If Carlsberg made crags……

July 26, 2013 dillwat Leave a comment

26th July 2013

Pembroke – St Governs Head

Army Dreamers – HVS 5a – Lead
But Incest is Best – E1 5b – Second
Bomb Bay – VS 4c – Lead
The Loosener – HVS 5a – Second
The Arrow – E1 5b – Second

Pembroke is surprisingly further than you think. Looking at the map it shouldnt be so far, but a small matter of the bristol Channel gets in the way. Having said that Nick and I made remarkably good time getting up there on Thursday night turning up at St Petrocs campsite full of curry ( a re-occurring theme of this trip) and ready to get a good nights sleep in before hitting the crags the next day.

I had no idea what to expect from Pembroke except from Nicks comments on how good it was. In fact I didnt even realise it was limestone and not granite. So after a short walk in to St Governs Head we duly abseiled onto the high tide platform in Army Dreamers area.

View down the Coast towards Stennis Head

At this point I probably experienced what many new climbers do in an area of such steep rock. Awe. The whole cliff is vertical (it sounds obvious, but so much of what we climb in Cornwall is not) and when you look down the coast each way it goes on for mile after mile. I’ve never seen so much climbing packed into one part of the coast.

I kicked off initially on Army Dreamers mistaking it for a VS instead of an HVS. It didnt matter, The climbing is completely absorbing. A nervy traverse turns into some full on crack climbing. The whole route is excellent and was a brilliant intro to Welsh limestone. By time I finished my arms were suitably pumped. Nick said this would be good training for stamina and I was starting to understand why.

But Incest is Best is much harder. More sustained and overhanging it has a really difficult section at mid height which takes some working out and a bit of nerve if you are on the lead like Nick. Although shorter it too eats into your stamina. I was realising that one aspect of climbing here was to keep moving if possible.

I never go anywhere without having at least one mare. Looking down from BIIB I saw a crack running up the opposite wall. Believing myself to have suddenly turned into a crack climbing maestro I decided this would be a good challenge. It stopped me dead in my tracks. Saty hands and a lack of technique did for me and I had to hand over to Nick to show me how it should be done. I have a way to go before I get the hang of this ‘jamming’ thing.

The amazing The Arrow - Nick near the rising flake. — The amazing The Arrow – Nick near the rising flake.

Bomb Bay flattered to deceive. It looks brilliant from the ground, but a very loose top section detracts from it. I enjoyed it, but there were some worrying moments.

Nick just before the hard moves onto the upper slab. The Arrow

Now The Arrow is in a class of its own. Nick, not satisfied with picking a cracker of a route also wanted to see his belayer drown as entertainment. With the sun setting and the tide rising Nick set off up a great climb. A bold start leads to a rising flake. This in turn gives way to a thin section leading to the upper slab. A final traverse gets you to the top. It is a classic climb which takes advantage of all the features in that area. I loved it and managed to jump up onto a large rock to escape a soaking which looked inevitable earlier.

Tired we both returned to the campsite for a plateful of Rogan Riddell (minus the tomatoes which gave it a very un appetising grey colour). St Petrocs is a really nice site. Not too busy on this weekend, but with good facilities and a flat pitch. Definitely a good base when in the area.

Bomb Bay before the loose stuff near the top.

Climbing

Interplanetary travel

July 14, 2013 dillwat Leave a comment

13th July 2013

Carn Gowla

Mercury – E2 5b – Alt Lead

Guaranteed adventure. That’s what Gowla always promises and that’s exactly what it delivered on this day and by the bucketful.

This had been a long sought after route for Nick, especially as he started it a few years back but had to abandon the top pitch because of the damp. So on a glorious morning we set off to complete the mission.

Half of the difficulty in tackling Mercury is in the preparation. You need a pre placed belay rope because of the loose nature of the top out. This has to be positioned above the main slab. However you also need an ab rope which is positioned across to the right facing out. This requires an 80m odd diagonal descent to reach the starting ledge.

