Tag Archives: Bosigran

A chorus of approval

May 13, 2012 dillwat Leave a comment

13th May 2012

Bosigran

Anvil Chorus – VS 4c – Alt Lead
Alison Rib – Diff – Second

It was so bloody cold when we arrived. Dark and windy and not inviting at all. Bosigran had seemed the best shout for this day but it didnt look that way at first.

Bosigran_May12-8 — Belay view from P3 Anvil Chorus

Pete had brought along his new rack and I was giving Anvil Chorus the once over. With the corner of Ac looking like it might be the most sheltered spot we went for this first. I had always wanted to lead the third corner pitch ever since seconding it with Nick so this gave me the opportunity.

Bosigran_May12-10 — Pete on the first pitch of Anvil Chorus

It’s easy to forget how good a climb is until you get back on it. AC is not just about one pitch, although the 3rd is the most spectacular. All four have something to offer. Pitch one, two short slabs, can be tricky but it got me nicely warmed up.

Pitch two passes an overhang with a very airy move, requiring Chris to step out onto a poorly protected arete and a final push onto a large slab. By this point the sun was out and Bosi had transformed into acres of warm granite taking the chill off the day. So the corner pitch was done in sunshine, making the crack a lot more amenable. It’s strenuous in places but well protected; towards the top you need to push on to a brilliant rest point. A fantastic traverse to an atmospheric mantelshelf follows.

Bosigran_May12-7 — Pete on the third pitch of Anvil Chorus.

For me this was the crux, especially when my foot slipped and I almost whipped off. It made for a rather panic stricken udge onto the ledge. A shame really because 30 minutes later I did the same move again after retrieving a nut, but this time with more style.

Bosigran_May12-6 — Chilled walk back after AC

The final pitch was made harder for Chris because he completely ignored the obvious left hand crack. As a result he used a hard layback move off the arete to get established, making it a much more scary venture altogether.

After our exertions on AC it was Pete’s turn. With a new rope, new lead rack and me and Chris badgering him, he set off for his first lead up Alison Rib. It’s a great climb to make a first ascent on. Pete got good gear in and looked like he thoroughly enjoyed himself.

Bosigran_May12-4 — Pete on his first lead on Alison Rib

He even managed to find the top after some guidance from Chris.

Bosigran_May12-1 — I wonder if this will hold. Oh well its only Ian....

So no longer a lead virgin, Pete, Chris and I headed home. It’s amazing how 9 hours just flies by when you’re having so much fun.

I wonder if this will hold. Oh well its only Ian….

Pete on Alison Rib, placing gear for the first time.

Pete on the third pitch of Anvil Chorus.

Climbing

Politically incorrect climbing

January 16, 2012 dillwat Leave a comment

16th January 2012

Bosigran
Gollywog’s Cakewalk – HS 4b – Lead
Oread – V Diff – Lead

I love Bosi, the atmosphere and the beauty of the place, so what better venue to get onto when the sun pops out and you are sheltered from a cold wind. For Tom it was his first outing there so I wanted to start off on something reasonable.

Bosigran_Jan12-001 — Gearing up ledge below Gollywog's Cakewalk

The last time I tried to lead GC, I ended up way off route. Admittedly it was when I had first started leading and the first pitch scared the pants off me. So I went left and ended up on Red Slab(ish). This time it felt a lot more comfortable, although the traverse across the slab is still fairly run out. A high runner in the left crack helps out a lot and the slab itself is a great bit of climbing.

Following this the climb fragments a bit following a black ‘quartzy’ type vein to the top. Still some tricky climbing on weird rock, but too much greenery in amoungst it for my liking. Climbing shoes and grass dont mix!.

Oread is another of those climbs I’ve passed loads of times but never thought about climbing. I think its easy to get drawn into the main cliff and the big routes. On this occasion it made abundant sense to give it a go as it was on the way out and with time getting shorter it was nearer to the car.

