Bosigran
12th April 2013
Flat Top – HS 4b – Lead
Crazy Man Michael – VS 4c – Second
Little Brown Jug (Variation Start P1) – HVS/VS 5a? – Lead
Thin Wall Special(P2) – E1 5b/5a – Lead
Trapeze – HVS 5a – Second
I challenge you to read the title and not hum the tune in your head (or I’m a bit abi normal) I’m sat here looking out the window at drizzle, whereas yesterday at Bosi we were treated to Sunshine and a glorious day.
It was a strange day actually for me. Five climbs in my logbook, but in reality it was three. This was on account of a mix and match approach to our routes. Having walked away from Sinistra which looked more like a waterfall, we started on Flat Top, a really nice HS with some good moves getting past the overhang to the corner.
As it happened overhangs played quite a part on this day. Joe’s lead on pitch two was Crazy Man Michael which starts with a … you’ve guessed it… a overhang. A lot tougher than Flat Top though. You never feel in balance and its strenuous. Having cleared this though the climbing continues up the exposed arete at a much more amenable level. It is well worth doing.
Meanwhile the rest of the crew (Tom, Dave, Pete, Chris and Nick who made the long journey down from the wilds of Dartmoor) were on their own routes. Chris and Nick on the by all accounts very good Venusberg and the others on the classic Andrew. A climb I have fond memories of as it was my first multi pitch route with Bart. The step out from the ledge onto the slab is always tense because you never quite feel settled. A good lead from Dave on this one. Venusberg is definitely on my list for next time out.
Having taken a closer look at Visions of Johanna, discretion finally got the better part of valour and I opted for a try on Little Brown Jug’s variation start in order to get to P2 of Thin Wall Special. Originally we had planned this for a threesome, but it made sense for Nick and Chris to get on a route instead of hanging around so they went off to do the brilliant Paragon.
The overhang start (there it is again) seemed OK to me, but the next move is very tin if you continue on a direct line. A bridging move right opens up the good holds higher up and then the climbing is fun right up to the belay ledge of Doorway/Thin Wall Special. Joe kindly deferred this one to me as I had wanted to lead TWS and the top pitch looked wild.
It didnt disappoint. The corner of Doorway is good climbing in its own right and when you get to the roof it seems a bit improbable that it goes at 5a. A move up into the niche gives a chance for a breather and then its stepping out under yet another overhang and aiming for the gap. I found it really scary and although the holds are quite positive you need to shape yourself to get across to the finishing jugs. I just made it but hanging off the final jug dangling 150ft up is amazing.
Joe had to go one better by cutting loose with his feet, but his grin gave away how much he enjoyed himself, even if he looked thoroughly knackered.
Back at the bags with Nick and Chris still on Paragon and Dave leading Flat Top we decided on a last route so Joe had a go on the fierce but short Trapeze. Its all packed into two crux’s, but with the big No 4 Camelot on board Joe could protect the top offwidth crack. I like the route, but I imagine Pete doesnt having given it his best but on this occasion been defeated. I know the feeling well. Another day then.
As usual 7 hours passed like 7 minutes and we were late returning, but it was the culmination of another great adventure on the Cornish Coast and we have many more planned.
