Tag Archives: 4a

David Blane… ‘eat your heart out’

June 3, 2016 dillwat Leave a comment

3rd June 2016

Screda Point

Needle Direct – VS 4b – Lead
Seabreeze – HS 4a – Second
Tourist Trap – E1 5b – Lead (dnf) T/R

Neither Nick or I have any concept of how long it actually takes to get to the Culm. We were both 45 minutes late and arrived within a few minutes of each other. Doh! Obviously tuned in on the same wavelength.

The drive up to Hartland is lovely and the lanes leading through the village and out to the quay were decked in purple rhododendron and vivid green trees showing their new leaves. Quite spectacular. Of course you then drop down to the quay itself which has its own splendor, this time with stark rock outcrops and prehistoric jagged runnals heading out to the sea.

Screda Point sits to the South and is only a short walk away. We decided to ab in so that our gear wasnt at the bottom (a good decision that one) and head straight out to the outer fin where an HS and VS lurked. Both turned out to be great routes. The Needle Direct was a well protected and tricky route up the centre of a slab. Fantastic climbing with a real out there feel because of the isolation of the fin. Nick’s HS also had a character of its own. Following the arete and then breaking out onto the slab it was a cool peer for the VS.

Casting a shadow on the great moves of Needle Direct

The tide was chasing all the way though and we left as the waves started surging up the runnals toward the main face. Just enough time for me to bag an E1 in order to get to the grassy saddle… or not???

The start of the E1 was fine but I soon found myself high up with just a micro and a difficult move. The combination was enough to stop me in my tracks and with the water lapping at Nicks feet we opted for a me to downclimb and both of us to shimmy up the ab rope on prussics. So it was a lower off to fetch the gear and then a climb out.

Of course I couldnt help but try to impress Nick with my magic tricks. David Blane makes planes disappear into nothingness. I make quickdraws and runners disappear into the sea in a blink of an eye. Impressive huh? The trick is to switch off your brain, use a bit of thuggery on a stuck nut and not bother attaching it to your rope. That way it cartwheels into the ocean and its possible to just stand there and look really stupid…

When will I learn. So with Nick safely up the route as well, we called it a day fairly early and so ended a brilliant session and a good return to ‘business as usual’ for me and Nick. Lets hope for loads more days like that in the near future.

Nick starting up Tourist trap just above the tide mark

Climbing

On Belay! Just don’t fall off…..

April 17, 2016 dillwat Leave a comment

17th April 2016

Kellan Head
Hidden Amphitheatre

Gambit – Severe 4a – Alt lead

Its a shout that doesnt instil massive confidence. Mind you I should have realised this was no normal belay stance Dave was on when a football sized chunk of rock went whistling by and plummeted into the sea!

This trip turned into a great adventure. We had set off to climb a couple of fairly hard routes in the E1 range but they were still a bit out of condition. Seepage meant the opening moves were a bit dicey (no pro and wet foot placements) so we left them for next week hopefully.

Instead we went exploring. The guidebook suggests an abseil into the Hidden Amphitheatre, but there also looked to be a traverse around the point. Green and slimey in some places, but not where we climbed, it was possible to get around the nose of the zawn/bay and onto the main slab.

Its great fun, especially when you dont have a clue whats coming. As it turned out it wa a spectacular area of rock. High and a bit intimidating, but with plenty of obvious lines. It took us a while to get out bearings and sort out the routes. Still not sure about some but we did find a massive VS which looks epic. Next time though, as we were running out of light, so we settled on the Severe called Gambit to climb out.

Probably not as straight forward as the guidebook suggests. It’s described as ‘slight’ which in comparison to the other routes it probably is. But ti shouldnt be underestimated in the context of the rock, which in places is loose and unreliable.

For the most part it follows good rock and has a couple of good sections. The start of pitch two which Dave led was great, but again not easy. Well worth Severe 4a/b and possibly higher in the severity grade because the pro is there, but will it hold?

The final hanging slab gives good exposure and lots of dodgey rock. Dave’s belay was more likely to caused a cliff collapse than hold me in a fall. Still you have to work with what you have. I think I might run a rope down from the fence posts if I know we will be topping out here next time. Safer and easier.

We finished with a stunning setting sun and the whole area glowing gold as the lichen caught the suns rays. Truly amazing, but a little cold as I only had a wind stopper. So back to the car park in what must be one of cornwalls most scenic places to climb.

Tricky moves on the lower groove of Gambit

Climbing

Jet Wash

July 3, 2015 dillwat Leave a comment

3rd July 2015

Penberth Cove

Nicks Niche – Severe – 4a Second

Horney – VS 4c – Second

Penberth was of course the original venue at which Iwas introduced to climbing by Bart. It therefore holds very fond memories for me and returning there is never a chore.