Bosigran_Jan12-006 — Me leading Oread first pitch

Bosigran_Jan12-014 — Tom finishing off Oread in the sunshine

The climbing is better than I thought, adequate gear and a number of variations possible. I tried to mix it up a bit and picked a line which saw me at the top of Alison’s Rib. Tom made short work of it to cap off a good day out. I am thinking that this spring could mean a shot at Suicide Wall. It’s about time I had a go at one of Bosi’s E’s

Gearing up ledge below Gollywog’s Cakewalk

Climbing

The wait is over

August 5, 2011 dillwat Leave a comment

30th July 2011
Bosigran
Little Brown Jug – VS 5a – Lead
Grendel – E2 5c – Second (dnf)

This was to be an iconic day for me. Little Brown Jug has been watching me for years now, waiting for me to climb it. Sometimes you get into a rut – LBJ was like this. I desperately wanted to do it, but every time I went I found an excuse not to. Anyway, Nick put paid to that. His advice of “Get on it before it gets too busy” drove me to climb it.

It was worth the wait. Chris tackled an alternative start which made a lot more sense than the traditional route. We headed up the first pitch of Doorway and Chris who’s getting right back into his leading made short work of it.

The top pitch of LBJ is just remarkable. It’s challenging from the begiining. The move off the belay ledge stopped me in my tracks and took some figuring out. It pays to be bolder here and move out from the inviting corner. The holds then start to arrive.

The crux is just that. The crux. The peg is gone now (I was at the BMC meeting when someone brought the remnants of it along!) but there is protection there if you look for it. It pays to be a little taller for this but you find it by gradually moving up. Delicate and balancy moves get you through this section which is amazing. Heart in mouth stuff but its what climbing is all about and I loved it.

The final section is a crank for the top. Wild but with good holds and is an exhilerating end to one of the best climbs I’ve ever done. Chris, Nick and I were full of smiles at the end testimony to why LBJ is so iconic.

Now Grendell…… This was up a few levels in difficulty. It didnt help that it was baking hot at this point leading to sweaty hands and greasey foot placements. (Thats the excuses out the way early). Nick made abrilliant effort on this. The bottom crack is tough and the niche which imo is the crux of the route was very difficult for me and Chris. There is a point where the holds run out and you have to rely very much on foot friction. In my case this wasnt quite enough and I slid off twice. Very frustrating as I am sure I can do this.

That said, Nick worked hard for this which is an indication to me of its difficulty. A small fall on the crux did not take away what was a brilliant lead.

So now it was a choice between an HVS or a jump in the sea to cool off at Halladrine Cove. Of course the sea won and quite rightly on this day. It was take your breath away entries into the water but after that I got the light burning sensation you get on your skin from swimming in a cool sea. Amazing feeling and a stunning way to end the day.

I think by this time Guiness and Mutley had just about had enough having been dragged all around Bosigran and all they were thinking about was curling up and sleep. We hover headed for the Gurnards Head for chill down pint and to discuss the days highlights of which there were many.

Climbing

Its a puzzle?

August 5, 2011 dillwat Leave a comment

26th July 2011
Bosigran – Raven Wall Area
Zig Zag – VS 4c – Lead

Taking the afternoon off work makes climbing feel so much better. Its as though you’ve managed to cheat your way into some fun whilst everyone else is still beavering away. It was a bonus that it was really hot. In fact sweatingly hot (not sure that’s a real word).

Pete had not done a tricky multi pitch climb and I’d always wanted to do Zig Zag so we went for it straight away. Zig Zag is a strang climb. A bit disjointed but the three pitches are all good in their own way.

The bottom optional pitch is steep, with good holds and pro. It gets the adrenaline pumping immediately and has a challenging top out.. Then its across the Raven wall ledge to a rising ramp that leads to a short black veined wall. This is tricky and strenuous and leads to a brilliant narrow ledge with amazing views over the bay and towards Commando Ridge. Pete’s usual fear of ledges kicked in and as my leading piece of gear fell out he wasnt inspired with confidence.

