple Buttress area. An ab down saw us on a fairly substantial belay ledge, although with a rising tide and some swell it felt a bit exposed.

Nick had a couple of E grades in mind and from the gearing up ledge they looked brilliant. Once at the base they looked even better. Nick has been pushing his grades recently and it showed as he cruised up Rainbow Games, a very pumpy and sustained E2. The pro is pretty good and the holds excellent, but you are on power the whole time. I would have struggled leading just on the basis of sustained effort. The move off the ledge is no pushover either. At the end of the day though it was an amazing climb and I managed it cleanly which boosted my confidence no end.

Four for Texas is actually an easier climb, but the pro is not as good and more care is needed with the holds which are more brittle. It is still very good though and because of the juggy holds is a real pleasure to climb. If I had to choose to lead one it would be RG.

So ended a great return to climbing which has inspired me to want to go on and add to my lonely E1.

Climbing

Now what was the name of that climb?

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Hawk’s Tor
19 th May 2011

The Cat’s ‘ere – Severe 4b – Lead
Recollection – HS 4b – Lead
Black Beastie – VS 4c – Lead

The stroll up to the tor through the fern and bracken  brought about another deer sighting. Every time I’ve been to the North Hill area I have seen deer. This one broke cover, sprinting back towards the trees having been stood right in our path. Dominic’s keen eyesight picking it up.

Hawks-Tor_May11-001

Once again this was a day when we saw no one. A bit windy and unsettled, we made the most of the changing conditions trying to climb in the lee of the tor. This was the first time Dominic and I had climbed as buddies and it was a good chance to test out his progress. So the aim was to increase a grade on each climb.

The Cat’s ‘ere was first up. I had seen a couple of climbers struggling on the top move of this one last time I was at the tor, so I thought it could be tricky.

It’s really a one move wonder of a climb, well protected, but favouring the taller person. Get your body shape right and its OK, otherwise I thinkit requires a strenuous pull up. A good warm up for what was to come.

Hawks-Tor_May11-002

I spent all day forgetting the name of the second climb we did, which is ironic cos its called ‘Recollection’ Duhhh!! This was completely different, requiring bridging and a finishing with a nervy top out. Again well protected if you have Cam’s for the horizontal breaks. The 4b move was not as difficult on this as TCE imo, but I suppose different moves suit different climbers. Dominic also found this one easier, but it does feel a little more exposed.

Hawks-Tor_May11-004Hawks-Tor_May11-003

We saved the best until last though. I’d eye’d up Black Beastie last time I was here but ran out of time. No excuse this time, so we geared up. The start is really interesting. It can be done two ways. As a step over from the opposing boulder or straight up. Have faffed around on the step over for a few minutes I climbed it direct which improved my balance no end.. The Rowan tree is a pain, but offers good pro. I tried not to use it as a hold, which made the move into the crack awkward. Still it adds character to the climb.

Hawks-Tor_May11-006

At this point my common sense deserted me; why bother using two ropes on a meandering climb when you can thread them as a single and generate huge amounts of rope drag. Which is precisely what I did meaning I made the precarious and balancy top move with about 4 ft of slack in the system for fear of being pulled off. It would have made for a fine ‘whipper’. The route though is great, with lots of slopers, jams and pinches. Gear is there when you need it, although the top move is protected by a lonely cam in a fairly shallow placement. Its enough and I’m posative it would hold.

Well worth climbing is my feeling. Maybe the sunshine and drop in wind helped make it seem better but I would give it stars.
We finished off with a bouldering session, working our way around the tor. Having met Sean Hawkin last week at Gold Digging quarry I’m looking forward to his revised data on bouldering routes here and on Kilmar Tor across the valley. There seems to be loads of it around.

Climbing

Now what was the name of that climb?

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Hawk’s Tor
19 th May 2011

The Cat’s ‘ere – Severe 4b – Lead
Recollection – HS 4b – Lead
Black Beastie – VS 4c – Lead

The stroll up to the tor through the fern and bracken  brought about another deer sighting. Every time I’ve been to the North Hill area I have seen deer. This one broke cover, sprinting back towards the trees having been stood right in our path. Dominic’s keen eyesight picking it up.