A new member of our group came along. For Harrison it was his first experience of outdoor climbing and my thought was that Penberth provided a good venue where we could tackle a few reasonably graded routes while at the same time introducing him to the safety routines and climbing protocols that he’ll need when we go to the more serious venues like Bosi or Chair Ladder (no I wouldnt… not yet anyway).

So during the course of the day we visited some Penberth classics such as Nicks Niche and The Hornet, as well as spending some time in Area 5 which needs a low tide. It was good practice for Chris and I as well as we went though some of the basics, which we always need refreshers on.

The rising tide, which almost caught us on Nicks Niche ( a wave actually spat just past me soaking the whole climb but miraculaously missing me!!) eventually pushed us to the Hornet where Chris and Harrison on his first attempt, made short work of of what I had always found a difficult climb. Must have been me then…

Harrison on the face left of Nicks Niche

Meanwhile Joe and Tom had mooched over to Porthguarnon to something very hard (around E3 I believe), but did return for a quick run on Groucho.

There are two E1’s here at Penberth which I would like to try, so I might pay a mornings vist on the way through on one of our outings and try and get on them.

Climbing

Everyone needs a boost

November 28, 2014 dillwat Leave a comment

28th November 2014

Sennen

Corner Crack – Severe 4b – Second
Monday Face – VS 4c – Lead

It was a bit of a disappointment really. The forecast had been suggesting all week that Friday would be dry and sunny, but although the sun did its best, the faces of the crags were sopping. It didnt stop the coast from shining in all its glory, but as regards climbing it would be a frustrating day.

Our first stop was Pentire. I had it in my mind that this would dry quickly on a day like this, but alas it was not the case. Both Rip Tide gulley and the main point were unclimbable so it was on to Sennen for what was a fall back location.

This continued the mood of the day with all the faces being in poor condition. When the rock is wet it does not inspire you to climb hard and I started to get a feeling that maybe we should pack up and go.

Tom however got us started with Corner Climb, probably the first route I ever climbed back with Bart and Tony. It sandbagged me then, but this time I had the better of it taking a slight deviation to finish on the bulge.

Tom and I mumbled about going to the pub, but it was Dave who had more determination on this day, eventually cajolling me into taking on another route. To be fair he was out to test his ankle and one route was not enough.

Monday face is a good route to do when its damp. Juggy and confidence promoting (despite the less than bombproof pro) it was a good finish to the day and set us all in a good mood for the return journey.

Equally inspiring was the amazing view towards longships, with a golden sun and battleship sea. Just amazing.

Climbing

Vegetables are good for you. Sometimes…

May 2, 2014 dillwat Leave a comment

2nd May 2014

Pen Olver – The Lizeard

Lying Eyes – Severe 4a – Lead
The Womb Tomb – Severe 4a – Second
The Giant Carrot – E1 5b – Lead
Sesame Street – V Diff (Ha-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha………!! ) – Second

Before we even got to Pen Olver I knew I would end up preoccupied with The Giant Carrot. I’d checked it out on our previous visit but didnt have the nerve to do it. This time I thought I’d better give it closer attention.

Pen Olver was looking its best. Calm seas. light winds and a cool temperature. Typical spring day really. Chris and I paired up, with Tom, Dave and Pete in the triumvate. I suspect Pete felt that Dave and Tom might give him an easier time of it so he could rest his damaged leg. I think maybe he was wrong here as Dave set off on the brilliant but tricky ‘The Peoples Queen’. Pete who has been climbing superbly recently had time to squeeze in an ascent of Lying Eyes, my first lead of the day as well. No rest for the …..

Lying Eyes is short but OK. A good warm up route and it gets you to the top of the pinnacle which is always a treat. Looking across at Dave fighting his way up TPQ ,I think Chris and I had the easier option but Dave despatched yet another VS to add to his growing list.

Chris then subjected himself to a bit of ‘trollism’ as he negotiated the fantastic ‘ The Womb Tomb’. Anyone who goes to Pen Olver should do this climb. It is excellent. The final exposed traverse just caps off what is a truly different experience form most climbs. And the famous cave painting is still there. Or is it a fake??

So onto my main event. Or would it be? From below I thought I had this one sussed.But once on it, it becomes a different beast. Not sure I agree that there are small wires to be had on the traverse. I placed two in what appeared to be good slots, only for one of them to shatter when Chris removed it. A crucial cam in the face settled my nerves and I was away. It was scary, but scary good. A few difficult moves later I was sucking in air on the arete and feeling decidedly sick. Way too much adrenaline. But what a buzz. I was soooo pleased to get this one, especially after making a couple of false starts.

