Armada – HS 4b – Lead Raven Face – V Diff – Second
Another damp outing to Dewerstone brought rewards which seemed unlikely on the drive in. The 25-30 mph winds were the main reason for picking the shelter of the woods and this proved a good call as we spent the day watching the clouds scud over the top of the valley.
The damp woods
It was a bit wetter than last time and the fact Id once again forgotten my climbing shoes meant choosing a climb took a bit of thought. In the end Tom and I opted for Armada, a HS which boasted a tough top chimney. I needed to practice chimneys and big boots meant it was a good opportunity.
Dave checking out P2 of Fly on the Wall
Dave and Chris set up for Fly on the Wall. By all accounts Dave found this one a proper challenge due to the quality of pro. As I remembered it the pro was OK, but the loose rock gives the impression of instability which messes with your mind.
or does one?
Not that my mental state was much better. I hate chimneys! and they hate me. So it was time to sort things out and Armada was my candidate to do battle with. The crux of Armada actually turned out to be on the first pitch with a committing move past a bulge. The sopping wet rock didnt help, especially as the key hold was dripping. Still, it made it exciting.
Ian just before the crux of Armada
The chimney proved to be less difficult, but required a complete absence of elegance in its negotiation. I used all parts of my body to thrutch up the narrow gap and bizarly actually enjoyed myself in doing so. I think with rock shoes and a bit of dry it would be a lot easier proposition, but beggars cant be choosers.
The narrow top crack of Armada
We all met up above FOTW and Dave led the V Diff Raven Face. A tricky rock over onto a slab is the main feature of this climb. Quite difficult for a V Diff imo, but after our expoits on the previous climbs it seemed OK.
Dave leading Raven Face
We managed to catch Tom before he could throw himself off the top of the crag, so it ended well. A casual stroll out through the now quiet and stunning woods capped a great day out and there was just enough time for everyone to take the piss out of me a little more for leaving my climbing shoes behind… again!
The damp woods
Dave about to set off on Fly on the Wall
Dave checking out P2 of Fly on the Wall
Dave traversing under the overhang on Fly on the Wall
Unlike Siobhan – HVS 4c – Lead Kernyk – HS 4b – Second Boysens Cracks – E2 5c – Lead (dnf)
Talk about the lull between storms. This was like climbing in the eye of the storm. Thursday was torrential, with full on gales and Saturday was a never ending downpour. Friday. Well Friday was dry and sunny as most Fridays have been this year. Its been very strange.
The highlight of the day was the pod of porpoise which roamed off the point and into the bay between Cribba Head and Logan Rock. The poor fisherman down below us didnt stand a chance. These critters really know how to catch fish and watching them ‘porpoise’ was wonderful.
Unlike Siobhan – The areteon the right of the chimney
In between this we got some top climbing in. I started on Unilke Siobhan an HVS which follows a set of overlaps up the arete on the left of the main face. Surprisingly I found this really enjoyable. I had to rely on the incredible grippy nature of the granite at Cribba (its very crystalline) as the route requires lots of smearing. Placing gear is tricky too, but its all there. Mind a fall into the gap might result in a few grazes.
OK. Now which way
Dave then got the chance to lead Kernyk. I remember from my own experience that its much harder than it first appears, especially in its upper reaches. Dave managed to contort himself into all the usual shapes the climb dictates, but as has been his forte over the past few months he climbed it in a contrlled and steady way.
Tom high on Kernyk
I dont think it will be long before he moves onto VS’s
Boysens Cracks
We finished on Boysens Cracks. I know I can lead this route, so why I f*#$k*d up so badly is beyond me. It was the crux move that undid me; I just didnt go for it and paid the price. I dont know why,. Pro’s good but my stamina was abit lacking. I’ll be back to do this and a number of the harder routes I’ve failed on recently. Time to get strong….
Gives an idea of how much Boysens Cracks leans out
Tom made a good fist of it making it to the top crack before tying his hands up in knots. A good route for a top rope and getting those fingers working.
Gives an idea of how much Boysens Cracks leans out
Dave on Boysens Cracks
Tom bridging up Kernyk. The only way.
