22nd January 2011

Cuckoo Rock and Coombeshead Tor
Cracked Boulder Traverse V2 5C – dnf

Sometimes days have a special light which makes everything seem that much sharper and more colourful. This was one of those days. Dartmoor demonstrating just how beautiful it can be. The light gave the illusion of warmth, but part of the reason Nick and I were bouldering this day was the cold.

It turned out to be the perfect choice. Coombeshead is an area I have never climbed in and not somewhere I’d even heard of.  So to come upon and small outcrop of perfectly positioned boulders was a suprise. The first area we climbed in was slightly removed from the main track to Cuckoo Rock. The view back towards Burrator Resevoir was outstanding though and the bouldering excellent.

Bouldering is not something I’ve done a lot of and when I first attempted a fairly high but exposed face I found it intimidating. It’s strange how your mind plays games with you. What would be a straight forward move when protected by a rope suddenly becomes a major endevour. The first face we climbed on was just like this. However two or three attempts later and my nerves calmed down and I found myself enjoying things more and more.

We worked a number of problems here and then moved on to a larger single boulder. This had a steep sloping face and a wicked arete. With my mind buzzing around protecting my knee for sking I didnt make a particularly full blooded attempt at either. However Nick despatched both in style. A number of other climbers (yes we wer’nt aloneat this point) had a crack at the arete but Nick was the only one to send it on that day. Cap and feather spring to mind!

Our final location was Cuckoo Rock itself.  I made a much better fist of attempting the traverse here on Cracked Boulder. With a little more finger strength I think I would have done it. However its one for me to return to and try again. It consists of a series of moves following a horizontal crack. Each is tough, but as an accumulation they gradually wear you down. Really enjoyable though.

Finishing off on the Tor  meant we caught the final amazing light on the moor. It turned out to be a good call and I want to return soon.