12th July 2013

Lower Sharpnose

Lunakhod – HVS 5a – Lead
The Smile – E1 5a – Lead

After checking the tides Tom and I had little hesitation in picking out Sharpnose as a destination. With no swell as well, we knew that for the majority of the day Sharpnose would OK. It was also a good excuse to check out a new destination and look at a couple of climbs I had wanted to do for a while.

Both Lunakhod and The Smile get 3 stars in the guide and equally they were two climbs that were realistic for us to attempt.

Lunakhod soars up the left side of the middle fin, following an easily identifiable line. Its a corner which just keeps on going. From a tricky start you get stuck into the climb proper with a couple more awkward sections following. It’s the last few metres which are the wildest though. The moves up through the overhang come at a point when your starting to feel the strain. Plenty of gear so it is more of a physical struggle than a mentle one. Look down though and you get a real taste of exposure. Tom clearly enjoyed it as much as I did but both of us felt the 42 metres of climbing.

The reams of tat at the top provide the abseil point.  5 carabiners and 5 slings are just about adequate given their condition. I let Tom test them out and when they didnt gice way figured it was safe for me to go. Ta Tom!

We had seen The Smile from above as we inadvertantly abbed off right above it. From above it looks overhanging although it is more of a bulging. We both found the start tricky, more so for Tom as he’s shorter than me. But once into the left trending groove you are on power all the time with only a few semi rests. It really is a stamina test and by time I arrived at the vertical crack I was feeling the pace.

This also holds the crux moves so it’s a case of get stuck into it asap and keep on going. I really enjoyed this even though I felt near to the end of my reserves. There is nothing like the feeling you get when you make it to easier ground and the sense of satisfaction. Tom remarked he preferred this route and I can see why. I’d give them both top marks though. Two classics.

Lunch sat above the fins just reminded us once again how lucky we are to live in the West Country. Sharpnose is pretty unique and awe inspiring. I’m sure we will return soon to take a look at some of the E2’s!!!