Tag Archives: Dave

REBORN!

18th May 2013

Pen Olver – (The Lizard)

Songs from a Gentle Man – VS 4c – Lead 
The Peoples Queen – VS 4c – Lead
Dolphin Surprise – HS 4b – Lead
Songs from a Broken Heart – VS 4c – Lead
The Womb Tomb – Severe – Second

Despite our round about route to The Lizard via St Erth (caused by our usual indecision)  this turned out to be a good choice. 2013 is going to be the year of the never ending winter. Lots of sun on this day, but accompanied by a cold North Westerly which we were fortunate to be sheltered from.

Gearing up.
Gearing up.

We managed quite a few climbs on this day. With all the routes being single pitch and access very easy we were up and down all day. Dave and I kicked off on a cracker called Songs from a Gentle Man, a route which follows an exposed arete. It looks bold at first but there’s gear where you need it. The rock is fragile in places, but you dont need to haul on it. Use your feet well and it feels secure. I thought it was great, one of the best at this venue.

The arete of Songs from a Gentle Man
The arete of Songs from a Gentle Man

Meanwhile Tom was leading the tricky Vumba, which has some good moves in its final section. Dave set off on Peoples Queen, which is hard VS. The difficulties are short lived, but the main groove pushes you out and if you get your shape wrong its tough.

Pete exiting the difficult groove of Peoples Queen.
Pete exiting the difficult groove of Peoples Queen.

Pen Olver_May13 014

My attempt on Dolphin Surprise was delayed whilst I tried to work out the opening moves. Considering this was graded HS 4b it was the hardest move I did all day. It’s a real pumpy pull up to the first ledge using a less than perfect hold. Once past this the rest of the climb is straight forward, but its a shock to the system.

The view from the start of Womb Tomb. Tom about to head off.
The view from the start of Womb Tomb. Tom about to head off.

The four of us left the best till last. The Womb Tomb is brilliant. You get to the start through a narrow gash in the rock which brings you into a dark almost enclosed chimney which widens as it rises. Climb this on surprisingly grippy rock until you break out into the sunrise with a wide bridging move.

The bold move out of the dark chimney.
The bold move out of the dark chimney.

A bold step across lets you exit onto the seaward side of the pinnacle on the right (facing landwards). A climb that is guaranteed to put a smile on your face.

Stars in our eyes

6th May 2013

Pentire Point

Twilight – HS 4b – Second
Our Stars, Our Sky – VS 4c – Second

I wasnt sure that I would make this session, as it had been a hectic weekend, but with the sun out and a calm windless evening in prospect, it was too good to resist.

 

Chris arriving at the ramp after Pitch 1 OSOS
Chris arriving at the ramp after Pitch 1 OSOS

As it happened I arrived at just the right time. Dave had led Twilight and I grabbed a rope and seconded up after him. It’s a good climb too with a good move up into the crack/niche. Just the right antidote to get us all looking for more.

Given the conditions I couldnt help thinking that OSOS would be a good bet. The problem was getting four of us across the traverse was going to take time, but the sun would last.

Chris and Tom checking out the traverse... "what across there!"
Chris and Tom checking out the traverse… “what across there!”

After a guarantee of adventure to the others we set off to find the not so obvious abseil. With a good sized swell washing up the runnel, traversing into the base was also exciting. Came within a few inches of catching me out.

Out there...
Out there…

On this occasion the bottom pitch was a lot drier and was a good climb. The move around the nose requires a bit of thought, but to be honest it’s all about pitch 2 which Dave led. Probably a step up in the whole exposure/technical difficulty area for him but he seemed to breeze through it. There is a runout after the initial start for about 12 ft or so which adds spice, but the pro is so bomber and the drop so steep that it is a safe VS. Having said that its not an easy one and you need to factor in the exposure and feeling of being ‘out there’ the the route radiates.

Relief to have made it before the dark sets in.
Relief to have made it before the dark sets in.

Chris and Tom paired up as a second team and followed us across, meaning we finished in the gloom, but with a beautiful sky as the back drop. Not many other places I would rather have been on a day like this.

Indian Spring

30th April 2013

Carn Gowla
Indian Buttress

Touch the Earth – VS 4b – Lead

The first evening session of 2013 saw us explore a new buttress at Carn Gowla. Indian Buttress is the furthest south of the major Gowla venues, but offers some great climbing.

