11th July 2014

Hippa Rock

Coitionary Tales – HVS 5 a – Lead
Virgo – VS 4c – Second

I always enjoy a trip to the Culm. This one was full of promise as we were heading for Oldwalls Point. In the end the descent defeated us with a mix of loose shale and thick gorse. As we dropt down the path became less distinct and more treacherous. In the end ignorance and uncertainty got the better of us and we decided to abandon this attempt and head for Hippa Rock instead which according to the guidebook was a straight forward scramble down the point.

Wrong!!! After eventually finding an indistinct path we came to a steep gulley full of loose manky rubble and looking like it was ready to fall down the same chute of a recent landslip. Every step was one of uncertainty and dread for me. I hate loose shit and this really was shit. From then on it was just one more pile of teetering rubble after another.

The climbs though were worth it ( I think). Coitionary Tales is a diagonal crack climb of top quality. Some very thoughtful moves greet the climber and it has a sting in the tale with the crux occurring in the final moves. I loved it.

Dave’s VS was no pushover either. The main body is solid 4c but if you finish it directly the top moves are solid with a very sketchy move onto a smooth slab. 5a+ IMO or harder if you miss the hidden holds. A good lead by Dave who put in some air time as a reward for his efforts.

The tide eventually drove us away and into the jaws of the walk out which was equally as unenjoyable as the walk in. Still it was a beautiful evening and you can’t complain too much when you have great adventure and this was yet another one.