Trewarvas | The Magik Rock

25th September 2023

Trewarvas

Joy – Severe 4a – Lead
Side Step – Hard Severe 4b – Lead

Many years ago Joy was one of the first climbs Bart ever put me on. Obviously seconding it or it could have been a top rope, I had an aweful struggle on it. Unable to unlock how to get through the big flake and onto the ledge.

So on this occasion I figured that with all the added experience I now have, I would manage it fine. Uhhmmm…..

Nope, still an epic. This time I missed the traverse onto the ledge completely, carrying on into the VS version and pumping myself out, loosing my confidence and then down climbing back to below the flake. I needed a stiff word with myself to have another go, this time getting it right and then wondering how I made such a gaff of the low crux.

For Dave, it seemed a similar experience. I think its one of those routes where if you get the sequence wrong initially you end up in all kinds of difficulty.

Still a much better effort on Side Step helped to restore confidence. Always a good route, its all about the exposure as you come out of the nice cosy chimney onto the face for the final crux moves on the headwall.

All in all it was a fine day out and so good to be out with Dave again getting some great routes done.

17th January 2014

Trewarvas – West Crag

Mouseproof – S 4a – Lead

A late start meant that Pete and I only had time for one route and Mouseproof proved to be a worthwhile undertaking.

For a Severe it is quite bold. Pro is tricky to find and a couple of the balancy moves require you to gain height before placements become available. I really liked it and enjoyed the exposure of the final moves.

Meanwhile Dave, Chris and Tom were on Avalanche having a go at the direct variation. This is an entirely different proposition to the regular route. Much thinner in the top section and much more difficult. Dave could testify to this as he put in some air time during a valiant attempt to clean the final few moves. Pete managed to sail through Avalanche making the top moves look fairly tame. They’re not!