Hawks-Tor_May11-001

Once again this was a day when we saw no one. A bit windy and unsettled, we made the most of the changing conditions trying to climb in the lee of the tor. This was the first time Dominic and I had climbed as buddies and it was a good chance to test out his progress. So the aim was to increase a grade on each climb.

The Cat’s ‘ere was first up. I had seen a couple of climbers struggling on the top move of this one last time I was at the tor, so I thought it could be tricky.

It’s really a one move wonder of a climb, well protected, but favouring the taller person. Get your body shape right and its OK, otherwise I thinkit requires a strenuous pull up. A good warm up for what was to come.

Hawks-Tor_May11-002

I spent all day forgetting the name of the second climb we did, which is ironic cos its called ‘Recollection’ Duhhh!! This was completely different, requiring bridging and a finishing with a nervy top out. Again well protected if you have Cam’s for the horizontal breaks. The 4b move was not as difficult on this as TCE imo, but I suppose different moves suit different climbers. Dominic also found this one easier, but it does feel a little more exposed.

Hawks-Tor_May11-004Hawks-Tor_May11-003

We saved the best until last though. I’d eye’d up Black Beastie last time I was here but ran out of time. No excuse this time, so we geared up. The start is really interesting. It can be done two ways. As a step over from the opposing boulder or straight up. Have faffed around on the step over for a few minutes I climbed it direct which improved my balance no end.. The Rowan tree is a pain, but offers good pro. I tried not to use it as a hold, which made the move into the crack awkward. Still it adds character to the climb.

Hawks-Tor_May11-006

At this point my common sense deserted me; why bother using two ropes on a meandering climb when you can thread them as a single and generate huge amounts of rope drag. Which is precisely what I did meaning I made the precarious and balancy top move with about 4 ft of slack in the system for fear of being pulled off. It would have made for a fine ‘whipper’. The route though is great, with lots of slopers, jams and pinches. Gear is there when you need it, although the top move is protected by a lonely cam in a fairly shallow placement. Its enough and I’m posative it would hold.

Well worth climbing is my feeling. Maybe the sunshine and drop in wind helped make it seem better but I would give it stars.
We finished off with a bouldering session, working our way around the tor. Having met Sean Hawkin last week at Gold Digging quarry I’m looking forward to his revised data on bouldering routes here and on Kilmar Tor across the valley. There seems to be loads of it around.

Climbing

Rise of the super hero…

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13th May 2011

Bosigran

Andrew – Severe 4a – Lead
Trapese – HVS 5a – Lead

I wasnt sure Bosi was the right place to climb, because of the stiff westerley but as it happened we were fine climbing in the recessed area around Andrew. Also having sunshine always cheers things up and for Dave who had never been to Bosi it brought out all of Bosi’s magical scenery.

Bosigran_May11-002

I realised I wasnt climbing with an ordinary mortal when Dave posed for pre climb shots. Clearly no one would pose like this unless they had super powers! Then I remembered how he hobbled just as much as I did on our walk on Bodmin and realised this was just bravado. Anyway a couple of good pitches at Bosi would wipe the smile off his face (or put a bigger one on it)

Bosigran_May11-001Bosigran_May11-006
Bosigran_May11-013

I hadnt climbed Andrew in a long while and it was my first multi pitch route so what better place to introduce Dave to multi pitch. I had also forgotten how good a climb it is. A bit meandering but each pitch brings something new: an arete followed by a delicate traverse, then an exposed balancy ‘shuffle’ and finally (and the best bit) a chimney which calls for some working out. Its not difficult if you climb it right. But thats the why so many peole find it hard, as I did the first time. Dave made a briliant job of it working out which way to face which is the key.

Popping up at the top we met a Swiss girl walking the Penwith coast, the only other person we met all day. Its not often you get Bosi to yourself.