Finding your bearings is a touch difficult  though as we discovered. We abbed in down the obvious V groove in the west face but the descriptions in the guide are not easy to follow. It refers to a sea level ledge but to be fair the main ledge is well above sea level.

 

Joe on an ominous Touch the Earth
Joe on an ominous Touch the Earth

Still once we did establish things the climbs proved worthwhile (at least for me as I am a Gowla apologist unlike my compadre’s). I find the climbing here enthralling. Yes the rock can be suspect (like biscuit or razorblades depending what bit your on) and the pro barely adequate at times; it’s sharp, forbidding and exposed and belays are a nightmare; most climbs involve abbing in and the sea slamming into the cliffs offers a further dimension. For me this adds up to excitement and of all the venues we climb at, Gowla is the most adventurous. Clearly my colleagues dont see it that way as the evening was punctuated with curses and threats to never return.

Plenty of holds but how solid are they?
Plenty of holds but how solid are they?

Touch the Earth is deceptive. From below it is innocuous, but once you step out onto the face it brims with exposure and the holds are positive and solid. The finale is a steep slab where pro becomes less obvious but holds get better. Not sure it is VS; the lack of pro in the upper section may be why this grade is proposed, but Joeand I agreed it is well worth the two stars it gets in the guide.

Swirling seas below Red Cloud
Swirling seas below Red Cloud

Meanwhile Chris led Red Cloud a severe following an obvious crack to the right of the decent slab. This looked ood but I was advised is very sharp. Tom managed to break a few foot placements so maybe the grade will get harder the more it is climbed. I intend to try this one the next time out.

I now have my eye on some routes on the Sewerage Wall area, but it looks like I may have to rely on Pete for company on my next visit unless I want a mutiny.

All hail breaks loose!

Chair Ladder

26th April 2013

Red Wall – Severe 4b – Alt Lead
Bishops Rib – E1 5b – Alt Lead
Porthgwarra Chimney – Severe 4a – Lead

A welcome return to Chair Ladder was the order of the day. A first for Tom and Dave, and the first time for Joe and me since we tackled South Face Direct.

Of course Chair Ladder at this time of year can be problematic cos of the gulls and fulmars nesting. But as long as you pick the right routes you are OK. Which was why Joe and I went for Red Wall which turned out to be a bird toilet.

Joe using bird poo for holds! It really stinks.
Joe using bird poo for holds! It really stinks.

Good climbing is marred by a disgusting stench and holds covered in poo. Our fault really, because we knew the climbs either side were notorious for this. It would be good to come back and try it again in the Autumn maybe.

The red wall. Steep but with good holds
The red wall. Steep but with good holds

Dave and Tom meanwhile were on Terriers Tooth a must when you first go to Chair Ladder. Not the hardest climb but one which takes some thought both ascending and descending. In fact the descent can be more dramatic than the climb if you get it wrong.

Dramatic climbing on the final pitch of Terriers Tooth. Dave leading.
Dramatic climbing on the final pitch of Terriers Tooth. Dave leading.

Dave and Tom were on the top pitch when Joe and I returned so we shot off to  have a go on Bishops Rib. This had been a long time ambition for me. I never really had the confidence but on this day I was ready and set off on the delicate first pitch. Small foot placements and crimps need a steady lead. Once at the overhang there is plenty of pro and I moved as fast as I could through it. Luckily it all came together nicely and next minute I was at the belay ledge having completed one of the best pitches I’ve ever done.

Happy Ian after the amazing P1 of Bishops Rib
Happy Ian after the amazing P1 of Bishops Rib

Joe got P2 which is equally as good and very steep. Tricky moves to a break at an overhang lead into a final crack which has huge holds and huge exposure in equal amounts. For both of us this was a benchmark and a great tick on what is one of Cornwalls classic E1’s. Pat on the back all round then.

The move up to the left leading crack on the brilliant P2 of Bishops Rib
The move up to the left leading crack on the brilliant P2 of Bishops Rib

With the tide pushing we moved into the more sheltered Porthgwarra home of a number of good climbs. The hail which accompanied Daves finish to Shawangunk was a highlight as he suffered plenty of banter just as he was taking on the difficult crux of the VS variation. Tom and I got on Porthgwarra Chimney which I think is a sandbag at Severe. But on UKC this doesnt seem to be reflected in the comments. Pro is sparce in the early part of the chimney but it improves although the climbing remains tricky throughout. A really good climb actually, but more towards HS 4b in my opinion.