Tom high on Kernyk
Ian beginning Boysens Cracks
Boysens Cracks
Kernyk
Dave moving up Kernyk
The crux of Kernyk
OK. Now which way
Dave contorting
jUST BEFORE THE AIRY MOVE OUT ONTO THE ARETE
Awkward gear placements on US
Nearing the massive chockstone on Unlike Siobhan
The crux on Boysens Cracks
Unlike Siobhan – The areteon the right of the chimney
Fly on the Wall – HS 4b – Lead Needle Arete – V Diff – Second
Toms firm belief that he would could to a bad end on his lead was founded in the good old Magpie superstition. Not that I’m immune from it; I too wave/salute Magpie’s when I see them, but Tom extended this a bit further than I normally do.
For all the fact a single Magpie signifies bad luck, it confined itself to our drive home where we ended up stuck in two road blockages due to accidents which made for a late day. The day itself was great, with The Dewerstone glowing gold in its autumn colours and the upper buttresses drying quickly making for good climbing.
View across to Fly on the Wall P2
I hadnt even heard of Fly on the Wall, but as we arrived at Raven Buttress it seemed the obvious route to pick. The first pitch is fine with a straight forward crack to negotiate, but for me its the second pitch which makes the route. Exposed with positive holds and reasonable pro it traverses under an overhang to a pumpy pull up into a finishing groove. Great fun!
Pitch 1 Needle Arete
Then it was Tom’s turn with all his superstitious baggage in tow. Needle Arete is a superb V Diff. We started on pitch two because of the damp, but this culminates in a strenuous pull up through a niche to a tree belay.
Damn Magpies!!
The next pitch initially looks unlikely at the grade. A right to left rising crack cuts across a steep and quite blank looking wall. For Tom this was the crux. However with good pro in, he cruised to the arete and the exposed finishing moves. Tom 1 – Magpie 0.
Tom completes the exposed top move on Needle Arete
As Fridays seem to be the best day for weather in 2012 we shouldnt have been suprised it held off right up to the point we left. Strange that. For such a wet year, Friday has proved as reliable as a clock for turning out dry. Lets hope it continues.
Tom completes the exposed top move on Needle Arete
This is becoming a regular outing, one way or another. On this occasion Dave, Tom, Chris and Tony were along for the trip, with a cameo from Bart and his mate Adam. And each year brings something a little different. Last year it was torrential rain, with the paths flowing like rivers; the year before heavy snow and this year probably somewhere in the middle. Only once have the conditions been spot on for climbing, so maybe its time to move the trip to earlier in the year.
Contemplating the North Ridge
In usual fashion we arrived in the dark to set up on a very wet site. My tent decided it had had enough and became wetter on the inside than outside. For a Macpac I’m a bit disappointed. They are regarded as bombproof but this is anything but, with the bucket sheet losing its hydrostatic ability completely. Still, Macpac have offered to replace it, so it’s not all bad.
Getting stuck in
The two days ended up being centred around walking and scrambling. Not a bad thing, although I’d set my heart on climbing. The hills had a fair amount of snow on them and the decision to do the North ridge turned out to be a good one. Although a bit icy, it was great fun and some sections needed a bit of tenacity to get past slippy and damp slabs and holds. As usual the views from the ridge were stunning.
Success. Close to the summit.
The next day proved a bit of a dilemma. I wanted to check out Criag yr Ysfa with a view to doing one of the V Diffs there, but in the end the cold beat us and we set off on the Carnedd ridge walk finishing at Pen yr Ole Wen.
Craig yr Ysfa but a bit cold for 7 pitches
With strong winds, snow/hail storms and generally inhospitable conditions it was fantastic. Regulating your temperature is so difficult in these conditions. One minute hot, then freezing – I must have taken my jacket off a dozen times during the day.
The weather closes in
Having done this walk, I would like to do a bit more in snow and ice. Maybe some of the scrambles as long as I have crampons.
Descent off Pen yr ole wen
What I have discovered though is that cold is not my favorite condition, as I know from my surfing. Maybe its time for some winter sun destinations instead!
Magnificent Triffan
Contemplating the North Ridge
Getting stuck in
Success. Close to the summit.
Craig yr Ysfa but a bit cold for 7 pitches
The weather closes in
Stunning views back along the ridge on Carnedd llewelyn
Moaning Minnie – V Diff – Lead Strake – HS 4b – Top Rope Coiled Stick – HVS 5a – Lead Eternitys Few – VS 5a – Second
Stood on the gearing up platform shortly after our arrival it was hard to imagine we would be doing anything but heading for the Logan Rock Inn for a pint. Contrary to the forecast, there was drizzle and it was fairly persistant.
The traverse in.
