12th December 2009
Sheeps Tor

Omega Crack – V Diff – Lead
Wind Wall – HVS 5a – TR

On a bitter cold day we picked Sheeps Tor because of the very fact it was East facing. This was into the teeth of the wind but meant it would dry much more quickly after weeks of never ending rain.

Being stupid we decided to start on a HS but after I realised I couldnt feel my fingures we abandoned this for a V Diff next door. I knew Omega Crack was a bit of a sandbag at V Diff but I figured I’d be OK as I’d been leading mainly VS’s recently. WRONG. The cold bit and I ended up faffing around for ten minutes trying to get through the crux low down. Disco leg and cramp later I made it to a mid ledge where everything gets easier.

Both Chris and I decided that that was enough of leading for the day. It always helps to be able to have feeling in your peripherals. Having set a top rope we charged at an HVS which proved to be great cos you could keep your hands warm in gloves and then just jump on and climb quick.

Wind Wall is a great climb with a tricky lower section and a committing move through the thin finger crack. Laybacking is the way and it makes for a really fun climb although the upper section is akward.

I think we’ll be looking for somewhere a bit more sheltered next time but it was still good to be out on rock after so long out because of the rain.