Bosigran_May11-017Bosigran_May11-014
Bosigran_May11-015

Climb two was a different proposition. Trapese is a great climb, if only a little short. Well protected, you have to make sure you dont place your gear where you want your hands and feet to go. The Crux for me was the move up into the vertical crack. It took me ages to work it out and by then I’d thoroughly pumped my arms. I left just enough to pull through to grateful resting postion near the top. A large Hex set sideways will protect the top crack, just… or a large CAM which I didnt have. Still a great climb.

I wondered how Dave would find the climb as he hasnt climbed a lot recently, but he went through it with no problems. Its only when you are at the top that you realsie how overhanging the corner is. Another HVS tick for me which I am really pleased with.

Little Brown Jug had to wait as the wind was a bit fierce on the main face, so thats the next target when I return. The end of another fantastic days climbing and a pat on the back for having this on our doorstep.

Climbing

Rise of the super hero…

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13th May 2011

Bosigran

Andrew – Severe 4a – Lead
Trapese – HVS 5a – Lead

I wasnt sure Bosi was the right place to climb, because of the stiff westerley but as it happened we were fine climbing in the recessed area around Andrew. Also having sunshine always cheers things up and for Dave who had never been to Bosi it brought out all of Bosi’s magical scenery.

Bosigran_May11-002

I realised I wasnt climbing with an ordinary mortal when Dave posed for pre climb shots. Clearly no one would pose like this unless they had super powers! Then I remembered how he hobbled just as much as I did on our walk on Bodmin and realised this was just bravado. Anyway a couple of good pitches at Bosi would wipe the smile off his face (or put a bigger one on it)

Bosigran_May11-001Bosigran_May11-006
Bosigran_May11-013

I hadnt climbed Andrew in a long while and it was my first multi pitch route so what better place to introduce Dave to multi pitch. I had also forgotten how good a climb it is. A bit meandering but each pitch brings something new: an arete followed by a delicate traverse, then an exposed balancy ‘shuffle’ and finally (and the best bit) a chimney which calls for some working out. Its not difficult if you climb it right. But thats the why so many peole find it hard, as I did the first time. Dave made a briliant job of it working out which way to face which is the key.

Popping up at the top we met a Swiss girl walking the Penwith coast, the only other person we met all day. Its not often you get Bosi to yourself.

Bosigran_May11-017Bosigran_May11-014
Bosigran_May11-015

Climb two was a different proposition. Trapese is a great climb, if only a little short. Well protected, you have to make sure you dont place your gear where you want your hands and feet to go. The Crux for me was the move up into the vertical crack. It took me ages to work it out and by then I’d thoroughly pumped my arms. I left just enough to pull through to grateful resting postion near the top. A large Hex set sideways will protect the top crack, just… or a large CAM which I didnt have. Still a great climb.

I wondered how Dave would find the climb as he hasnt climbed a lot recently, but he went through it with no problems. Its only when you are at the top that you realsie how overhanging the corner is. Another HVS tick for me which I am really pleased with.

Little Brown Jug had to wait as the wind was a bit fierce on the main face, so thats the next target when I return. The end of another fantastic days climbing and a pat on the back for having this on our doorstep.

Climbing

Benchmark!

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19th April 2011

St Loy Cliff

Monochrome Men – E1 5b – Lead

The previous Saturday ahd reall been bugging me. I was hyped and ready to go for M Men, but the weather put paid to any chance then. Feeling slightly deflated I spent Sunday winding myself up to the point where on Monday morning I collared Pete and begged him to come and belay me.

St-Loy_Apr11-Pano

Given that Pete had a bad finger this was a little unfair but Pete with his usual generosity agreed immediately. And so I spent a nervous Tuesday Psyching myself up for the climb.

Whilst Pete spent the walk in gazing at the fantastic views I was very much pre occupied with working out how I was going to approach my first E grade lead. As it happened, events have a way of just taking control and in double quick time we were set up and ready to go. Monochrome Men did not disappoint. It’s an amazing climb. A tricky initial mantleshelf followed by a strenuous pull onto the face and then the best bit. Twin cracks leading up a fantastic open face. Lots of holds and pro right up to about 8ft from the top when suddenly I was faced with a very hard finish.