I’ve never been one for giving up and so we decided to make our way over to the base of the lower tier climbs. This is a good warm up in its own right and in the wet with a bit of swell added, there was a bit of spice in the traverse.
Ian starts out on Moaning Minnie.
Erring on the side of caution Dave and I picked a Diff and V Diff respectively. Strangely, by time we got to the top the rain had stopped and the granite was drying fast. The rain didnt detract from Moaning Minnies qualities. Its a V Diff with good variety and it has a sting in the middle in the form of a narrow, skewed ramp. Climbing this with style is a major challenge as everything slopes the wrong way…. tricky.
Joe 'discovering' the narrow off balance ramp on Moaning Minnie
Dave meanwhile was making his way up Kellys Eye, the distinctive channel which bisects the main climbing area. So we all met at the middle tier platform. This gave Tom, Chris, Joe and Dave a chance to worm their way up Sloe Slab, the very different route with a crawl to finish. Having already done this I top rope Strake. I almost wish I hadnt. Its a bit grim, very overgrown and dirty. Without all the muck it might be a good route, but in this condition its best avoided.
The difficult start to Sloe Slab
Now Coiled Stick is very different. It has its moments with regard to dirt and moss, particularly on the middle crack, but overall its a great route. I cant deny that the middle section spooked me a bit. The pro would probably have been OK if the crack wasnt full of soil and weeds. Trying my best not to just rip everything out, I managed to eke out a few poor placements, but at no time did I think ‘That’s a bomber’. But the climbing is not hard at this point, just balancey.
The tricky middle crack
The top crack is a different proposition. Here the pro is good but the climbing much tougher as power starts to come into play. The damp conditions didnt help, but to be fair it was more a case of pushing on and getting established in the crack. Once I’d done this things became more manageable. Really pleased I did this one.
Ian on the tough top crack of Coiled Stick
Meanwhile Chris was on Porcupine. Given VS it is soft at the grade, but this doesnt detract from the quality of the climb. A great route which Dave and Tom thoroughly enjoyed as well.
Chris on the top section of Porcupine
We had time for another route (just) so Dave set off on the brilliant Iron Bells while Joe tackled the hard start on Eternitys Few. I knew Dave was in for a treat, but Joe’s route turned out to be good as well. The crux is a bold move about 6-7 metres up, probably why it is given 5a. It takes some working out and the slippy moss doesnt inspire you with confidence. A good lead by Joe.
Dave on Iron Bells.
Having to make our way back to the gearing up ledge, we ended up scattering across the crag. probably not a good idea as I spied Dave inching his way up what looked like hard territory. Joe needed a bit of help by Dave and Tom as he got stuck half way up a chimney. Maybe next time we’ll stick together. Chris and I traversed back on the lower slabs, back roping a dodgey wet decent crack and following the traverse back. main thing is we all arrived back safe just as we lost the light and trudged back to Penberth.
If you’d said the day would turn out this well at the start I wouldnt have believed you. Another stolen moment on Cornish granite.
Ian on the tough top crack of Coiled Stick
Dave on Iron Bells.
The traverse in.
Ian starts out on Moaning Minnie.
Dave on Kellys Eye
Joe ‘discovering’ the narrow off balance ramp on Moaning Minnie
Dave and Joe on the bottom tier
Joe completes Moaning Minnie
The difficult start to Sloe Slab
Chris on Sloe Slab
Chris contemplating the squeeze
Chris disappears into the ‘hole’ on Sloe Slab
The belay above Sloe Slab
Chris on the top section of Porcupine
The tricky middle crack
Chris high on Porcupine as Ian gets nervous on Coiled Stick
Chudleigh Rocks – South Face Inkerman Groove – VS 4c – Lead
Of the four people Tony and I spoke to at Chudleigh all mentioned the ‘polish’. I think this probably gave a good indication of what we could expect from the venue. Having said that all said how good the climbing was so there must be a balance somewhere.
Chudleigh Rocks isnt hard to find, but its nicely tucked away in the woods and feels quite isolated despite its proximity to the village. The climbs are fairly straight forward to identify, especially as Oesophagus, a destinctive crack E1 is one of the first you come across. The other climbers recommeded a couple of routes but the one that looked in best condition on what was a damp day was Inkerman Groove.
It was a good choice. The start was hideous, covering the same ground as the inappropriately named ‘Wogs’ and very wet and slippery. This was almost the crux for me, but I’ve never liked climbing in the wet. Once I reached the traverse everything became much more enjoyable. Its quite technical and exposed but just brilliant climbing. The groove continues the adventure capping off a very memorable climb.
