14th July 2014

Doyden Point

Caprice – VS 4c – Second
Lotus – E1 5b – Lead

Ever since I seconded Lotus with Nick 4 yrs ago I have wanted to return. One to lead the route and second to reclimb what is one of the most memeorable climbing experiences I’ve had.

 

Dave had a hankering to get on Caprice as well so we rocked up on the dull grey day to contemplate the awful abseil in. Its a choice between descending in amoungst loose rock or dropping over an edge into nothingness. Given that we didnt have the ab rope  this meant using my old 10mm dynamic so it was nice and bouncey.

Doyden is both spectacular and scary/intimidating. Fortunately the surf was small, but there was a good wind going and the drizzle as we descended didnt bode well. However as the day progressed so did the weather; into a bright sunny day.

Dave thoroughly enjoyed Caprice, a tricky VS which traverses the lower face on mainly good rock. It has its moments though and can be intimidating in its middle section which needs a steady head. A good spike runner settles things for a while but the scoop in the centre of the face only provides mediocre pro.

Lotus is probably the single best E1 I’ve led along with Rock Idol. It can be broken down into two sections. The initial crack which is pumpy and tough going. Move fast or burn out. Followed by a traverse across really expose ‘out there’ territory. Both are amazing but the move onto the sloping shelf are particularly memorable. Just amazing.

With the tide pushing and the weather closing in Dave and I checked out Kellan Head which is well worth a visit, especially with this being such a dry year. One for our weekday evenings.