So it was some last minute skills training for me in how to pass a knot. To be fair I love all of this. It’s part of the overall event of climbing a route like Mercury. But what it does do is add to the nerves. Mercury is a serious route. Probably not the most technically difficult route, but the difficulty level is high because of all the paraphernalia that accompanies it.

The first pitch strikes up the corner crack aiming for a very convenient ledge at half height. A series of jamming and bridging moves gets you to the offwidth crack. This stopped me dead in my tracks. To be fair I initially didnt have a clue how I was going to get up it. A few nervous giggles later I launched into a series of udge’s and grunts (technical lingo) that enabled me to gain enough height to take advantage of a convenient foot placement and the placing of a ‘thank God’ cam in a small undercut. Dutch courage restored I gave it everything to pull up through to the flake making it by the skin of my teeth. How satisfying was that!

View from the crux offwidth having made it halfway. Little cam in!!

My work done I relaxed on the ledge as Nick came up choosing to completely reverse my technique facing left rather than right. It worked though and we both contemplated pitch two from the ledge.

The pre requisit pose before starting on the bold Pitch 2 of Mercury

Woo Hwoo. Pitch two is a different proposition completely. It didnt help that we’d left the guidebook behind and the line is not obvious. Nick set about making it ten times as difficult as it should be. Bloody show off! Commiting to a really thin traverse across to a dubious looking peg in the middle of the upper face I muttered encouragement. 25ft out with no gear, the peg decided to fall off as Nick clearly looked at it too harshly. Three rubbish bits of gear later Nick set off up the head wall finding little else in the way of protection and finally deciding to traverse back left a put some gear in the top of the original groove.

As it turned out this is where he should have started the traverse, but Nick clearly wanted to the crux moves at least three times to get full satisfaction out of the climb. It was an amazing effort in my opinion. Having made the same set of moves a bit later I know I wouldnt have been able to keep my head together.

In the end though it all turned out well with loads of whoops accompanying the completion of a really memorable route, probably the high point of my climbing so far in terms of an overall accomplishment and a fantastic day out at Gowla.

I’ve done Mercury for God’s sake!!!!

Top of the groove. Where we should have been.

The mist just added to Gowla’s awe inspiring scenary.

Nick disappearing in the fog. All we needed was pirates.

Climbing

More like a grin

July 12, 2013 dillwat Leave a comment

12th July 2013

Lower Sharpnose

Lunakhod – HVS 5a – Lead
The Smile – E1 5a – Lead

After checking the tides Tom and I had little hesitation in picking out Sharpnose as a destination. With no swell as well, we knew that for the majority of the day Sharpnose would OK. It was also a good excuse to check out a new destination and look at a couple of climbs I had wanted to do for a while.

Both Lunakhod and The Smile get 3 stars in the guide and equally they were two climbs that were realistic for us to attempt.

Lunakhod soars up the left side of the middle fin, following an easily identifiable line. Its a corner which just keeps on going. From a tricky start you get stuck into the climb proper with a couple more awkward sections following. It’s the last few metres which are the wildest though. The moves up through the overhang come at a point when your starting to feel the strain. Plenty of gear so it is more of a physical struggle than a mentle one. Look down though and you get a real taste of exposure. Tom clearly enjoyed it as much as I did but both of us felt the 42 metres of climbing.

The reams of tat at the top provide the abseil point. 5 carabiners and 5 slings are just about adequate given their condition. I let Tom test them out and when they didnt gice way figured it was safe for me to go. Ta Tom!

We had seen The Smile from above as we inadvertantly abbed off right above it. From above it looks overhanging although it is more of a bulging. We both found the start tricky, more so for Tom as he’s shorter than me. But once into the left trending groove you are on power all the time with only a few semi rests. It really is a stamina test and by time I arrived at the vertical crack I was feeling the pace.