Dave and Tom with Terriers Tooth behind them
Dave and Tom with Terriers Tooth behind them

A very tired group headed home with some memorable climbing in their wake.

 

Dont forget your vitamin supplements

Chudleigh Rocks

19th April 2013

Great Western – VS 5a – Alt Lead
The Slot – HVS 5a – Lead
Sarcophagus – VS 4b – Alt Lead

At last we have the first proper summer day. Chudleigh delivered on the sunshine and the fun and gave our wintery white pasty bodies a treat of Vitamin D and a boost of energy.

My House??
My House??

After a number of alternative locations had been considered we chose Chudleigh and as it turned out it was the right place to be. Sometimes Chudleigh suffers from seepage, but the rain had kept off the limestone for a few days and it was in perfect condition.

Nick and I started off on Great Western, a VS which weaves its way up the most southerly face. Its brilliant and Nick was considerate enough to let me link pitches 2 & 3 together so I got to tackle the testing overhang on P3. P1 is no push over though. A delicate traverse up to the belay which is capped off by a tricky mantle which Nick cruised through.

Nick after P1 on Great Western
Nick after P1 on Great Western

I was not quite so smooth on the overhang. Dithering over a micro which I eventually backed up by clipping the peg (should’ve done that in the first place). Its a great move though and once I got going it was fine.

The line of Great Western
The line of Great Western

Meanwhile Tom and Pete were working their way up the glassy Barn Owl Crack which I gather is not so enjoyable. However  they made up for it with ascents of Salome and the inappropriately named Wogs, both of which were very good. Considering it was their first time on Limestone, they both seemed to take to it well. Limestone is very different from Granite and Chudleigh acts the additional dimention of ‘polish’ which can make even the easiest climb seem treacherous.

Dave on the exposed top pitch of Never on a Sunday
Dave on the exposed top pitch of Never on a Sunday

Dave and Chris started on an HS called Never on a Sunday. This takes a striking line up the face with the final pitch being very photogenic. By all accounts the exposure on this pitch is equally dramatic. And then of course Inkerman Groove, a must. Both Chris and Dave were raving by the end; quite understandably because it is an outstanding climb with one of the most memorable traverses you’ll find.

Top pitch of Never on a Sunday a tough HS
Top pitch of Never on a Sunday a tough HS

For me, climb 2 was The Slot. Nicks smile should have given away what the Slot would deliver. My smile was firmly absent whilst I tried to work out how to move up into ‘the slot’. Having got there things didnt get easier. The main crack is seriously hard work, but the higher you go the less strenuous it becomes. I was really pleased to get this one as it was a tough.

The best though was saved till last. Sarcophagus is a fantastic journey up a corner with truly three dimensional climbing. According to all that you read it is a nightmare of polish but this is only part of the story. Yes the opening moves are tense and Nick had to take care with pro and the moves over very polished foot placements. But once past this you get so absorbed in the climbing through grooves and overhangs that both of us agreed you become oblivious to any wear. I thought it was engrossing and in the end over too quickly. Even the top pitch (Nick ran the bottom two together which made a lot of sense) finishes off the climb nicely leaving lts of smiles.

A comfy seat on Sarcophagus
A comfy seat on Sarcophagus

A pint of local ale on the way back topped off a great day out although probably we would have been wiser to drink water not alcohol. But where’s the fun in that!

 

What a difference a day makes…

Bosigran

12th April 2013

Flat Top – HS 4b – Lead
Crazy Man Michael – VS 4c – Second
Little Brown Jug (Variation Start P1) – HVS/VS 5a? – Lead
Thin Wall Special(P2) – E1 5b/5a – Lead
Trapeze – HVS 5a – Second

I challenge you to read the title and not hum the tune in your head (or I’m a bit abi normal) I’m sat here looking out the window at drizzle, whereas yesterday at Bosi we were treated to Sunshine and a glorious day.