I checked the comments in UKC later when I got home, and many consider this to be the best limestone VS in the country. As its the only one I’ve led I cant comment except to say I’d recommend it to anyone.
Clearly loads of climbing to be had
In a bid to avoid getting washed out on another climb (we’d ridden our luck a lot on this day) we decamped and headed up to Hound Tor for a mooch. This is a startling place, very moody in the late evening sun and packed full of good climbing. In the pub on our return Tony and I agreed we needed to return with the full crew for a days bouldering and to do the great looking suspension flake.
The suspension flake buttress
Speaking of the pub. What a starnge place. No power (you can hear the generator), full of youngsters (I mean twenty somethings, not just peole who are younger than me) and completely isolated in the middle of the moor. I wish I could remember its name….
Iron Bells – HS 4b – Lead Sloe Slab – V Diff – Lead Porcupine – VS 4c – Lead
Parking is a bit of a problem here although on this day we were lucky enough to be able to park on the campsite. Otherwise its a short walk from Penberth. I doubt that there is a lot in it really.
Our gearing up ledge after a thorny arrival
Pete and I rolled up not really knowing what to expect. I know that when you look at the crag it seems broken and disjointed, but after a couple of attempts we successfully managed to access the base of the cliffs via a very thorny and overgrown path. The next task was to get across to the main climbing area which is done by a series of traverses, a couple of which are quite airy, so you may want to rope up.
The bottom of Iron Bells
We started on Iron Bells, a climb very reminiscent of Anvil Chorus’s second pitch. In fact the crack is thinner, but its not as steep. However it’s a great pitch and loads of fun, especially the overhang which is taken directly on really positive holds. The granite feels grippy, probably a reflection of how little climbing this venue has seen over the years.
Eying up the squeeze on Sloe Slab
Pete and I were then faced with the next problem.To get back down to the lower tier involved some serious jungle bashing which we didnt fancy, so instead we decided to just keep going up. A great choice in fact as Sloe Slab turned out to be loads of fun. One for the rest of the group to have a go at and see if anyone can make the exit through the gap look elegant. Me and Pete failed big time.
Pete demonstrates the slug move
With the weather taking a turn for the worse (the sun had now disappeared and we were frozen) we launched for the top. Some poor route reading by me meant we did a sort of mixed route part of which at least was Porcupine, a VS. I had intended to tackle to enticing thin crack on the left of the upper slab, which would have been HVS but cold hands and impending hypothermia made me decide to just get up there as fast as I could.
Pete on the upper tier (Porcupine?)
So all in all a great venue. Each tier has a number of options all in the V Diff to HVS range and it should be a good return next week when we come back mob handed with a stay on Trevervan camp site thrown in.
The Armchair – HVS 5a – Lead Doorpost – HS 4b – Second
Pete, bless his cotton socks , had to be on his toe’s as I took to the air on Armchair. A silly mistake really. I missed the wet patch on what is a fairly polished route anyway. The result was unexpected flight time.
Ian on The Armchair
The start of Armchair is a real mental exercise. Ten years ago maybe the edges were a bit sharper and positive, but on this day everything seemed rounded and smooth. As it happened I negotiated the harder stuff and then fell off once things eased off. This though doesnt detract from the fact The Armchair is a top climb. It just get better and better the higher you go. Lots of tough exposed moves up the ramp add up to an exhilerating experience. One of my favorites.
Chris on the crux of P1 Paragon
Chris and Joe meanwhile tackled Zig Zag and Dave and Tom Doorpost. Because Pete and I took a little longer ( I had to strip some gear) by time we had finished lunch Chris and Joe has started off on Paragon. Shame they didnt take the guidebook, because they got lost on pitch three, missing the offwidth and ending up on Nameless. A lesson learned really in making sure a guide book is to hand on multi pitch routes. Still it means Chris and Joe have a target for the next time they go to Bosi.
Tom leading P1 Doorpost
I finished on Doorpost with Tom and Dave. Tom got his first experience of a Hard Severe on the lead. The big difference for him was placing gear on what is a tough traverse. Not sure Bosi had even heard of some of the language he used but Tom got there in the end for his first HS tick. Dave set off on P2. His confidence is brimming at the moment and it showed as he negotiated the crux move through the twin cracks on what must be one of the most exposed sections of bosi. Doorpost is remarkable in the exposure it delivers at the grade. Lots of adrenaline then.