This also holds the crux moves so it’s a case of get stuck into it asap and keep on going. I really enjoyed this even though I felt near to the end of my reserves. There is nothing like the feeling you get when you make it to easier ground and the sense of satisfaction. Tom remarked he preferred this route and I can see why. I’d give them both top marks though. Two classics.

The rounded boulders are refreshing after course granite.

Lunch sat above the fins just reminded us once again how lucky we are to live in the West Country. Sharpnose is pretty unique and awe inspiring. I’m sure we will return soon to take a look at some of the E2’s!!!

Climbing

It’s behind you!!!!

July 5, 2013 dillwat Leave a comment

5th July 2013

Carn Kenidjack

Seadreams Cliff and The Main Face

Seadreams – HS 4b – Lead
Great Central – Severe 4a – Lead
The Shield – E1 5a – Lead

The first time anyone goes to Carn Kenidjack it has the same wow effect on them. A near vertical wall which at first glance looks featureless is an intimidating sight. For four of the team on this day it was their first time and I’m sure it didnt disappoint.

We started on the Seadreams Cliff thinking we had plenty of tide and that there was little swell. Wrong on both counts I’m afraid. Plenty of swell which kept washing up the ramp below the routes and threatening to engulf our feet. Chris and I went haring off up a route each thinking that we’d only get one in, only to find we had time for a second and had only succeeded in cocking up the rotating leads. Oh well, it turned out well for me which is the important thing. 🙂

A killer belay..... at least it will be when that rock lands on Chris! — A killer belay….. at least it will be when that rock lands on Chris!

Both routes on the Seadreams cliff were good if a bit short in stature. We all got a crack at both pitches. Seadreams is the better of the two, but with a stunning view across to Cape Cornwall both seemed brilliant on this day. The pushing tide was threatening to swamp someone on the ramp. Chris as the last man standing confidently watched a surge miss him on the cliff side without realising that it nearly got him from behind although he was totally oblivious to this.

The it was time for the main event! We down climbed into Kenidjack. Its steep and is intimidating at first, but secure enough if you are confident. As you walk into the amphitheatre you suddenly realise how magnificent the main face is. A shear wall that seems blank at first but is full of holds and cracks.

First view of the main face for the crew.

Chris and Dave set up for Saxon Direct. This is probably my favorite climb of all time. It has everything. It seems unlikely at the grade but as it unfolds you realise there are holds a plenty. Gear can be hard to find unless you think carefully. It’s there, but it takes some finding.

Dave at the horizontal crack before the tough top wall of Saxon Direct

The same could be said for the Shield. The bottom pitch has spaced gear but its good. The climbing is pretty good too and no pushover. Tom and Pete seemed to really enjoy this pitch and we all ended up at a very cosy belay. From here the character of the climb changes. No longer good gear and larger holds. Now it becomes small crimpy holds and foot placements and poor gear for about 10 metres.

A very relieved me after getting through the bold section of P2 The Shield

Once you get to the groove of Thane there is something and you can breathe a sigh of relief. Up to that point the motto is ‘dont fall off’. We all made it though and a very satisfied team collected at the gearing up ‘hole’ to pat each other on the back a recollect at what was an amazing day.

Cornwall delivers again with excitement, beauty and in our case, comradery.

Pete working his way up the technical upper wall.

Dave setting out onto the main wall on Saxon.

Chris working his way up the brilliant Saxon.

Some of the tricky moves at the end of pitch 1 The Shield

The team take on Kenidjack. Chris on Saxon, me on The Shield.

Chris after the tough bouldery start to Saxon

Me contemplating the start of The Shield. Now where have those holds gone?

Stunning spring blooms – and I dont mean Tom and Dave.