It was a strange day actually for me. Five climbs in my logbook, but in reality it was three. This was on account of a mix and match approach to our routes. Having walked away from Sinistra which looked more like a waterfall, we started on Flat Top, a really nice HS with some good moves getting past the overhang to the corner.

Me on Flat Top

As it happened overhangs played quite a part on this day. Joe’s lead on pitch two was Crazy Man Michael which starts with a … you’ve guessed it… a overhang. A lot tougher than Flat Top though. You never feel in balance and its strenuous. Having cleared this though the climbing continues up the exposed arete at a much more amenable level. It is well worth doing.

Joe about to set off on the tough opening moves of Crazy Man Michael
Joe high on CMM

Meanwhile the rest of the crew (Tom, Dave, Pete, Chris and Nick who made the long journey down from the wilds of Dartmoor) were on their own routes. Chris and Nick on the by all accounts very good Venusberg and the others on the classic Andrew. A climb I have fond memories of as it was my first multi pitch route with Bart. The step out from the ledge onto the slab is always tense because you never quite feel settled. A good lead from Dave on this one. Venusberg is definitely on my list for next time out.

Pete moving onto the delicate traverse on P2 Andrew

Having taken a closer look at Visions of Johanna, discretion finally got the better part of valour and I opted for a try on Little Brown Jug’s variation start in order to get to P2 of Thin Wall Special. Originally we had planned this for a threesome, but it made sense for Nick and Chris to get on a route instead of hanging around so they went off to do the brilliant Paragon.

LBJ P1

The overhang start (there it is again) seemed OK to me, but the next move is very tin if you continue on a direct line. A bridging move right opens up the good holds higher up and then the climbing is fun right up to the belay ledge of Doorway/Thin Wall Special. Joe kindly deferred this one to me as I had wanted to lead TWS and the top pitch looked wild.

It didnt disappoint. The corner of Doorway is good climbing in its own right and when you get to the roof it seems a bit improbable that it goes at 5a. A move up into the niche gives a chance for a breather and then its stepping out under yet another overhang and aiming for the gap. I found it really scary and although the holds are quite positive you need to shape yourself to get across to the finishing jugs. I just made it but hanging off the final jug dangling 150ft up is amazing.

Joe through the crux on Trapeze

Joe had to go one better by cutting loose with his feet, but his grin gave away how much he enjoyed himself, even if he looked thoroughly knackered.

Dave on Flat Top

Back at the bags with Nick and Chris still on Paragon and Dave leading Flat Top we decided on a last route so Joe had a go on the fierce but short Trapeze. Its all packed into two crux’s, but with the big No 4 Camelot on board Joe could protect the top offwidth crack. I like the route, but I imagine Pete doesnt having given it his best but on this occasion been defeated. I know the feeling well. Another day then.

As usual 7 hours passed like 7 minutes and we were late returning, but it was the culmination of another great adventure on the Cornish Coast and we have many more planned.

It’s raining frogs and fruitbats

8th March 2013

Trewellard – Goldsworthy Buttress

Return of the Lemming – VS 4c – Lead
Bright Morning – V Diff – Lead (P2)
Sea Fever – Diff/Severe 4b – Second

Trewellard was looking a little different from the last time Dave and I climbed here. On that day the wind was about 40mph and it was pretty grey. This time, sunshine and good conditions.

View towards Bible Wall

That said, it is not the most attractive of venues unless you like industrial backdrops of broken ground, churned earth and arsenic. Yes arsenic, something worth keeping in mind – if it’s green dont touch it, lick it or dip your lunch in it cos it’ll probably kill you!

Belay Platform – Wide Ledge

A number of places show the vivid green streaks seeping out of the cliffs, but Goldsworthy isnt one of them. On this day it was relatively dry and we stuck to the buttress climbs and not the zawn which did look damp. One for another day as there are some cracking looking climbs there.

Pete styling on ROTL

ROTL looks a bit like a cliff which is rotting in front of your eyes. Similar to Coastguard Cliffs actually. The first pitch looks bold and pro (at least good pro) is difficult to find. I’m not sure I would have wanted to fall on half the gear I placed and there is a run out section in the middle. But, it is laced with small foot placements and little sharp edged holds. They look brittle but I found then solid and none snapped on me.

Chris leading P1 ROTL

All the above taken into account, the first pitch is great. Balancy, technical and just good fun. The other two match up well. Pitch two’s overhang is committing but well protected and Pitch 3 has a hard start and a camera friendly finish.