The third pitch is the cracker though. You leave the ledge making exposed moves up and around the overhang. The holds are there but need a bit of lateral thinking. A short section that reminds me a little bit of Pegasus at Chair Ladder goes up to the ‘puzzle’. Be bold on this and it all comes together for a final push onto the finishing ramp.

Its not the best VS at Bosi but it is fun and takes you up through the central wall which is spectacular.

We picked up our free gear which must be a new introduction at Bosigran – by all accounts when you top out someone leaves a pile of slings and clippers for you to take as a reward.

We did search for the true owners but to no avail, so Pete is now the lucky recipient of two brand new slings! What a great way to finish the day and the sunset just topped it off perfectly.

Climbing

Rise of the super hero…

May 14, 2011 dillwat Leave a comment

13th May 2011

Bosigran

Andrew – Severe 4a – Lead
Trapese – HVS 5a – Lead

I wasnt sure Bosi was the right place to climb, because of the stiff westerley but as it happened we were fine climbing in the recessed area around Andrew. Also having sunshine always cheers things up and for Dave who had never been to Bosi it brought out all of Bosi’s magical scenery.

I realised I wasnt climbing with an ordinary mortal when Dave posed for pre climb shots. Clearly no one would pose like this unless they had super powers! Then I remembered how he hobbled just as much as I did on our walk on Bodmin and realised this was just bravado. Anyway a couple of good pitches at Bosi would wipe the smile off his face (or put a bigger one on it)

I hadnt climbed Andrew in a long while and it was my first multi pitch route so what better place to introduce Dave to multi pitch. I had also forgotten how good a climb it is. A bit meandering but each pitch brings something new: an arete followed by a delicate traverse, then an exposed balancy ‘shuffle’ and finally (and the best bit) a chimney which calls for some working out. Its not difficult if you climb it right. But thats the why so many peole find it hard, as I did the first time. Dave made a briliant job of it working out which way to face which is the key.

Popping up at the top we met a Swiss girl walking the Penwith coast, the only other person we met all day. Its not often you get Bosi to yourself.

Climb two was a different proposition. Trapese is a great climb, if only a little short. Well protected, you have to make sure you dont place your gear where you want your hands and feet to go. The Crux for me was the move up into the vertical crack. It took me ages to work it out and by then I’d thoroughly pumped my arms. I left just enough to pull through to grateful resting postion near the top. A large Hex set sideways will protect the top crack, just… or a large CAM which I didnt have. Still a great climb.

I wondered how Dave would find the climb as he hasnt climbed a lot recently, but he went through it with no problems. Its only when you are at the top that you realsie how overhanging the corner is. Another HVS tick for me which I am really pleased with.

Little Brown Jug had to wait as the wind was a bit fierce on the main face, so thats the next target when I return. The end of another fantastic days climbing and a pat on the back for having this on our doorstep.

Climbing

Rise of the super hero…

May 13, 2011 dillwat Leave a comment

13th May 2011

Bosigran

Andrew – Severe 4a – Lead
Trapese – HVS 5a – Lead

Popping up at the top we met a Swiss girl walking the Penwith coast, the only other person we met all day. Its not often you get Bosi to yourself.

Climbing

The good, the bad and the inspirational

February 28, 2010 dillwat Leave a comment

27th February 2010
Bosigran

Doorway (Pitch 1) – Severe 4a – Second
Doorpost (Pitch 2ish) – HS 4b – Lead
Anvil Chorus – VS 4c – Second

Heavy rain the night before and some intermitant showers made this an unlikely classic day, but you never know how things will turn out. A quick decision at Tesco’s in Penzance meant we were en route to Bosi. The sun kept peeking out between dark rain clouds but the forecast was good. This was the first time Joe and I had climbed with Nick so I was hoping for a good day and so it turned out.