Climbing

Getting in some flight time

June 15, 2013 dillwat Leave a comment

15th June 2013

Ariege – Auzat
Secteur Principal

Tomio – 4 – Second
Roxanne – 5+ – Second
Dure Limite – 6b – Lead (dgg’d)
Chippie – 5+ – Second
Grimsel – 6a – Second
Bassine – 5+ – Lead
La Sabine – 5+ – Second

This was to be a final busy day climbing. We returned to Auzat, a favorite of ours over the trip, but this time to the main sector.

I had it in my mind that this would be the day I tried an 6b and so it turned out. After a getting warmed up on a couple of routes we ended up at the base of a fierce looking crack. With my confidence high I set about tackling the first section which went well until the traverse. This stopped me in my tracks and despite trying to force myself through it by shear will power I couldnt get it wired.

Chris stepped up and made the move that I had struggled on so badly only to come unglued at about 2/3’s height through the shear strenuousness of the route. However he got himself back on and finished the route for a great first 6b for the team.

Tom after initially struggling on the same move as I had, then proceeded to climb the route which left me in a real dilemma. I needed to lead it again… despite being a bit bollox’d. So once again I set off to tackle the crux moves, which laughed at me as I peeled off, level with the second bolt having run out of steam. The fall was exciting to say the least, with me finishing a few feet off the ground and Chris having to work hard to catch me. (Many thanks Chris).

Me after finally getting through the crux

By this time I was seeing red and I’d decided I was going to get this done if it was the last thing I did… which was a possibility if I kept taking falls like that. Reaching the same point as I had previously I moved a few feet higher so I could lock out on a good juggy hold and clip the second bolt to my relief. Yee haaa… at last. Mind you the effort of getting here meant I had little left for the remainder which I unashamedly dogged all the way to the top. Sometimes its the finishing that counts, not the way you do it. Elegant I was not!!!

The three remaining climbs of the day were all crackers. They are all on the same face and all given loads of stars and quite rightly. Each has its own character but all are challenging. Tom’s final lead on Sabine (probably the best of the three) was a job well done and probably his toughest lead of the trip.

So with everyone absolutely spent we returned to Tarascon for a final Leffe in the beer garden and a chat with two travellers heading for a party in Spain. Cool road trip.

I think we will be back to Ariege next year. There is so much climbing, and the area so beautiful it will be hard to resist. Next time it will be with Dave so that he too can experience the beer and cheese.

La Sabine, probably the best route on this section of cliff.

Climbing

Crash Test Chris

June 14, 2013 dillwat Leave a comment

14th June 2013

Baychon

Le Bon Sens – 6a – Lead
Mehare – 5+ Second
Pussicat – 6a – Lead
Oriane – 6a – Second
La Vista – 5+ – Lead

You would think that this trip just consisted of getting up and climbing. On the contrary, we had a number of routines which became part of this extended climbing trip.

Mornings were not early. We knew they should b,e but we couldnt roust ourselves that well and so a leisurely breakfast and ubiquitous cup of coffee sorted us out for the short but beautiful drive down to Tarascon. Aston is a really sleepy village and nothing seemed worth rushing for when you’re there. A quick stop at the patisserie for Pain aux raisin’s and then off to the crag. On this day we were in for a treat.

Baychon is probably my favorite venue in Ariege. Set away from the crowds in an idil valley above a small Hamlet it has a real feeling of remoteness and solitude. Getting there isnt a problem unless you have a Chris with you. Then you have to contend with reversing out of a tiny hamlet which you should never have gone to in the first place. Chris needs to read more than one line at a time. Then the clearly marked ‘DO NOT DRIVE INTO THE HAMLET’ may have been on his mind.

There is though very good parking just across the road which made things easier and once again we were the only ones at the crag.

Le Bon Sens is a very cruxy 6a. The climbing is straight forward until you reach the slightly overhanging thin corner crack. You need to tackle this with conviction in order to make the jugs higher up. Once through here there is a technical corner but its all in the one move really. Pussicat was a far better 6a. Much more challenging with a very thin move onto the upper slab where friction is your friend.