The view down P2 Doorpost
So next time back at Bosi its going to be a full ascent of Paragon. Bring it on!
Right Hand Trinity – Severe 4b – Lead April Crack – HS 4b – Lead Hargreaves Original Route – VS 4c – Lead
I’d never been to Stanage. I’d read lots about it, but didnt really know what to expect. That and the almost religous way people talk about grit made it all the more anticipated.
The view out from Stanage
Finding the campsite proved to be a challenge. After my third circuit of Hathersage and the surrounding area I stumbled across it, but the wait was worth it as its a beautiful place nestled in the woods and a sheltered valley. At £7 a night its a bargain.
Barty's lonely tent at North Lees campsite
Greated by rain the signs were a bit ominous for the following day so Bart and I scouted the area and got our bearings with the climbing. We picked the April crack area which had a number of top 50’s at reasonable grades. It turned out to be a good idea.
The April Crack area - Hargreaves Original on the left, April Crack centre and Right Hand Trinity on the right (obviously)
Right Hand Trinity was a good starting point. The crux gave me a chance to see why people regard grit as so grippy. Its amazing how much friction you can generate on it and this proved useful when I got to Hargreaves Original. Whether the loose chockstone was broken already or if I did it didnt stop it suprising me when I tried to pull on it.
Bart on Hargreaves Original
All three climbs are great and for a first adventure on grit I am completely sold. Easy access, short technical routes and good camping facilities make this an obvious choice for a short climbing trip.
Bart finding out he hadnt charged up his camera. Doh!!!
The one factor which I was not used to is the crowds, but to be fair this just made the day more sociable. I still prefer the solitude of Penwith but Stanage has its merits.
Top of the lane leading to North Lees campsite
Barty’s lonely tent at North Lees campsite
The April Crack area – Hargreaves Original on the left, April Crack centre and Right Hand Trinity on the right (obviously)
Bart on Hargreaves Original
Bart finishing Right Hand Trinity
Bart about to start Right Hand Trinity
The view out from Stanage
Christmas Crack, the one we missed
Bart finding out he hadnt charged up his camera. Doh!!!
Friends – VS 5a – Lead Immaculate Groove – E1 5b – Second
A really foggy morning greeted us from our tents at Treen. Treen has a great campsite and was a good choice of venue for the BMC meet. Shame then that most of the BMC was at Treverven Farm campsite on the other side of the valley! It appears Treen hadnt been warned so we ended up on the wrong site.
Even with an inauspicious start the day turned out to be a cracker. The previous evening in the Logan Rock I’d arranged with Nick to meet at Pordenack which would give me a chance to have another go at Friends, the VS that had bested me previously.
Hot. The weather that is... not me!
With everything heating up nicely Tony and Joe set up for the tricky Nothing Much. I set off hoping that things would be easier second time around. They werent. But Friends is such a good climb. Once you are past the overhang the pressure is on to get through it. There are no good rests so by time I reached the atmospheric top out I was fairly pumped, but well chuffed to have made it clean this time.
Tony on the final section of Nothing Much
For Tony, it was straight in at the deep end on Nothing Much but he made a good fist of it, making it clean and getting Joe’s pro out, including the bit he fell on doing the difficult traverse. I think after three HVS’s in a row Joe was pretty knackered.
Me and Nick after some strenuous climbing on Immaculate Groove
Nick had his eye on an E1 on the point across the bay called Carn Boel. Immaculate Groove turned out to be just that. A brilliant technical slab leads to a brutal overhang which needs to be dealt with through jamming. Nick made the slab look straight forward, but found the crack tough on the overhang. Fair play though, he made it even if it cost a little blood. I didnt fair so well, slipping on the slab and then just running out of energy and strength when I needed it most.
So a fair trade. One nemisis conquered in Friends and another created in Immaculate Groove. I will return…
The upper section of Carn Boel, called Terrace Cliff has some meandering routes. From the bottom they look poor, but actually they offer good climbing. I’ve done Kari before which turned out to be a tough V Diff. Tom led Bitter End, another challenging climb which goes up through the heart of the cliff.
Pordenack Point from Carn Boel
And so ended another great weekend. Lots of good routes and good company.
Pordenack Point from Carn Boel
Hot. The weather that is… not me!
Tony on the top section of Nothing Much
The final section of Nothing Much
Me and Nick after some strenuous climbing on Immaculate Groove
Why it never rains on a Friday!
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