Top Pitch of ROTL

It was getting late when we all finished, but we had enough time to get another climb in. Chris and Tom went for Bright Morning, a climb Dave had led earlier. A difficult V Diff is the best way to describe it. Probably more towards Severe actually. Dave took Joe and myself for a wander onto the seaward face of the buttress where booming surf greeted us and a very wet chimney on Double Take.

Booming Surf below the belay on Sea Fever/Double Take

Dave wisely left this alone but contrived a new line between the Diff of Sea Fever and Double Take which was probably at around Severe 4b. A tricky mantel into a sparsely protected groove made for a good pitch. Well done to Dave for climbing this blind effectively. Maybe its worth listing as a new route.

Dave new routing

I finished on the second pitch of Bright Morning, an excellent pitch in its own right. Meanwhile Joe went off soloing the arete, probably looking for something hard to get stuck into.

P2 of Bright Morning

We were greeted by persistent rain as we packed up (perfect timing) which made the journey back interesting with strange animals flying past the van and the road littered with suicidal frogs.

View back to Pendeen

Cant wait to get back a do the traverse Chain Link in the zawn. looks scary and classic!

 

 

Days of the week.

22nd February 2013

Sennen
Sunday and Monday Face

Dexter – VS 4c – Second
Slim – VS 5a – Lead
Vertical Crack – VS 4c – Second

OK. The thin snow drifting around when we arrived gave a clue to the days conditions. Cold. And i therefore offered myself some advice. Stick to climbs with big holds and stay away from finger routes.

Looking across Monday Face with Dave on CWD.

It’s a shame I cant follow my own logic then. But over confidence will do that to you forcing a disregard for the blindingly obvious. Your hands are going to get cold!

Tom leading the tough bottom crack of Church Window Direct

Tom and Dave kicked things off with an attempt on Church Window, Tom preferring the direct and harder start to the traditional flop onto the high shelf. For an initial pitch it is a pumpy start, but Tom made good work of it, finishing via the corner in the alter niche.

Chis hangin.. on Dexter

Meanwhile Chris was leading the tricky and exposed Dexter. This route is all about the top traverse and finish. Moving off the pinnacle at the top of the crack you’re faced with a swing out onto the main face using the rising flake as a rail. It feels very bold, but not as bold as the step up at the end. That’s special. All in all a great lead by Chris in the conditions.

Pete on Dexter.

Pete found it difficult, but to his credit he stuck at it and made it through. I also found it exposed. The conditions meant your hands felt cold and it was difficult to trust your grip at times.

Chris about to go for the top move on Dexter.

Which is why it was all the more surprising that I chose a tasty finger crack  Slim for my lead… which proceeded to remind me that I was not as good as I thought I was. More of a mental state though, than a lack of physical ability. Four attempts later I finally cleared the early 5a move and the remainder of the climb was stright forward. Looks like I’ll have to come back and repeat this one.

Dave on the top cracks of CDW… just after taking to the air.

Both Dave and Chris lead vertical crack on this day. It’s been upgraded now to VS which is understandable so Dave has now bagged a VS which is brilliant going for so early in the year. It is well protected so it helps to settle the nerves, but is still technically a challenge.

Tom on CWD.

The same can be said for the top section of Church Window Direct, although Dave decided to put in some air time after peeling off on the tough top moves. CWD is one of my favorite climbs at Sennen. I want to give it another go next time we’re back.

Dave looking relaxed on CWD. He shouldnt have been???

Hopefully things will now warm up for the rest of the year. I’m definitely looking forward to summer.

Seal Dogging

8th February 2013

Carn Barra (Carn Barra)

Super Crack – VS 4c – Lead
Angel City – Severe 4b – Lead

It had been a few weeks since our little band of climbers had been out on the cliffs so to say we were a bit excitable was an understatement. Choice of venue came down to getting out of the northerly wind and the midday high tide – Carn Barra fitted the bill and the Upper Tier was an area we hadnt yet explored. Turned out to be a good decision.

The Cornish Sea Cliffs are just starting to come alive with spring. Lots of new green shoots, a bye product of all this rain. Even the Seals were getting amorous in the surf below us.