Pussicat - not quite. — Pussicat – not quite.

Chris took on the devious Mehare, which has a step up that took me ages to figure out. It’s completely off balance and at no point did I feel in control. Great fun! Oriane proved to be Chris’ undoing on this day.

Too many long and tiring days probably contributed but Chris came off a couple of times, both at very unexpected points and probably due to a lack of concentration. I think by this time we were all feeling the heat and after one final route called La Vista, which was confusing, we made tracks back for an early supper (after our traditional Leffe at the hotel of course).

The river kept rising cos of the meltwater. Kayakers dream

In the evening we set off on a walk through the woods up the valley. The river produces a wierd effect. The air surrounding it is freezing, but either side it was boiling. Just goes to show how cold the meltwater was. The woods turned out to be a great walk. By time we returned it was pitch black and very spooky.

Clearly this trail is an old shepherds trail, with now unused field systems either side. It gives an insight into times long gone in the area. All we needed was Bears and Wolves and strangely enough……………….

Early morning mist before the heat really set in.

Hot and Sunny climbing – you cant beat it.

Climbing

Cheesed Off…. Literally!

June 13, 2013 dillwat Leave a comment

13th June 2013

Calames
Sector Le Col and Presse Puree

Kecsecsa – 6a – Lead (partly dogged)
Le Goujon de Plus – 5 – Second
Lichen – 6a+ – Second

OK. Lets get this straight. When you go on a climbing trip where you’re burning calories by the trillion you should loose weight not gain it. However, if your continental diet consists mainly of Bread and rich French cheeses then this may not be the case.

Tarascon with Roche Ronde and Calames in the background

Our diet included masses of the said French cheese and lunches were to be savoured with fresh fruit and bread accompanied by Brie, Camenbert, Emmental and a hard cheese that I cant remember but which was lovely.

So having returned to England following the trip it was no suprise to learn that both Chris and Tom had managed to put weight on!!! It must have been a close call though given the amount of sweat and effort we put in over the duration. On this day we returned to Calames as storms were predicted for the afternoon and we wanted somewhere easy to get into. Strange then that we headed for the highest and furthest point away from the car park.

I had returned to try the 6a bolt on flake route called Kecsecsa. This proved to be my favorite route of the whole trip. Despite twisting my rope around a draw I found this one challenging but OK. A great overhang followed by amazing slab climbing in real exposure. Terrific.

Chris picked a hard 6a+ to cut his teeth on and despite early setbacks did brilliantly to get through and reach the top. He gave me a bit of catching practice but got through what was a bold section near the start (I never like that as you always think you might deck)

Toms lead at Le Colon Le Goujon de Plus was a strange one bending around a cave entrance and needing clever footwork. This one is a lot harder than it looks and when Tom found a Krab (he’s been hunting for free be’s) he thought his luck was in. Unfortunately it had been left there because the in situ malion was in bad repair. Better luck next time Tom.

The Griffon Vulture had disappeared later in the day to be replaced by ominous thunder clouds which duly did their thing scaring us to death. It’s no fun carying a sack of mettle gear in a lightning storm.

Joe, here's a roofing job for you! — Joe, here’s a roofing job for you!

The day was finished with Pizza in Tarascon at a Restaurant by the river where we watch the strange small dipper type birds dive into the fast flowing water. How they dont drown I dont know. Our cheese fest finally hit an all time high on this day as Chris and I had cheese Pizza and realised we’d OD’d. Maybe it was time to back off, but I doubt it.

OOhh Your tight german shorts izz so manly Ya

Climbing

Mountain Bells

June 12, 2013 dillwat Leave a comment

12th June 2013

Roche Ronde

Entre Chat – 5 , 5+ -Alt Lead
Cotton Club – 5+ – Second
Netoyage de Printemps – 5+ – Lead
Konslediz – 5+ – Second

This was slightly different from our last visit. Previously rain, this time bright sunshine and very hot. This remarkable outcrop was pretty quiet on this day, but I could image with the convenient parking it could get busy. Possibly the strenuous walk up to the crag might put a few off, that and the dodgy approach – one is polished and scary, the other steep and scary. Take your pick.

