Ivy Wall – VS 4c – Lead (dnf) Right Hand Chimney – V Diff – Second Black Jam Crack – VS 4c – Lead
I returned to Luckey Tor full of confidence. It had been many years since Ivy Wall kicked my arse resulting in the biggest fall I’ve had to date. This time I knew it was my turn to get the glory.
Meadows on the walk in
After some iffy navigating on my part, we arrived at Dartmeet (the real one this time) and set off on the quite stunning walk in, down the bank of the Dart. Having had our lives affirmed thoroughly, we wandered into the clearing and shared the rest of the day with two ponies in the clearing.
One of the more beautiful venues
So, onto Ivy Wall. It looked easier than last time, although I noticed that the convenient chockstone was missing. Still it wouldnt make any difference. Actually it didnt, cos I messed up completely and ended after an hours worth of frustration walking away in disgust.
The arete of the The Eyrie
The problem I have is that I’m not that flexible so squeezing into the niche was not enticing, so I went for the direct start which is pump and strenuous. It was a poor effort, brought on by over confidence. next time hopefully. Tom suffered a similar experience and so we went to the far side of the tor where we found a couple of classics.
Tom on Right Hand Chimney
Tom’s route was actually graded Diff, but I ca assure potential leaders that there are a couple of difficult moves, one with poor pro. Not Diff, but great climbing that makes you think a lot.
Black Jam Crack
The jam fest of Black Jam Crack was also good. As usual I didnt make it look easy, but I did enjoy squeezing up and making a desperate lunge for the top. I made it… just.
Stunning
And so ended another brilliant journey into Dartmoor. Must return here next summer and camp. A swim in the river beckons!
The intention had been to find ‘Cave Wall Traverse’, described as isolated in the cc book. It turned out to be not just isolated but illusive as well.
Looking across at Indian Buttress – Line of Indian Country
Having been down to South C Walls on a previous occasion and experienced the nightmare of being caught out on an exposed , loose and very steep descent I fortunately knew about the hidden entry point to the gully. This is still a bit loose but considerably more amenable than the alternative.( Remember to head out towards the seaward face and then double back into the gully)
Nick and I stared at where the traverse should have been but it gradually became obvious that there has been a large landslip here. It’s hard to say from where we were stood, but the climbing looked considerably harder than HS (the guidebook grade). It lookslike there is a route there, but the description in the guidebook didnt match the face we were looking at. Because it was fairly late, neither of us fancied getting stuck in some hopeless position on the face and then being be-nighted.
A good line up to the shearThe scar on the Traverse
So it was off around the corner to South C Walls. Its a great hidden area, with a useful platform and some good climbs. Nick chose Fine Line and it proved to be true. It looks good from below and the climbing is engaging and exposed. The rock as with the other routes here, is a bit suspect in places, but not enough to ruin a great outing.
With the good weather going on and on, you have to wonder how long we’ll get Gowla this year. At the moment its more likely to be light that stops play.
Looking across at Indian Buttress – Line of Indian Country
Lightning Crack – HVS 5a – Lead The Wormhole – V Diff – Solo
God I hate the guide book comments on Logan Rock. For the most part the Climbers Club Guide is brilliant, but they had an aberation when it came to Logan Rock. Normally I pick up one route and from there everything falls into place. Not here. Everything is so vague you cant even pick one out.
The line of Lightning Crack
Still after a little tantrum early on Pete and I set off on one of our ‘Adventures’! It was so much fun. Abbing in with the tide pushing and swell charging into Castle Boot Zawn. Hanging just above the surge made for an exctiting belay and the initial moves meant dropping down to sea level and quickly moving back up before a wave got you. Speed climbing.
Me posing at the belay in Castle Boot Zawn
We negotiated the initial moves setting up an improvised belay part way up the groove to avoid rope drag. It’s all a little off balance but great climbing. Then the main event. The pull up into Lightning crack through an overhang. Well protected but scary. And after a few good holds its all jamming. My footwork was appalling resulting in me getting stuck lying along with my right foot jammed. After some serious grunting and heavy breathing I managed to untie myself and get some poise back. Then its a balancy mantle onto the face and its all done. Simples… Except I left blood all over the place in my desperate attempt to untangle myself. Its amazing how adrenaline masks the pain of jamming in sharp crystaline cracks. I’m feeling it today though.