The adrenaline wasnt finished for the day though. Chris was scratting around for a lead wanting something around HS but not finding anything. So he settled for a really good looking line called Sesame Street. Given V Diff in the book. V Diff My Arse!! I always trot out the saying that if it looks hard from the ground, it is hard.

Chris found this out, battling up the route and getting a real shock at its difficulty. Looks like he got his VS, because I rekon this was the more appropriate grade. It made for a fitting end to what was a great day out. Tom spent a lot of the afternoon racking up leads on the Main Face with Pete. Looks like Pete might get his 60 after all.

Climbing

Stone’d

April 4, 2014 dillwat Leave a comment

4th April 2014

Boscawen / Union Star Cove

Luke Skywalker – Severe 4a – Lead
Stone – VS 4c – Lead

The theory was that being early in the year we wouldnt get ourselves completely skagged trying to get into Tregiffian. That was the theory anyway. But it turned out Boscawen was the real villan in this piece and Alex who had joined us found this out when he became trapped in amoungst a dense patch of gorse and brambles.

I’ve been to Boscawen twice before but could I remember the descent route? We ended up going way too left and having to track through some viscous thorn and gorse before finally finding the arch. This always marked the way in to me so we dropped our bags here and abbed into the main face.

Boscawen clearly isnt getting much traffic at the moment. The cracks are very vegetated and placing pro is a bit of a mare. Luke Skywalker is strange for a Severe. A straight forward easy first two thirds followed by a very committing final section which feels very thin.

Mind you, the hardest part for me was finding my way back up. I managed to get myself stuck in a corner and had to aid my way out. Not sure that was the correct way???

The walk to Tregiffian was stunning at this time of year. Its as if the cliff has burst into life shoing off its colours and plantlife. At times you could have thought it was planned but its just nature making the most of things.

Like a garden but actually the coast path.

Then it was on to tregiffian where we discovered my tide predictions were also lacking in judgement. With a bit of swell running and a pushing tide the main face was no longer an option. Dave and Tom set up for Exit which is out of reach of the tide for a while.

Alex and I went scouting around Union Star Cove and came across a real gem of a climb. It took some finding requiring a short abseil and some scrambling but Stone is a really step and exciting VS. Good pro but some tough moves and quite strenuous with only one real rest spot.

It made for a great climb and Alex who hasnt been for a while did really well cleaning this one. After my first selfie it was pack up for the long hard walk back out to Boskenna Cross. There are two more routes on the Stone face that I will return to. They both look brilliant and this spot is a real find.

Climbing

Dave does descending

January 27, 2014 dillwat Leave a comment

17th January 2014

Trewarvas – West Crag

Mouseproof – S 4a – Lead

A late start meant that Pete and I only had time for one route and Mouseproof proved to be a worthwhile undertaking.

For a Severe it is quite bold. Pro is tricky to find and a couple of the balancy moves require you to gain height before placements become available. I really liked it and enjoyed the exposure of the final moves.

Meanwhile Dave, Chris and Tom were on Avalanche having a go at the direct variation. This is an entirely different proposition to the regular route. Much thinner in the top section and much more difficult. Dave could testify to this as he put in some air time during a valiant attempt to clean the final few moves. Pete managed to sail through Avalanche making the top moves look fairly tame. They’re not!

A short day really, but hopefully just a taster for what is to come.

Dave about to start the top moves of Avalanche Direct

Dave on the lower part of Avalanche Direct

Climbing

Going it alone

November 28, 2013 dillwat Leave a comment

28th November 2013

Sennen

No Number – VS 5a – Lead
Monday Face – VS 4c – Second
Overmarked – HS 4a – Lead
Sinners Route – Diff – Solo
Juniors Route – Diff – Solo
Seniors Route – Diff – Solo

Damp conditions alwyts temper how you approach a days climbing. Despite a favourable forecaste Sennen was slow to dry on this day and as a result we throttled back on our grades.

Having said that, No Number, my opening route prooved more than a challenge for the conditions. Holds full of water, moist cracks (oooh errr) and unreliable foot placements made it full on. The rising run of flakes is slightly overhanging and therefore fairly strenuous until you reach the base of the upper cracks. Great climbing, but the twin crack finish wasnt on for this day. They were running with water so I detoured onto No Name for a much easier but spectacular finish.

Monday face has all the holds but needs a steady head. Pro is tricky to come by and the strenous positions make it akward to place. Chris enjoyed this one. An ideal route for the conditions. Meanwhile Dave and Tom were on SkrewCrack, which again was probably worth another grade given the conditions. A good lead by Dave who’s consolidating his grades nicely.