Having said that we arrived at the base of the crag to see everything soaked by a short shower. Surrounded by rainbows we decided on a Doorway/Doorpost hybrid to warm up, which turned out to be great fun. The doorway pitch proved testing in the damp conditions, but it is amazing how fast the cliffs dry. After Nicks lead (I wimped out in the wet) I set out on the last two thirds of Doorposts second pitch. Brilliant exposure on great holds – love it – leads you out onto one of Bosi’s great pitches. I seconded this one last time here so it was good to have a go on the lead.

Nick had mentioned he wanted to have a go at Anvil Chorus so after lunch it was back onto another classic climb.

With the light becoming ever more spectacular as dark clouds formed up around us, Joe set out on the first pitch (linking the two bottom pitches into one. On the second part of this is a dark niche passed on the right by a bold move up onto the arete. Joe made a brilliant job of this, clearly enjoying himself up there.

The third pitch of AC is the classic pitch, although I think the climb as a whole has great variety. This pitch, follows a vertical double crack and then breaks right in a traverse to a final mantelshelf. The fact I found it difficult as a seconder makes me understand that it must be a difficult lead. Removing the gear needs good strength and stamina, so placing it must be hard as well. Having said that, it must be one of the all time great pitches of Bosi, exposed and technical. There are foot placements that allow you to use the faces as well, but ultimately laybacking is the approach.

When Nick set off, it was almost a ‘Little Big Horn’ situation with the weather. We were surrounded by black clouds with squalls off the coast and a haze of rain over towards Pendeen lighthouse. If I’m honest I thought we would make it, but Nicks call was perfect (for me and him). Unfortunately Joe ended up climbing the pitch in a rain shower which soaked everything. Powerful arms and determination saw him to the top finishing one of the best climbs I’ve ever done.

You feel like you’ve achieved something when you sneek in ahead of the weather like this. Rain either side of out session, but in between great climbing and great fun.

The rest of the phots can be seen here.

We are so lucky to live down here.

Climbing

The First Step

October 18, 2009 dillwat Leave a comment

Bosigran Ridge
2nd October 2009

Commando Ridge – V Diff – Second

Yet another day out on the ridge for me and Chris and as usual lots of fun. This time it was Andy’s turn to join us for an adventure and I dont think he was diappointed.

It was fairly cool and with a reasonably strong wing you couldnt hang around too long. Andy claims I had told him ‘it was just a steep walk’ but I dont remember that. Still the descent sorted things out. Dropping down to the base of the ridge re enforces how long a route it is and for someone on there first time it adds a bit of seriousness to the whole day.

But the real awakener is when you step off the bottom ledge onto the face in a narrow zawn. Suddenly it is full on exposure, with waves booming, gulls screaching and the wind blowing. A complete assault on the senses. This is what makes it so good, because the climbing is very reasonable with nothing too tough, but it is all the collateral issues that catch people out. Andy was no exception and was no doubt pumped full of adrenaline by time he reached the top of the first pitch. I’m sure I heard the words “I’m going to get you for this Ridds” more than once.

We climbed as a leader and two seconders which was slower but worked well. We followed the main ridge climbing the knife edges which adds to the feeling of exposure but makes it more fun. Andy dealt with everything really well, obviously a natural. Including Chris’s hanging belay on the last pitch. Chris led the whole route which made things easier and clearly he enjoyed it.
We finished on the Armchair, the 4a section right at the end. Always a shock because it is harder than the rest of the route. Chris made short work of it though and so we finished on a high as usual.

The ridge never fails to deliver.

The Magik Rock

Tag Archives: Bosigran

A chorus of approval

Politically incorrect climbing

The wait is over

Its a puzzle?

Rise of the super hero…

Rise of the super hero…

The good, the bad and the inspirational

The First Step

Why it never rains on a Friday!