Blood Brothers
Meanwhile Dave was finding out about Logan Rocks serious issue with undergrading. The two HS cracks are probably VS and E1. The whole place is full of great potential but a lot of it is hard.
Dave wondering how an HS can be so hard!
The end of the day saw Tom and Dave working some of the hard routes on the short face in the main bay (Crack 1 and 2 area). Pete and I undertook some caving finding a bizarre route which worked its way from the bottom to the top via hollows between jammed boulders and narrow gulleys and chimneys. Probably not a new route but I call it ‘The Wormhole’ and grade it V Diff just because its so f@#!k#$g awkward and tight. Pete is coming along great guns and his confidence is soring. We both solo’d the whole route. Never high, but committing all the same. More fun than chasing cats!
Climbing or Caving?
The Logan Rock Inn provided a fitting end to an amazing day in a stunning breath taking location. How can you not feel happy when you have this on your doorstep.
Lying Eyes – Severe 4a – Lead The Womb Tomb – Severe 4a – Second The Giant Carrot – E1 5b – Lead Sesame Street – V Diff (Ha-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha………!! ) – Second
Before we even got to Pen Olver I knew I would end up preoccupied with The Giant Carrot. I’d checked it out on our previous visit but didnt have the nerve to do it. This time I thought I’d better give it closer attention.
Pen Olver was looking its best. Calm seas. light winds and a cool temperature. Typical spring day really. Chris and I paired up, with Tom, Dave and Pete in the triumvate. I suspect Pete felt that Dave and Tom might give him an easier time of it so he could rest his damaged leg. I think maybe he was wrong here as Dave set off on the brilliant but tricky ‘The Peoples Queen’. Pete who has been climbing superbly recently had time to squeeze in an ascent of Lying Eyes, my first lead of the day as well. No rest for the …..
Lying Eyes is short but OK. A good warm up route and it gets you to the top of the pinnacle which is always a treat. Looking across at Dave fighting his way up TPQ ,I think Chris and I had the easier option but Dave despatched yet another VS to add to his growing list.
Chris then subjected himself to a bit of ‘trollism’ as he negotiated the fantastic ‘ The Womb Tomb’. Anyone who goes to Pen Olver should do this climb. It is excellent. The final exposed traverse just caps off what is a truly different experience form most climbs. And the famous cave painting is still there. Or is it a fake??
So onto my main event. Or would it be? From below I thought I had this one sussed.But once on it, it becomes a different beast. Not sure I agree that there are small wires to be had on the traverse. I placed two in what appeared to be good slots, only for one of them to shatter when Chris removed it. A crucial cam in the face settled my nerves and I was away. It was scary, but scary good. A few difficult moves later I was sucking in air on the arete and feeling decidedly sick. Way too much adrenaline. But what a buzz. I was soooo pleased to get this one, especially after making a couple of false starts.
The adrenaline wasnt finished for the day though. Chris was scratting around for a lead wanting something around HS but not finding anything. So he settled for a really good looking line called Sesame Street. Given V Diff in the book. V Diff My Arse!! I always trot out the saying that if it looks hard from the ground, it is hard.
Chris found this out, battling up the route and getting a real shock at its difficulty. Looks like he got his VS, because I rekon this was the more appropriate grade. It made for a fitting end to what was a great day out. Tom spent a lot of the afternoon racking up leads on the Main Face with Pete. Looks like Pete might get his 60 after all.
It’s not often that you can take a V Diff and turn it into an epic, but if you plan carefully you can do it. What you need initially is a slightly optimistic view of the weather conditions. Then add in low cloud which shrouds the Tor you have specifically picked out and covers everything in a layer of dew. Make sure it isnt often climbed so that the climb you’ve picked is out of condition and covered in mould and moss. Add in some wind, cool temperatures and a venue which requires delicate footwork on sloping rock and you’ve got it.
V Diff going on E1. Even the simplest move seemed daunting. Every time Dave and I found a good hold it was full of a pool of water. It made what could have been a dull day into a real adventure and we both loved it. Hawk’s Tor is always moody when the whether closes in. Its hidden away and remote and on this day all we could hear was the cows in the fields below moaning about the soggy ground. There’s something about being away from it all that is quite magical. One V Diff later and Dave and I left, two very happy individuals at one with our world.