My recent use of hand jams came in ‘handy’ so to speak, enabling me to pull through to the thank god rim of the slab. I spent the next ten minutes thinking I was going to be sick. All that adrenaline had to go somewhere, but what a fantastic feeling. 

I’ve now achieved my aim in climbing for my 50th year on one of the best climbs I’ve evr been on. It cant be bad and many thanks to Pete for his time.

Climbing

The sunniest and warmest place in Britain….. or not

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16th April 2011
St Loy Cliff

Sabre Dance – E1 5c – Top Rope
Smear Fear – E2 5C – Top Rope

St Loy has a reputation of being one of the warmest places in the country. The old bronze age field systems were said to be the first in the country to be harvested. So therefore why was the only place in Cornwall not to have sunshine and warm weather St Loy! Look either way along the coast there was blue sky, but ovel the crag there was a nasty dark cload which proceeded to unload an hour and a half’s rain on us.

St-Loy_Apr11-009St-Loy_Apr11-008

This was going to be the day I did my first E1 lead but having been forced to top rope for the morning and with the pm feeling chilly in the wind we chose to spend the day top ropping. There is something to be said for top roping though, in that it allows you to climb with complete focus on the climbing without the responsibility associated with placing protection. Not as exciting or challenging, but equally as enjoyable. Under these circumstances and with Steve along with us on his first outing on Cornish rock it was eminently sensible.

St-Loy_Apr11-007

We moved to the Test Piece buttress because of its accesibility and also the variety of climbs available. Starting on the East end we tackled a few un-named climbs which gave Steve a chance to test himself out. On my go I drifted left from a starting crack and ended up on Smear Fear an E2 5c with small holds and foot placements. It was hard work but I made it. It’s amazing how grippy the rock is at St Loy. The guidbook calls it immaculate granite and for good reason.

St-Loy_Apr11-002

Then the anti was upped as Chris tackled Test Piece another  E2 5c with a thuggish final sequence. The holds are their but it pays to keep moving as your arms tire quickly.

St-Loy_Apr11-7St-Loy_Apr11-5
St-Loy_Apr11-3St-Loy_Apr11-2

The best of the E numnbers though is Sabre Dance. Graded E1 5c it is hard and very fingery. Again good foot placement helps a lot. Having been grossly unfair on Steve with the E climbs we moved West and finished on a couple of grooves. These were made much harder by the fact they were so covered in moss and lichen. Its a shame because under all that growth there are a couple of good climbs here. Again not in the guidebook but, worthy of being listed. I’m sure someone has recorded these as first ascents, but they need a lot more traffic before they came into condition.

St-Loy_Apr11-014

The walk out as usual sapped our strength, but the beauty of the area is always inspiring. My only regret was that I didnt get to do my E grade on the lead.

Climbing

Benchmark!

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19th April 2011

St Loy Cliff

Monochrome Men – E1 5b – Lead

The previous Saturday ahd reall been bugging me. I was hyped and ready to go for M Men, but the weather put paid to any chance then. Feeling slightly deflated I spent Sunday winding myself up to the point where on Monday morning I collared Pete and begged him to come and belay me.

St-Loy_Apr11-Pano

Given that Pete had a bad finger this was a little unfair but Pete with his usual generosity agreed immediately. And so I spent a nervous Tuesday Psyching myself up for the climb.

Whilst Pete spent the walk in gazing at the fantastic views I was very much pre occupied with working out how I was going to approach my first E grade lead. As it happened, events have a way of just taking control and in double quick time we were set up and ready to go. Monochrome Men did not disappoint. It’s an amazing climb. A tricky initial mantleshelf followed by a strenuous pull onto the face and then the best bit. Twin cracks leading up a fantastic open face. Lots of holds and pro right up to about 8ft from the top when suddenly I was faced with a very hard finish.

My recent use of hand jams came in ‘handy’ so to speak, enabling me to pull through to the thank god rim of the slab. I spent the next ten minutes thinking I was going to be sick. All that adrenaline had to go somewhere, but what a fantastic feeling. 

I’ve now achieved my aim in climbing for my 50th year on one of the best climbs I’ve evr been on. It cant be bad and many thanks to Pete for his time.