Tag Archives: Grindeer

Failure Friday

19th Feb 2015

Carn Boel (Upper)

The Drum – HVS 5b – Lead (dnf) then TR
Grindeer – E2 5B – TR
Drifters – E1 5c – Retrieve gear (and some sneaky practicing)

We made this day a real cack handed ordeal. One we should have driven to Lands End and not walked all the way from Porthgwarra and two, we should have recognised a series of sandbags when we arrived!

Cool lefty
Cool lefty

It was though a terrific day, with lots of hard climbing and some really challenging routes. I started the day trying to lead The Drum. An excellent HVS running up a crack line on the left of the main face. From the ground it looks innocuous and well protected. It’s neither.

Carn Boel from the South
Carn Boel from the South

I havnt felt so pumped for ages. A proper test of my ability to keep hanging on. Placing gear was strenuous, climbing was strenuous, staying still was strenuous (you get the idea). I felt like Popeye by time I eventually succumbed and slumped into my gear. It was all a matter of mental state.

Tom on the crux of the Drum
Tom on the crux of the Drum

By time I reached the crux I was pumped and couldnt find any gear. I knew in my mind that once I committed there was no going back and it looked poor for gear. This was actually an accurate forecast as it was. For HVS it is remarkably bold. I think it would be E1 in most peoples books. Definitely 5b though.

Pulling onto the main slab
Pulling onto the main slab

So all pumped up I tried again on the top rope and this time went straight through. Of course without having to place gear. One I will try again maybe later in the season.

Joe on Grindeer
Joe on Grindeer

Meanwhile Joe was having his own epic on Drifters. Another one where gear is hard to come by and the climbing suprisingly dificult. It did for Joe on this occasion (unusually), but I expect he will be back shortly to tame it.

The tricky moves onto the main wall
The tricky moves onto the main wall

We all (Tom, Dave, Joe and I) had a go on the E2, which actually proved to be OK. Tough again with some amazing moves into the vertical crack, but manageable.

Me on Grindeer
Me on Grindeer

This spot is great for a winters days climbing. Above the sea, sheltered with great views. We were lucky to get this on this day as the weather came in with a vengance on the walk back.

Shame Dave and Tom chose to take the long walk to the car. Pay attention!!!!