Return of the Lemming – VS 4c – Lead Bright Morning – V Diff – Lead (P2) Sea Fever – Diff/Severe 4b – Second
Trewellard was looking a little different from the last time Dave and I climbed here. On that day the wind was about 40mph and it was pretty grey. This time, sunshine and good conditions.
View towards Bible Wall
That said, it is not the most attractive of venues unless you like industrial backdrops of broken ground, churned earth and arsenic. Yes arsenic, something worth keeping in mind – if it’s green dont touch it, lick it or dip your lunch in it cos it’ll probably kill you!
Belay Platform – Wide Ledge
A number of places show the vivid green streaks seeping out of the cliffs, but Goldsworthy isnt one of them. On this day it was relatively dry and we stuck to the buttress climbs and not the zawn which did look damp. One for another day as there are some cracking looking climbs there.
Pete styling on ROTL
ROTL looks a bit like a cliff which is rotting in front of your eyes. Similar to Coastguard Cliffs actually. The first pitch looks bold and pro (at least good pro) is difficult to find. I’m not sure I would have wanted to fall on half the gear I placed and there is a run out section in the middle. But, it is laced with small foot placements and little sharp edged holds. They look brittle but I found then solid and none snapped on me.
Chris leading P1 ROTL
All the above taken into account, the first pitch is great. Balancy, technical and just good fun. The other two match up well. Pitch two’s overhang is committing but well protected and Pitch 3 has a hard start and a camera friendly finish.
Top Pitch of ROTL
It was getting late when we all finished, but we had enough time to get another climb in. Chris and Tom went for Bright Morning, a climb Dave had led earlier. A difficult V Diff is the best way to describe it. Probably more towards Severe actually. Dave took Joe and myself for a wander onto the seaward face of the buttress where booming surf greeted us and a very wet chimney on Double Take.
Booming Surf below the belay on Sea Fever/Double Take
Dave wisely left this alone but contrived a new line between the Diff of Sea Fever and Double Take which was probably at around Severe 4b. A tricky mantel into a sparsely protected groove made for a good pitch. Well done to Dave for climbing this blind effectively. Maybe its worth listing as a new route.
Dave new routing
I finished on the second pitch of Bright Morning, an excellent pitch in its own right. Meanwhile Joe went off soloing the arete, probably looking for something hard to get stuck into.
P2 of Bright Morning
We were greeted by persistent rain as we packed up (perfect timing) which made the journey back interesting with strange animals flying past the van and the road littered with suicidal frogs.
View back to Pendeen
Cant wait to get back a do the traverse Chain Link in the zawn. looks scary and classic!
Top Pitch of ROTL
Belay Platform – Wide Ledge
Relaxed Dave on Bright Morning
Not that way, this way
Pete styling on ROTL
Top of P1 ROTL
Chris leading P1 ROTL
P2 of Bright Morning
P1 Belay ROTL
Final exposed move on Bright Morning
Bright Morning top out
Pete finished P1 ROTL
P3 ROTL – Very camera friendly
View back to Pendeen
View towards Bible Wall
Booming Surf below the belay on Sea Fever/Double Take
Armada – HS 4b – Lead Raven Face – V Diff – Second
Another damp outing to Dewerstone brought rewards which seemed unlikely on the drive in. The 25-30 mph winds were the main reason for picking the shelter of the woods and this proved a good call as we spent the day watching the clouds scud over the top of the valley.
The damp woods
It was a bit wetter than last time and the fact Id once again forgotten my climbing shoes meant choosing a climb took a bit of thought. In the end Tom and I opted for Armada, a HS which boasted a tough top chimney. I needed to practice chimneys and big boots meant it was a good opportunity.
Dave checking out P2 of Fly on the Wall
Dave and Chris set up for Fly on the Wall. By all accounts Dave found this one a proper challenge due to the quality of pro. As I remembered it the pro was OK, but the loose rock gives the impression of instability which messes with your mind.
or does one?
Not that my mental state was much better. I hate chimneys! and they hate me. So it was time to sort things out and Armada was my candidate to do battle with. The crux of Armada actually turned out to be on the first pitch with a committing move past a bulge. The sopping wet rock didnt help, especially as the key hold was dripping. Still, it made it exciting.
Ian just before the crux of Armada
The chimney proved to be less difficult, but required a complete absence of elegance in its negotiation. I used all parts of my body to thrutch up the narrow gap and bizarly actually enjoyed myself in doing so. I think with rock shoes and a bit of dry it would be a lot easier proposition, but beggars cant be choosers.
