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Slaying old memories

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Pen Olver

Bilsons Fowl Play – V Diff – Lead

Let Her Children Play – VS 4b – Lead

So we welcomed a new member of the team in Piers who joined us for the first time. About time we had some new stock, as a few are getting a bit long in the tooth and broken.

I had in mind a bit of exploration on the far tip of the Lizard at Green Lane Cliff. This sits below the Coast Guard hut and seemed to have a few climbs in the V Diff to HVS range. As it turned out the area was a bit disappointing, but to be fair the weather meant it was seeping a lot and we definitely didn’t see it in its best condition. So its wait until its drier and onto Pen Olver to re-visit a few old acquaintances.

Initial exploration of Green Lane Cliff

One of the most tense parts of climbing at PO is the down climb. It all slopes away and feels a bit exposed, so for Piers it was an eye opener. But the climbing is great and the two we picked were classics. Bilsons Fowl Play is a solid V Diff into a steep corner, but LHCP is a different beast altogether. It has a number of sections; a mantleshelf into the initial crack, a very steep ( almost overhanging flake crack section. An exposed traverse and a final technical ramp. Combined it makes for an excellent route. Pro’s not bad but hard to place sometimes and the holds in general are solid and big.

Looking down Bilsons Foul Play

More importantly, Pen Olver can make a grey day like this was a fantastic outing. That and climbing with mates of course. Dave and Tom finished off their route on the main slab in the dark, so it was a walk out as night set, feeling weary but content.

Slightly dark as we left

Its a shame we missed the porpoises that the Coastguard lady told us about. Otherwise it would have been even better 🙂

  • Slightly dark as we left
  • Looking down Bilsons Foul Play
  • Initial exploration of Green Lane Cliff
  • The lighthouse helped the walk back
  • Not a lot for the belay on Let Her Children Play

Climbing

Sea Breeze

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25th May 2012

Pen Olver

Blind Pew – V Diff – Second
Great Slanting – V Diff – Second
Bilsons Foul Play – V Diff – Second
Mule – HVS 5a – Lead

Probably the trickiest part of climbing at Pen Olver is finding your way there and down to the base of the crag. If you approach past the Housel Bay Hotel its not obvious where the climbing is. The best bet is to head for the end of the headland and when you are about 100yards away head down to the edge on what is a small rocky outcrop.

Pen Olver in all its glory.

This soon turns into a more substantial piece of rock and unlikely as it seems at the time if you keep heading down you eventually reach the top of a narrow and exposed descent ramp. Good luck in finding it, but ultimately it is worth it.

The weather being what it is in Cornwall decided to go from cool to baking overnight which meant we were scratching our heads thinking of a venue which wasnt going to overheat. Pen Olver matched up nicely.

Why me? I could be at home working, but no, you make me come climbing.....

Its a great venue and we spent the day on the main ledge giving access to the Pen Olver Slab and the climbs on the Western sector. With Tom and Dave eager to get some more leading in we started on Great Slanting, a tremendous climb with a really open finish. Described as steady, this is a good description requiring Dave to work hard for pro. Probably the most technical of the V Diffs we climbed this day.

Dave on the early stages of Great Slanting

Dave high on Great Slanting

Tom moved onto Blind Pew which carves a way straight up the middle of the slab. This one saves its crux for the last third with some exposed climbing on a vertical niche. The pro too gets harder to place the higher you get. Its a great line and deserves stars.

Tom moving up Blind Pew.

Tom on the crux of Blind Pew

I had been eyeing up ‘Mule’ an HVS between the two. This turned out to have a well protected, but pumpy start and a poorly protected but technical finish. A bit of everything really which made it really enjoyable. I was quite suprised at how good it was, so finished it with a big smile.

Dave on the top and poorly protected slab of Mule

Last of all was Bilsons Foul Play. As the tide had swamped the main platform, this was an obvious choice. A good climb, steep and following a distinct chimney, but probably not as good as the two main face climbs.

Dave leading Bilson's Foul Play

Still, you cant complain when you’ve had sunshine and fantastics views all day and the climbing has matched up. A brilliant day out in a beautiful part of Cornwall.