Chris on No Number and Dave on Skrewcrack

Overmarked is a weird route. Its basically a couple of moves through an overhang, but is really powerful for a short period. Get your body shape wrong and its a lot more difficult as Chris and I both found.

Unusually for the two of us, Chris and I ended the day with a bit of soloing. Only on the diffs in the Church Window area but it certainly adds a buit of spice to your climbing. What would ordinarily seem simple suddenly becomes a major issue. That said, I think it is good for your climbing as you end up concentrating on just the climbing without all the paraphanalia that normally accompanies leading.

Dolphins! Guaranteed to put a smile on your face.

Very refreshing and the sight of Dolphins just makes you feel good to be alive.

Climbing

25%

October 17, 2013 dillwat Leave a comment

17th October 2014

Low Man/HayTor

Raven Gulley – Severe 4a – Alt Lead
Outward Bound – HVS 4C – Lead (P1 Only)

We left Newquay with great ambition for the day ahead. Chris and I had targeted a series of HVS and E1’s at Haytor and Low Man which we intended to bag. Unfortunately mother nature had very different ideas about what we were going to accomplish and it wasnt going to be 100%.

It all started so well. Raven Gulley was a really cool climb to start on and get warmed up, but unfortunately by time we had finished it the wind was up and storm clouds gathering. Outward Bound was an obvious choice for number two. Well protected but grunty. On this day though it gave Chris a good hiding. The main factor is the that once commited into the overhang there is no let up. Its all power. On this occasion Chris didnt find the thank god jug and he’ll have to wait for next time to get it. I spent a while trying to free and awkward nut, but having done this felt I should have a crack. It would be churlish not to….

Maybe I should have checked what I’d been doing with the ropes because having lauched cavalier into the overhang I was stopped dead by twisted ropes so it was back down and start agian from the bottom. This time I managed it just in time for the heavens to open and kill the day.

170 mile round trip for a Severe. It was worth it!

Climbing

It’s behind you!!!!

July 5, 2013 dillwat Leave a comment

5th July 2013

Carn Kenidjack

Seadreams Cliff and The Main Face

Seadreams – HS 4b – Lead
Great Central – Severe 4a – Lead
The Shield – E1 5a – Lead

The first time anyone goes to Carn Kenidjack it has the same wow effect on them. A near vertical wall which at first glance looks featureless is an intimidating sight. For four of the team on this day it was their first time and I’m sure it didnt disappoint.

We started on the Seadreams Cliff thinking we had plenty of tide and that there was little swell. Wrong on both counts I’m afraid. Plenty of swell which kept washing up the ramp below the routes and threatening to engulf our feet. Chris and I went haring off up a route each thinking that we’d only get one in, only to find we had time for a second and had only succeeded in cocking up the rotating leads. Oh well, it turned out well for me which is the important thing. 🙂

A killer belay..... at least it will be when that rock lands on Chris! — A killer belay….. at least it will be when that rock lands on Chris!

Both routes on the Seadreams cliff were good if a bit short in stature. We all got a crack at both pitches. Seadreams is the better of the two, but with a stunning view across to Cape Cornwall both seemed brilliant on this day. The pushing tide was threatening to swamp someone on the ramp. Chris as the last man standing confidently watched a surge miss him on the cliff side without realising that it nearly got him from behind although he was totally oblivious to this.

The it was time for the main event! We down climbed into Kenidjack. Its steep and is intimidating at first, but secure enough if you are confident. As you walk into the amphitheatre you suddenly realise how magnificent the main face is. A shear wall that seems blank at first but is full of holds and cracks.

First view of the main face for the crew.

Chris and Dave set up for Saxon Direct. This is probably my favorite climb of all time. It has everything. It seems unlikely at the grade but as it unfolds you realise there are holds a plenty. Gear can be hard to find unless you think carefully. It’s there, but it takes some finding.

Dave at the horizontal crack before the tough top wall of Saxon Direct

The same could be said for the Shield. The bottom pitch has spaced gear but its good. The climbing is pretty good too and no pushover. Tom and Pete seemed to really enjoy this pitch and we all ended up at a very cosy belay. From here the character of the climb changes. No longer good gear and larger holds. Now it becomes small crimpy holds and foot placements and poor gear for about 10 metres.

A very relieved me after getting through the bold section of P2 The Shield

Once you get to the groove of Thane there is something and you can breathe a sigh of relief. Up to that point the motto is ‘dont fall off’. We all made it though and a very satisfied team collected at the gearing up ‘hole’ to pat each other on the back a recollect at what was an amazing day.