The narrow top crack of Armada
We all met up above FOTW and Dave led the V Diff Raven Face. A tricky rock over onto a slab is the main feature of this climb. Quite difficult for a V Diff imo, but after our expoits on the previous climbs it seemed OK.
Dave leading Raven Face
We managed to catch Tom before he could throw himself off the top of the crag, so it ended well. A casual stroll out through the now quiet and stunning woods capped a great day out and there was just enough time for everyone to take the piss out of me a little more for leaving my climbing shoes behind… again!
The damp woods
Dave about to set off on Fly on the Wall
Dave checking out P2 of Fly on the Wall
Dave traversing under the overhang on Fly on the Wall
Fly on the Wall – HS 4b – Lead Needle Arete – V Diff – Second
Toms firm belief that he would could to a bad end on his lead was founded in the good old Magpie superstition. Not that I’m immune from it; I too wave/salute Magpie’s when I see them, but Tom extended this a bit further than I normally do.
For all the fact a single Magpie signifies bad luck, it confined itself to our drive home where we ended up stuck in two road blockages due to accidents which made for a late day. The day itself was great, with The Dewerstone glowing gold in its autumn colours and the upper buttresses drying quickly making for good climbing.
View across to Fly on the Wall P2
I hadnt even heard of Fly on the Wall, but as we arrived at Raven Buttress it seemed the obvious route to pick. The first pitch is fine with a straight forward crack to negotiate, but for me its the second pitch which makes the route. Exposed with positive holds and reasonable pro it traverses under an overhang to a pumpy pull up into a finishing groove. Great fun!
Pitch 1 Needle Arete
Then it was Tom’s turn with all his superstitious baggage in tow. Needle Arete is a superb V Diff. We started on pitch two because of the damp, but this culminates in a strenuous pull up through a niche to a tree belay.
Damn Magpies!!
The next pitch initially looks unlikely at the grade. A right to left rising crack cuts across a steep and quite blank looking wall. For Tom this was the crux. However with good pro in, he cruised to the arete and the exposed finishing moves. Tom 1 – Magpie 0.
Tom completes the exposed top move on Needle Arete
As Fridays seem to be the best day for weather in 2012 we shouldnt have been suprised it held off right up to the point we left. Strange that. For such a wet year, Friday has proved as reliable as a clock for turning out dry. Lets hope it continues.
Tom completes the exposed top move on Needle Arete
Moaning Minnie – V Diff – Lead Strake – HS 4b – Top Rope Coiled Stick – HVS 5a – Lead Eternitys Few – VS 5a – Second
Stood on the gearing up platform shortly after our arrival it was hard to imagine we would be doing anything but heading for the Logan Rock Inn for a pint. Contrary to the forecast, there was drizzle and it was fairly persistant.
The traverse in.
I’ve never been one for giving up and so we decided to make our way over to the base of the lower tier climbs. This is a good warm up in its own right and in the wet with a bit of swell added, there was a bit of spice in the traverse.
Ian starts out on Moaning Minnie.
Erring on the side of caution Dave and I picked a Diff and V Diff respectively. Strangely, by time we got to the top the rain had stopped and the granite was drying fast. The rain didnt detract from Moaning Minnies qualities. Its a V Diff with good variety and it has a sting in the middle in the form of a narrow, skewed ramp. Climbing this with style is a major challenge as everything slopes the wrong way…. tricky.
Joe 'discovering' the narrow off balance ramp on Moaning Minnie
Dave meanwhile was making his way up Kellys Eye, the distinctive channel which bisects the main climbing area. So we all met at the middle tier platform. This gave Tom, Chris, Joe and Dave a chance to worm their way up Sloe Slab, the very different route with a crawl to finish. Having already done this I top rope Strake. I almost wish I hadnt. Its a bit grim, very overgrown and dirty. Without all the muck it might be a good route, but in this condition its best avoided.
The difficult start to Sloe Slab
Now Coiled Stick is very different. It has its moments with regard to dirt and moss, particularly on the middle crack, but overall its a great route. I cant deny that the middle section spooked me a bit. The pro would probably have been OK if the crack wasnt full of soil and weeds. Trying my best not to just rip everything out, I managed to eke out a few poor placements, but at no time did I think ‘That’s a bomber’. But the climbing is not hard at this point, just balancey.