Roche Ronde is fairly vegetated, with detracts slightly from its routes and despite appearances is probably not as steep as some of the crags. But it has its charms, chief of which is the spectacular view down into the valley with the small nestled villages and the sound of church bells echoing up to our terrace. Its a venue to savour and relax at – except of course we were there to climb.

One of many villages nestled in the valley

Another couple were on the routes we had singled out so we started on a two pitcher which turned out to be a bit overgrown. A shame really becasue Entre Chat couldbe a good route but in this condition it is just hard work.

Entre Chat with the impressive Roche Ronde rising up behind

Chris got the best lead of the day on Entre Chat which is probably the pick of the 5’s at Roche Ronde. My lead on Nettoyage was similar as was Konslediz. What we hadnt realise until we started to leave was that there were a number of climbs hidden in the small rvine to the left of the main venue. These actually looked in better condition, but we will have to sve these for another time.

On our return to Tarascon we made the now regular stop for provisions at the supermarket which included the necessary 6 pack of Ice Creams. You cant get them in less so we pigged out and went for a beer in town. The river was continuing to rise, an indication of the increased snow melt. It made for some reflecting on whether the snow in the high mountains would have cleared quickly. In hindsight though I think we need to be more aware of condition so that our plans more reflect what is possible rather than what we wish we could do. That said, it would take a lot of the adventure and uncertainty out of travelling which for me is a big part of any trip.

Walking

The Ordesa Files

June 9, 2013 dillwat Leave a comment

9th to 11th June 2013

Ordesa National Park

Goriz Hut Route

With the weather having gone bad in Ariege we set off for sunny Spain. The GPS sent us on a strange Z shaped route which takes you across the Pyrenees through a long timed tunnel (Bielsa Tunnel near Araganuet). The traffic lights change every 10 minutes to let cars through from each side. Very impressive and our first experience of the high Pyrenees and snow… which Tom proceeded to walk on in his flaps.

It was great fun to be on the twisty roads and getting a change of scenary. Even a stop at a French MacDonalds didnt detract from the journey (free Wi Fi you see). As we dropped down the Spanish side, past flooded villages from hydroelectric projects (it’s the Spanish way – just drown the occupants) the temperatures started to rise a little, but there still seemed to be an alarmingly large amount of snow about.

Once into Spain proper, everything became crispy and the lush green forests turned to brown scorched mediterranean type scrub. We started to make the most of our air conned CashCow (I like these BTW – nice cars). This warmth was giving us a false sense of security as it happened for what was coming at Ordesa.

Torla is a stunning village, nestled in a valley leading up to the main gorge. With a church perched on a granite pillar it is striking. After some searching for a campsite which was open; we seemed to be about two or three weeks ahead of the season in both France and Spain, we had a chat with some locals at the outdoor shop. We should have guessed really by the amount of snow present on the gorge tops, but all the high routes at Ordesa were shut because of too much snow and avalanche risks brought on by the suddenly warming weather. Once again about a week too early.

Undaunted we spent the evening discussing our alternatives. The snow line was at around 1800-1900 metres, very low and they had had 100cm of snow during the preceding week on the tops. We wernt equipped for this so suddenly our plans for Pic Du Midi and Perdido went out the window. We settled on a recon walk the next day up the gorge to check conditions.

It was a good plan because in the end we exceeded our expectations and made The Goriz Hut which we had been led to believe was under a metre of snow. There was snow but not so bad we couldnt negotiate it. The walk turned out to be amazing.

The head of the canyon before you exit onto the high slopes

Ordesa is so beautiful. The river was in full flood because of melt water so the waterfalls really turned it on.

