Luckey Tor | The Magik Rock

2nd November 2018

Luckey Tor

Eagles Nest – Severe 4a – Lead
Original Route – Severe 4a -Lead

Sat on the ledge at the top of Eagles Nest, Pete and I reflected on what it means to be able to enjoy the opportunity for a bit of solitude and time away from the usual influences of everyday life. I know that there are people who go to extremes to capture moments like this, but here in our own backyard is a little bit of paradise.

It’s not good to gloat, but sometimes it’s so nice to realise that you’ve captured a moment in time which only you (and a few close mates) are privy to. Staring out across the canopy of trees towards the dart Pete and I, for a while, were the only people enjoying one of the most beautiful views in Devon (Dave and Tom were battling up an adjacent climb). It was also nice to be able to completely relax. Another thing our culture ensures is in in short supply.

Enough of the eulogising. The walk in and out of Luckey Tor is nothing short of breathtaking. Moss covered boulders; twisted tree trunks and roots; a rock strewn river and an umbrella of trees accompanies you to a hidden gem of a crag. Tom and I had been here a few times before, but it was Dave and Petes first time. The video clip says it all!

The four of us concentrated on two severe’s for the day, but both were tough for the grade and also very good for the grade. Eagles Nest is all about the final ‘out there’ move through the V cleft, whereas Original Route has a gnarly traverse (poorly protected on the lead). They made for some real entertainment on this day.

Pete jammed in approaching the crux on Eagles Nest

Most importantly was the return of Pete, following his retirement. Great to have him along for the day. A real return to a fun day out. Dave and Tom seemed to have things wired as well, with two good leads. Got to love these Dartmoor sandbags 🙂

2nd October 2014
Luckey Tor (aka Eagle Rock)

Ivy Wall – VS 4c – Lead (dnf)
Right Hand Chimney – V Diff – Second
Black Jam Crack – VS 4c – Lead

I returned to Luckey Tor full of confidence. It had been many years since Ivy Wall kicked my arse resulting in the biggest fall I’ve had to date. This time I knew it was my turn to get the glory.

After some iffy navigating on my part, we arrived at Dartmeet (the real one this time) and set off on the quite stunning walk in, down the bank of the Dart. Having had our lives affirmed thoroughly, we wandered into the clearing and shared the rest of the day with two ponies in the clearing.

So, onto Ivy Wall. It looked easier than last time, although I noticed that the convenient chockstone was missing. Still it wouldnt make any difference. Actually it didnt, cos I messed up completely and ended after an hours worth of frustration walking away in disgust.

The problem I have is that I’m not that flexible so squeezing into the niche was not enticing, so I went for the direct start which is pump and strenuous. It was a poor effort, brought on by over confidence. next time hopefully. Tom suffered a similar experience and so we went to the far side of the tor where we found a couple of classics.

Tom’s route was actually graded Diff, but I ca assure potential leaders that there are a couple of difficult moves, one with poor pro. Not Diff, but great climbing that makes you think a lot.

The jam fest of Black Jam Crack was also good. As usual I didnt make it look easy, but I did enjoy squeezing up and making a desperate lunge for the top. I made it… just.