The tricky middle crack
The top crack is a different proposition. Here the pro is good but the climbing much tougher as power starts to come into play. The damp conditions didnt help, but to be fair it was more a case of pushing on and getting established in the crack. Once I’d done this things became more manageable. Really pleased I did this one.
Ian on the tough top crack of Coiled Stick
Meanwhile Chris was on Porcupine. Given VS it is soft at the grade, but this doesnt detract from the quality of the climb. A great route which Dave and Tom thoroughly enjoyed as well.
Chris on the top section of Porcupine
We had time for another route (just) so Dave set off on the brilliant Iron Bells while Joe tackled the hard start on Eternitys Few. I knew Dave was in for a treat, but Joe’s route turned out to be good as well. The crux is a bold move about 6-7 metres up, probably why it is given 5a. It takes some working out and the slippy moss doesnt inspire you with confidence. A good lead by Joe.
Dave on Iron Bells.
Having to make our way back to the gearing up ledge, we ended up scattering across the crag. probably not a good idea as I spied Dave inching his way up what looked like hard territory. Joe needed a bit of help by Dave and Tom as he got stuck half way up a chimney. Maybe next time we’ll stick together. Chris and I traversed back on the lower slabs, back roping a dodgey wet decent crack and following the traverse back. main thing is we all arrived back safe just as we lost the light and trudged back to Penberth.
If you’d said the day would turn out this well at the start I wouldnt have believed you. Another stolen moment on Cornish granite.
Ian on the tough top crack of Coiled Stick
Dave on Iron Bells.
The traverse in.
Ian starts out on Moaning Minnie.
Dave on Kellys Eye
Joe ‘discovering’ the narrow off balance ramp on Moaning Minnie
Dave and Joe on the bottom tier
Joe completes Moaning Minnie
The difficult start to Sloe Slab
Chris on Sloe Slab
Chris contemplating the squeeze
Chris disappears into the ‘hole’ on Sloe Slab
The belay above Sloe Slab
Chris on the top section of Porcupine
The tricky middle crack
Chris high on Porcupine as Ian gets nervous on Coiled Stick
Iron Bells – HS 4b – Lead Sloe Slab – V Diff – Lead Porcupine – VS 4c – Lead
Parking is a bit of a problem here although on this day we were lucky enough to be able to park on the campsite. Otherwise its a short walk from Penberth. I doubt that there is a lot in it really.
Our gearing up ledge after a thorny arrival
Pete and I rolled up not really knowing what to expect. I know that when you look at the crag it seems broken and disjointed, but after a couple of attempts we successfully managed to access the base of the cliffs via a very thorny and overgrown path. The next task was to get across to the main climbing area which is done by a series of traverses, a couple of which are quite airy, so you may want to rope up.
The bottom of Iron Bells
We started on Iron Bells, a climb very reminiscent of Anvil Chorus’s second pitch. In fact the crack is thinner, but its not as steep. However it’s a great pitch and loads of fun, especially the overhang which is taken directly on really positive holds. The granite feels grippy, probably a reflection of how little climbing this venue has seen over the years.
Eying up the squeeze on Sloe Slab
Pete and I were then faced with the next problem.To get back down to the lower tier involved some serious jungle bashing which we didnt fancy, so instead we decided to just keep going up. A great choice in fact as Sloe Slab turned out to be loads of fun. One for the rest of the group to have a go at and see if anyone can make the exit through the gap look elegant. Me and Pete failed big time.
Pete demonstrates the slug move
With the weather taking a turn for the worse (the sun had now disappeared and we were frozen) we launched for the top. Some poor route reading by me meant we did a sort of mixed route part of which at least was Porcupine, a VS. I had intended to tackle to enticing thin crack on the left of the upper slab, which would have been HVS but cold hands and impending hypothermia made me decide to just get up there as fast as I could.
Pete on the upper tier (Porcupine?)
So all in all a great venue. Each tier has a number of options all in the V Diff to HVS range and it should be a good return next week when we come back mob handed with a stay on Trevervan camp site thrown in.
The bottom of Iron Bells
Eying up the squeeze on Sloe Slab
Top of Sloe Slab
The squeeze
Pete demonstrates the slug move
The view from the upper tier
Why it never rains on a Friday!
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