The Upper Tier at Carn Barra is reminiscent of Bosi. Perched above the main area it doesnt take long before ou get a real sense of height and exposure. Its a bit gritty, probably from lack of climbers and you have to be wary of brittle holds in places, but on the whole its top stuff.

Dave sets the belay scene.

Tom and Chris were the first to do battle. Tom on the excellent Chicken Head Crack, a V Diff which travels up to the right of Great Central Chimney and Chris on Super Crack, the aptly named route to the left of GCC.

Super Crack was a real surprise. The first pitch looked a bit disjointed but turned out to be really tricky. Fingery wall climbing becomes a groove/crack which is difficult to get established in. Some testing moves here leads to a ledge below the start of the second pitch.

Pete entering the tricky groove/crack on pitch one of Super Crack

From here you get a grandstand view of the top crack which is as good as it looks. I found it tough, but with a two month layoff  this shouldnt have been unexpected. Really sustained and exposed. It’s just brilliant. Pete found it a good early season test as well, a proper bicep buster, especially negotiating the early overhang.

Tom and Dave made short work of their route, a statement of intent for the rest of the year I think with both of them leading confidently. Thats why they went looking for something a bit more challenging and ended up on Taurus the Second. Despite snapping holds and a run out at the top of the tower, they both seemed to enjoy this one. One I now have marked down for the future.

Tom at the top of Chicken Head Crack

Chris, Pete and I randomly chose Angel City, mainly cos we were a bit cold. Turned out to be the right choice. I led the first pitch in what was a reversal of SC. The first pitch would be very bold for a Severe if led as per the guide. There is a dirty crack on the left but more importantly the face is fingery and difficult. I used the corner to balance things out and it felt more reasonable.

Pitch two was the main event though. The huge Sharks Fin of rock dominates the face, but the route actually follows the crack leading right up the wall. However its hard to ignore the lump of rock when you’re on the route as its so tempting to climb. As a belayer its hard to ignore the fact you are stood underneath a mass of rock that has no right to still be attached to the cliff. It looks completely undercut and precarious. So Pete and I moved the belay around the corner like the cowards we are. At least Chris would be on top of the block if it came off.

Chris testing out the fin on Angel City

As the sun set we wandered away feeling pleased with ourselves. A good start to 2013 and the discovery of a venue we’ll be back at shortly.

One does not simply……

7th December 2012

Dewerstone Woods

Armada – HS 4b – Lead
Raven Face – V Diff – Second

Another damp outing to Dewerstone brought rewards which seemed unlikely on the drive in. The 25-30 mph winds were the main reason for picking the shelter of the woods and this proved a good call as we spent the day watching the clouds scud over the top of the valley.

The damp woods

It was a bit wetter than last time and the fact Id once again forgotten my climbing shoes meant choosing a climb took a bit of thought. In the end Tom and I opted for Armada, a HS which boasted a tough top chimney. I needed to practice chimneys and big boots meant it was a good opportunity.

Dave checking out P2 of Fly on the Wall

Dave and Chris set up for Fly on the Wall. By all accounts Dave found this one a proper challenge due to the quality of pro. As I remembered it the pro was OK, but the loose rock gives the impression of instability which messes with your mind.

or does one?

Not that my mental state was much better. I hate chimneys! and they hate me. So it was time to sort things out and Armada was my candidate to do battle with. The crux of Armada actually turned out to be on the first pitch with a committing move past a bulge. The sopping wet rock didnt help, especially as the key hold was dripping. Still, it made it exciting.

Ian just before the crux of Armada

The chimney proved to be less difficult, but required a complete absence of elegance in its negotiation. I used all parts of my body to thrutch up the narrow gap and bizarly actually enjoyed myself in doing so. I think with rock shoes and a bit of dry it would be a lot easier proposition, but beggars cant be choosers.

The narrow top crack of Armada

We all met up above FOTW and Dave led the V Diff Raven Face. A tricky rock over onto a slab is the main feature of this climb. Quite difficult for a V Diff imo, but after our expoits on the previous climbs it seemed OK.

Dave leading Raven Face

We managed to catch Tom before he could throw himself off the top of the crag, so it ended well. A casual stroll out through the now quiet and stunning woods capped a great day out and there was just enough time for everyone to take the piss out of me a little more for leaving my climbing shoes behind… again!