It was baking hot as well so a few tea breaks using the trangia made for a chilled but energising walk through ever cahnging scenary. On reaching the head of the valley we saw a couple descending from the higharea towards Goriz. ‘Whats the worst that could happen?’ echo’d around the team and we set off traversing high on the wall of the canyon and crossing snow fields as we passed through Marmot territory (they’re a lot bigger than you realise)

It was actually really hot despite the snow.

We got back to the car as it was getting dark and treated ourselves to a few beers in Torla that night at a bar tucked away in one of the may cobbled streets. We had a choice of more walks in the local area, although they would have to be low level, or heading of for some Spanish sport climbing. The latter one out and the next day we headed for Cavaliers.

This proved to be a dodgy choice actually as we were advised by the most helpful tourist assistant I’ve ever met in Vielha that Cavaliers was still covered in snow!

And what were we doing in Vielha anyway ????? Magellan in the front seat had navigated us over a mountain pass and 30 miles past our turning in true form. So the decision was made to return to Ariege where hopefully the weather had improved (it had). The drive back this time was truly spectacular. Twisty winding roads across the Col du Menthe and Col de Portet made for a real adventure and the car was put to the sword.

Our arrivalback at the campsite was greeted with deathly silence. It seemed to have shut again but we eventually roused our very laid back site warden and settled in for the duration. A great trip to Spain and next time maybe we’ll pend a lot more time there. Its worth a trip in its own right.

One of a number of snowfields we crossed.

Why its known as the Grand Canyon of Europe

One of many stunning waterfalls. Tom playing tourist

Melt water fueled the rivers in the canyon

Climbing

What a difference an hour makes

June 8, 2013 dillwat Leave a comment

8th June 2013

Roche Ronde and Calames

Interdit Aux Veoce – 5+ Lead
Zebulon – 5+ – Second (Chris Lead)
Kecsecsa – 6a – Lead (dnf rain)

Our first day of very iffy weather. We awoke to low cloud and very damp conditions. The condensation in the valley is horendous when the humidity is high as it was on this day. With our never ending optimism in full flow we headed for Roche Ronde.

From a distance Roche Ronde looks fairly insignificant nestled below the larger venue of Calames. As you draw near though the scale of this face become more apparent. Its a fairly long and tough walk up through the forest on slippery rounded stones. When you find the base of the crag orientation is not obvious. On this visit we went up the central gap which actually is a nasty approach and I rekon you should avoid this route. There is a more hidden approach which is a lot steeper but is a lot safer and not so polished. Keep your eyes open for a tell tale arrow point leftwards into the trees as you traverse below the lower face.

Unfortunately our luck ran out this time and steady drizzle KO’d any chance of climbing so we trudged out…. only for the sun to come out and transform the day. If we’d waited an hour we would have been OK.

Packing up in the car park below Roche Ronde

Instead we made our way to Calames and the Presse Puree sector. I kicked off on a tough 5+ called Interdit aux velos. Tucked away in the corner it is innocuous enough, but has a difficult transition from the slab to a rib. A good route to get started on.

Tom on the tricky part of Interdit aux velos, Calames

Chris’s route Zebulon was in the mould of a trad route, with some tough bridging to start with and a bold move around the bulging overlap. I’d had in mind the idea to try a 6a called Kekcecsa. This is unique in that it has a bolted on flake! The route though looked excellent and I was making good progress when a boom of thunder announced the arrival of a thunderstorm. The circling Griffon Vultures had long gone heading for shelter and we were forced to do the same fleeing off the crag with our rucksacks full of iron mongery.

The thought of being caught out on the crag in a lightning storm is frightening. Even the locals get off quickly when a storm approaches.

A hot meal always cheers you up when it rains. Chef Chris at work.

With a changeable weather settling in and an unsettled day behind u,s we had to make a decision on whether we stayed or went for Spain. I think there was only one choice really.